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For those of you not following along in the fantastic "What have you done to your T1 today" thread our newest offering for the T1 is on its way

Finally got my switches installed for aux LED lighting. Have had this dang panel for almost a year.. Details below! GM Switch Guy on FB makes these panels with the exact parts I used, but he wanted over $100 for the panel and switches. I'm too much of a cheap ass for that and enjoy the challenge. This only works if you don't have factory trailer brakes. I ordered the switch bezel from GMpartsdirect (part #22830877), 4wd switch and room for the trailer brake switch. Using a dremel, cut a square hole a bit smaller than what is shown below, then fine tuned it after taking dimensions of the switch bezel. Switches ordered from OTRATTW. High quality stuff! Might swap out the single upper dependent switches to a lower dependent so the text area is tied into the dash illumination. Reason I didn't do it in the first place is they don't have a lower white LED with upper red LED. Rigid Industries Ignite flush mount pods in the rear step cavity are next. Happy with the clean OEM look for less than $60!

Installed a Runva 11000 lb winch on a Rough Country winch plate

It's been a minute since I've posted here but I've definitely been lurking. Unfortunately my first post back isn't anything fun, but maintenance. Last night I finished my thermostat after working in the shop. Took about 15 minutes with 2 sockets, my ratchet and a pair of pliers. Super easy, and with a gallon of coolant it cost around 50 dollars total. Not bad for 91K out of the first unit. ( Part number if interested is 12674639 ) Sent from my SM-G986U1 using Tapatalk

That is why I built this. Out of all the oil changes I do I get a couple of qts every month from what drains out of the bottles after an oil change. I use it in lawn equipment or when I get an old beater that uses oil every 1000 miles. I can add more to it to hold as many qts or jugs as needed. I just stopped at 5.. What I do is let the qts sit on their side over night then dump them on here. That way the oil is on the side and then drains right out and not trying to drip from the bottom of the container.

I am Chinese/Indonesian/Dutch born in Indonesia; family immigrated to Canada for a better world. My Father and mother always warned about communism as Indonesia went through a civil war between communism and democracy, “Killing Fields”. I agree China is getting allot of tech from other countries especially the US/ Canada/UK/ and allot of other countries. It is scary for sure; they are communist and are getting more and more powerful. But I do not think China wants to be a country who take over the world or be dictated to by Russia. They know keeping relations and security with USA and be part of the world will also economically make them more money, or they would be a North Korea kind of place. But with great power they will flex their muscle sometimes like Russia in Eastern Europe and China in the South China Sea. But so, does any other country at sometime in their history. War, I do not think full out war is an option. Every country knows that will be costly and long, the way the world works right now and there are really no guarantees who would win, and past history has tough us all what could happen. Every country have problems and China is far from perfect but we only look at ourselves to see the imperfectness as well. As to the new generations putting their heads in the sand, I agree that they are not able to do any critical thinking and think deeply about the actions or the outcomes of their actions. The youth are too worried about the next great video game or next Netflix show, or even the next Tik Tok post. History may repeat itself and the blind will be ripe for the picking of fascist regimes.

https://www.hindawi.com/journals/ijpr/2012/207532/ By 2010 the figure was 83.6%. The US population is increasingly and overwhelmingly concentrated in metropolitan areas. More than 90 percent of the country’s entire population growth in the last decade occurred within MSAs. This report goes on to say an additional 10% of the population lives in mirocurban defined as cities between 10 and 50K. SO nearly all the US population now lives in a city!!! That is some sad news kiddo's. Within the city is where most of the USA lives now. The new generation doesn't even want to drive nor leave their 20 mile circle. I don't know what to make of this. Long distance ability only matters to the OEM if the people buying are long distance drivers. Am I missing something? They don't make the connection between the hamburger and a cow so how do the make the jump from lithium to child labor and the carbon footprint to mine it? They don't care where the battery is junked. Out of sight is out of mind.

I will do my own oil changes and maintenance until no longer able to.

Got it 99.9% finished sunday. Needs little tweak to the top layer. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

Hey current 2021 SUV owners, How is the interior cabin lighting at night? In the T1 trucks, it's terrible. I was wondering if GM improved this for the SUVs? I haven't been able to see any reviewers talk about this, because they're always reviewing during the daylight. Also, do the vanity mirrors have lights behind the sunshades? Another place GM skimped on the T1 trucks... no lights there, just the mirror. Thanks!

after 2019 covid pandemic, it seems everyone left the city who could afford too, and bought homes in rural areas for back up plans

The other day I took a 65 mile trip to a place and it was 12-14 degrees outside, transmission got to 104-109 degrees. Pretty much what my 2012 truck got to in the cold weather +/- 10 degrees.

Thanks for the reports guys, please keep them coming! With respect to the diesel; no doubt I'd love to drive one, but not sure I want to own one. One diesel related issue outside of warranty and you never get your money back. And the other problem is, they only offer them in expensive trims. GM plays games with their drive trains.

