Jump to content

UPDATED WITH RATTLE VIDEO**WHAT is this noise? 2024 Silverado 1500 WT, 5.3

s10dragracer888
 Share

Recommended Posts

s10dragracer888 Enthusiast

s10dragracer888

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Also, the rattle only occurs when the torque converter engages and DFM is active, at low speeds; they’re thinking programming will fix it. Fingers crossed.

Edited by s10dragracer888
  • s10dragracer888 changed the title to UPDATED WITH RATTLE VIDEO**WHAT is this noise? 2024 Silverado 1500 WT, 5.3
  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

newdude
newdude

The most current version of this covers to 2024 - 19-NA-218 1..3   I listened to your video again.  Definitely is engine related.  Lifter not pumping up, broken valve spring, bent push rod. 

newdude
newdude

Ouch.  The rattle issue sucks too but ouch for the engine.  That blows.  

PunchT37
PunchT37

Mine does the same thing since new. `25, 5.3. Goes away when hot.

Posted Images

s10dragracer888 Enthusiast

s10dragracer888

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
On 1/30/2025 at 9:05 PM, Bikerjon said:

I hope everthing gets fixed for you. I have had 3 T1s and have had no problems so far.

 

Knock on wood.

 

 

image000000(2).jpeg

 

Edited by s10dragracer888
s10dragracer888 Enthusiast

s10dragracer888

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 2/1/2025 at 11:12 AM, Dan H 2023 HC said:

I doubt the noise is VB related. At idle the VB isn't doing anything, none of the solenoids are active/cycling.

 

I recently watched a video that, in part, talked about the wildly complex torque converter GM uses with the 10 speed coupled to the engines with AFM/DFM. Here it is and, to me, it's particularly interesting starting at about the 8 minute mark when he describes the "pendulums".  GM 10L80 and Ford 10R80 Torque Converter Operation and Diagnosis

 


 

this is the TCC rattle.

 

the tick was attributed to internal engine damage and scoring on the walls of cylinder 2. Engine replacement on the way.

Bikerjon Enthusiast

Bikerjon

Posted
Posted
On 2/4/2025 at 7:37 PM, s10dragracer888 said:

 

 

image000000(2).jpeg

 

Wow. This thread has gotten so long. Sorry but you have the 5.3 and how many miles on your 2024?

s10dragracer888 Enthusiast

s10dragracer888

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Bikerjon said:

Wow. This thread has gotten so long. Sorry but you have the 5.3 and how many miles on your 2024?

It’s gotten long due to my responses. I try to individually respond to everyone. Just under 600 miles. The number has jumped around in this thread a bit, but I’ve had the truck for 2 weeks. Bought it new. Didn’t confirm mileage until the day of the update with the videos and photo the advisor sent me.

Edited by s10dragracer888
  • 8 months later...
s10dragracer888 Enthusiast

s10dragracer888

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
On 10/12/2025 at 11:58 AM, TrueBlue said:

@s10dragracer888 

Did you get any info after they removed and hopefully tore apart your old engine?

Actually yes. The intermittent scratching noise was deep scoring on the wall of cylinder 2. The “rattle” was a “normal operating condition of the torque converter under light throttle (<8%) during downhill travel.” It’s like the converter is going back and forth between grabbing and being forced in rotation by the transmission. Kinda like the play in a rear differential ring and pinion that’s worn out….

Edited by s10dragracer888
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BIGBOYS
      Doors lock and mirrors fold in while driving

      By BIGBOYS · Posted

      I have a 2015 Silverado and sometimes I can not get in to the truck. I use the key to unlock the driver door. Something is locking the truck when I unlock it, last night I left the truck open and this morning it was locked with the mirrors folded in. This happens while driving so it is now a safety issue. I reach down for the folding button and they open, then they close again.  Any advice, thank you,   Ed
    • Paul8556
      Headlight issue...

      By Paul8556 · Posted

      Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • RyanbabZ71
      Gas Prices

      By RyanbabZ71 · Posted

      Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • William Aldrich
      Bent valve in 2025 GMC Canyon Denali - Requires engine swap at 14K miles

      By William Aldrich · Posted

      NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...