I’d swap trucks.lol

Finally finished installing the Rough Country winch plate as well as the Runva 11000lb winch today

Its a 2 beer job - and who doesnt like day drinkin? Rotella gas truck had a rebate ending up at $9 per 5qt - thats good oil for a hell of a price though normally decent synthetic oil is around $20 per 5g. 50 bones is about standard these days with a free change every 4 changes due to the 2 qts left over after each change... Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Myself and others have noticed and talk about it. We also know it's going to get bad and this country is screwed if people don't pull their heads out of their ass. Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

I don't dispute your comments at all. In fact they are almost exactly as I would have said. The 6.7L Cummins isn't horrible if the enviro stuff falls off but agreed my 2 older 5.9L were so much better. My powerstroke before that was a 7.3L so again, I agree. I have an uncle that had a first gen 2001 GMC DMAX and put nearly 450,000 km on it with some injector issues and some pump problems but his new 2021 Chevy 3500 DMAX seems to be treating him well, minus a bunch of electrical creature comforts that aren't working properly.

Dealers have bulk oil tanks. Unless you are bringing them your own oil (who does that?), they aren’t pouring it out of quart bottles all day and leaving a few drops in each one. Imagine the waste.

For that price he could just get the lt5 tb tho thats what id recommend it would be a gain of 3/8” from stock as opposed to 3/16” with the 91

Today was a good day to do some mods the truck in the shop. 60mph gusts, but the cattle have been fed. Washed the truck, tinted front door windows and a windshield strip, installed matte black in-channel window visors, wired in Boostautoparts, spot to high beam and the all lights on high kits. Replaced the plastic skid plate with the aluminum version on the front, and installed the transfer case skid plate. Took measurements for homemade skid plates for the fuel filter area, def tank and the fuel heater hoses.

I do my own, unless under lease maintenance. Too many people rushing and not doing a diligent job. Well said by many others. Bottomline, sloppy maintenance might lead to a failure that’s your problem, sludge, or overfilling... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Most peeps have no choice but to use a dealer for oil changes as they are too fat and out of shape to do it themselves.

Nicely done! I actually want to do something similar, I like the idea of having some bright flood lights aimed just the way you have yours, I was thinking about setting mine up so they'd be manual just like yours, and come on automatically with either the puddle lights under the mirror, task lights, or backup lights.

I already can not in the winter and I don't think the cow will let me milk her just 6 months of the year. ? Kidding aside; I don't let dealers do anything but unavoidable recalls. I have a trusted and groomed local shop who satisfies my requirements for competence, talent and cost. They are getting harder to find too. Hold on to the ones you can find.

I just put the roll-style cover on my 17 Sierra also. My father has had a Truxedo roll-style tonneau for over 15 years, and other than needing to sew new velcro onto the sides, it's been rock solid. A buddy of mine bought the no-name version from Amazon for less than half the cost of the Truxedo, and he was really happy with it, so I decided to give it a try. I just put on the truck on Tuesday, and I'm mostly satisfied. It's virtually identical to my father's Truxedo, with the only real difference being that the Truxedo has metal pieces where the back of the cover cams into place, and this has plastic. My only real complaint is that I don't feel like the back of the cover comes down quite far enough, so there's not a good seal on the tailgate. I'll have to see if I get any water that leaks in through that spot.

I have a boat that's maybe 4000lbs fully loaded and I get better mileage towing with my 2.7 than I did with my 2017 5.3. I love my 2.7, I'll probably never go back to a 5.3. I get better mileage and I like the drive a lot better. All of that low torque just makes scootin around feel pretty effortless. Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

Agree So why get your panties in a wad. Waste of time.

The biggest they have is a 95mm which is equivalent to the LT5 throttle body. I assume you wouldnt buy an 87mm because thats what comes on the l86. Soler performance 95mm=$335 Gm ac delco 95mm=$195

That sucks. It's amazing how things can get screwed up by "professional" mechanics. Some just don't have any pride in their work.

I'll say again...batteries are for cordless tools and vibrators.

Looks good! I have the same level om my 2020. In fact, I used the same RC level for my 2009 and my 2017. Never had a bit of issue with them.

I really need to get on the ball and get a leveling kit on mine.

Anyone have anymore updates on how theirs is performing? Specifically on a 6.2...been thinking about getting one but still on the fence due to some of the issues raised here.

Ive been a mechanic my whole life, if I can do it myself I do it. That being said, local dealer is 70 something bucks for an oil change + tire rotation. I can't beat that. Plus they have good donuts in the waiting room It's good you got all the old oil out of the pan. Don't kill yourself for it though. Keep in mind, the oil cooler, lines, pump and passages are still mostly full of the old oil. It's near impossible to get a 100% oil change done.

I've got it on my AT4. It took some getting used to. If people are driving like a dick and cutting you off it'll react pretty harshly to establish your distance. In heavy but steady traffic it does a really good job with maintaining your set distance. I usually set my cruise at 75 and provided you already have established yourself behind someone it'll take you from 75 to zero and back without you ever touching the brake pedal.

Just unbolt the master cylinder from the booster and pull the master cylinder forward enough that you can either see behind it, or can get a finger behind the master to see if it is wet inside the booster. The only times I have ever had to bleed brakes at the wheels is when there was a part replaced after one of the flex hoses, or there was a complete brake fluid change to get rid of the water laden brake fluid. Bench bleed the master before changing it, and leave the bleeder lines on (assuming they still supply a bleeder kit with master cylinders these days). Bleeding at the master after installing it is not done the same as the bleeding at the wheels. To bleed the master after installing it, do not pump the pedal, just loosen the lines, have someone press the brake pedal down and then hold the pedal down as you close off the lines. Once closed, wait 10 seconds and have the helper release the pedal. Wait another 10 seconds, then crack the lines loose about a half turn and have the helper push the pedal down slowly, making sure they don't pump the pedal. Close the lines as the fluid comes out, and have the helper release the pedal after you have tightened the lines. It should only require a couple of bleeds to get a good pedal.

I don't have mine installed yet, but it's the same part number as was posted on the 1st page of this post...

Yes understandable. But to totally sell out to electric is unacceptable. When I go to a dealer and I can no longer buy a gas car/truck then I can officially say the world has gone to hell. Call me old school but that is how I feel. We have some Provinces up here in Canada that have already said that car makers have to 2035 to sell only electric. By then though I guess I won't give a ******. What I find so funny though is that the Agricultural industry will still be using diesel to feed the world, The mining Industry will be using diesel to mine all the ****** for electric batteries. Maybe I will have to drive a tractor. hahaha And also scientists are saying that they are not sure how the world in going to dispose of the car batteries when electric cars are damaged or wear out. Plus currently we do not have the electric grid to charge all these electric vehicles. Not well thought out at this point anyways.

Finished up the release version of our automatic heated and cooled seats with auto steering wheel heat

That’s what happens when working from home and eLearning are combined. Art project for school turned into a new corporate logo [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Don't settle on the Safety Package if you cant afford it . Its worth every penny of the $890. Especially the front sensors.

Congrats on getting that extra 10 to 12 ounces of dirty oil out. Not only will you do a better job than the dealer, but you'll know that the job was done right. Being a bit OCD I've most always done my own oil changes, even let the oil drain out overnight when possible to get that last bit of dirty oil out. The bottom of the oil pan is where the sludge collects, just check your oil drain pan after it sets for a bit. Due to age and the creeping miseries (osteoarthritis) it won't be long and I'll be at the mercy of the dealer.

Preview. Coming along nicely. Will need to check fitment when installed. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

You need to disconnect the strut from its upper mount on the frame in order to place the spacer on top of the strut. People see the two bolts on the bottom of the shock where it connects to the lower control arm and assume it's easiest to disconnect the shock from the lower control arm first because those two bolts are more easily accessible than the three nuts on the upper shock mount; that's where they go wrong and can damage a CV or boot. If you remove the bottom bolts where the shock connects to the lower control arm without first disconnecting the shock from the upper shock mount (3 nuts), the shock will often times kick out and you can nick the boot. It is best to remove the three bolts from the upper shock mount, lower the suspension to unload any potential energy, then remove the bottom two bolts holding the shock to the lower control arm. By doing this, the shock is unloaded before removing the two lower bolts and there is no potential energy that can be converted to kinetic energy when the shock is released from its lower mounts.

Looks awesome! Got anymore pictures of it during the day?

I emailed them yesterday and got a email and call from them today. They gave me a different number to call them on, the guy was outstanding to talk to and work with. They said Holley will be sending me a RMA on Monday, I appreciated they didn't try to talk me into swapping for another. I am spooked and can't afford to have problems with my truck. Maybe later when things settle down some Tom

So I didn't have a chance to call Range today, I will do so tomorrow. I remote started my engine today and noticed it had a check engine light. At this point I pulled the unit completely out and have been problem free all day. If my truck goes down I don't make money, I'm a small business owner. Have no interest in any modifications for a while. Tom

Parts list: 84688687 Multi Switch (This is black, may need a different part # depending on your truck interior color) 84487354 Knee Bolster (This is black with push button start, may need a different part # depending on your truck color and start switch) 84497098 Harness 84524205 Battery Cable 84669070F Block Kit Cheapest place i could find is GM Parts outlet. If you create an account, put everything in your shopping cart and leave it for a few hours, you might get a small discount code in your email. Talking less than $10 but something is better than nothing. Edit: Install instructions https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/1314/UI Bulletin 153_wip.pdf?fbclid=IwAR12yV0aVzAvxUd4D6KRhXzRUPlg4lsOH9qewE8nzmZjvBm2KVo3g0NJgto Thread on the forum about them: Here is a good write up i found after i installed...

Ryan B.