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Finally pulled the trigger and gave my 2017 Silverado 1500 Rally 1 another upgrade. Thanks to @pgamboa and White Automotive and Media I was able to retrofit the Denali cluster and new leather steering wheel into my truck.? I was able to achieve controls from the steering wheel to my aftermarket radio as well! Huge plus. ? I'm very happy with how this turned out. ?

You nailed it. As a mechanical engineer (work in aerospace, not automotive so I've never designed a truck chassis), I am almost certain at this point it is a structural issue with the truck that's not "fixable." If it was as simple as a window supplier problem, it would have been fixed by now -- or window suppliers would be broke from GM passing on all of the repair costs. I had a 2020 AT4 that first leaked after 4 months, then leaked a week after the repair. I watched for leaks every single time it rained and I never went to an automatic carwash. It started leaking the week after getting an oil change -- and being on a lift. I unloaded it and went with a TRD Pro Tundra (while going back 20 years in technology). I feel incredibly bad for anyone having to live through this nightmare -- it's uncalled for and not fun. They are really nice trucks and it's a shame -- I don't know how they sleep at night knowing this is happening. The amount of people that have leaking windows and don't even know it will have a mess one day. One thing to keep in mind -- my first leak was in the far corner of the window, behind the trim piece above the seat belt. I shined a light from the driver's side to the passenger's side and saw it. Had I been looking around the slider track, I never would have found it. Some are more obvious than others. I am fully aware that I could be completely wrong, but this has gone on way too long for there not to be a real fix for it yet. And it's clearly not fixed. Good luck to all of you.

I took a trip from NC to NY in December. I typically drive 5-9 mph over the speed limit. Here is a true tank to tank mileage log. In mixed city driving the instrument panel typically shows 22-25 mpg. My best mileage occurs when I drive 55 mph. Very happy.

Maybe a subliminal message about our trucks?

I know it's a 2020 Tahoe and not a T1, but if they could do this to a T1 I would be all over it like stink on ******! PLEASE TAKE MY MONEY! https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=167775574914046

Hey folks, Just wanted to throw out there that I just turned a 1/4 million on my 2014 GMC All Terrain. It's not been without it's issues here and there, but hey......It's still trucking along. I purchased it used with 48k on it back in 2016 and have been selling out of it since. I'm in outside sales and It gets driven plenty. Mainly highway but there are always gravel roads, dirt roads and a good bit of city driving to boot. I changed evaporator coil at some point, brakes and rotors at some point, starter some where in there. Also a transmission was replaced around 125k if I remember correctly. It needs windshield replaced as it has a crack. Also has a small spot of paint chipping on passenger rear door. Other than that it's getting about 18mpg and doesn't use any more oil than when I got it. Maintenance is basically Edge 0-20 every 7000 and grease what needs greasing. Feed it the cheapest 87 octane and roll. 4x4, 5.3 Crew Cab, Standard Bed, Heavily Optioned All Terrain model. I'd die to have a new one but I just can't crank out the money they are asking for one these days. My needs have actually changed and I'd love to get into a 2500 gas. Maybe one of these days the dealers will have plenty and rebates will be large (sarcasm)

All cleaned up... Cant wait till Winter's over...Done with all the road salt all over everything...

Thank you sir! I'll take a look

The parents are old so I made sure to cold proof the house. They have 2 generators, pellet stove, all water pipes/lines are wrapped with heating cables. They are also on well water. I did this a few years ago just in case Texas had the cold hit and now I am glad I did it. Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

The soft cover that I had with my '15, constantly looked like the back edge was torn loose and flapping in the breeze, as I was rolling over 55. I was tempted to lay it upside down, long enough to lay some contact cement on the rails/frame, to keep the middle from floppingflapping up/down, but the middle of each section would most likely continue to flop/flap.

Got Amp Research steps put on today I love the clean look when in the up position Sent from my SM-N770F using Tapatalk

I also did the reverse/cargo diode mod, as well as the fogs/highs. I had also done the puddle lights with interior lights mod, on my '15. Some issues that I've seen over the last few years, getting the diode lead into the hole, diode installed backwards, diode plugged into the wrong hole. If you only want the cargoes to come on in reverse (cargoes will still work by themselves), pin the diode (1N4004) the way that @bwlaqua did, stripe end in PINK26 (NOT 27, it's empty on most of them) and the other BROWN26. Should you also want the reverse lights on with the cargoes, use a 14-gauge (solid) wire between the same two pins/wires. I used the smallest tip jewelers phillips screwdriver or awl to "make an opening" along side of the pin in one of the corners, after fighting with them for a while.

I finished this project. Wasn't too terrible expect for the front middle seat/console that you had to tear down almost completely to do it. I did a roadwire kit and you have to cut out holes in the head rest for the buttons and you have to cut holes in the top of the seats for the head rest pins as well as the middle seat/console you had to cut several places on it. I was nervous I was going to cut somewhere i shouldnt and I think you have to cut on Katzkin kits as well but I think they give you lines for limits of where to cut.

Here you go. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.motor1.com/news/487487/chevy-tahoe-k5-blazer-conversion-487487/amp/

I see you are also part of the Blue Card Mafia...hehehe..

Friend works at a stealership and had these pics on her FB

Have not heard back from him..curious too Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

It’s either that or tinting the front windows to match the others as mod 1. But yeah, ridiculous that GM isn’t consistent with its LED lighting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

6 months. Picked up from the dealer on 7/31. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Probably ebay Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

My main fear is trading for a 22 next year and then having the same damn problem my 19 has. I really don’t think I can do it...

Yeah the drone with DFM is bad. Annoying as hell. I just kept it in manual and no higher gear than 9th. Doing that it never droned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Most of the mules, even going back to August 2020 have had different color spoilers. There’s been too many of them assembled like that to just write off as coincidence. There has to be a reason. Part can look the same on the outside and be redesigned internally. Window could too.

My thoughts are with people who have suffered because of recent weather events. We are currently enjoying pleasant weather but have been "under the weather" for a few days. We have been advised to go for a Covid test which we will pursue today. I hope for a negative result as we have been well behaved! For the past while, I've been sorting out electronic equipment and accessories that I have gathered over the years. I feel like I have every chord type and length ever needed to hook up computers and stereo equipment for the past 35 years. I realized just how ridiculous it is to save such things when I found myself driving to Lowe's on Saturday to buy a 6' extension chord for a new alarm clock!

I'm a huge Tennessee fan, but I don't think I could drive that every day...I saw one on the Insta a few months ago that was proper in the front. No black wings coming around the side. It was leveled with 35's and looked pretty good, but still. Couldn't do it every day. I chose white instead!

Buy a whipple...use it for a bit and then sell it to me for a fair price [emoji51] Edit...ever talk to that biggerdogg guy, wonder how his setup is doing [emoji848]

I hit 80k kms (50k mi) on my '15 Sierra yesterday and felt I'd entered the "old truck stage". At this rate, I'll be at a 1/4 million miles in twenty years! Thanks for posting! You made me realize my truck is still an infant!

I use the diode method. Not sure if this is how you already have yours or not. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Doesn't it bug you that someone can have 37's or larger tires on a huge lift but the rear end has pencil stick axle housings? Looks very out of place, like they skipped leg day. I should make rear axle housing tube accessories to make them look larger, would make zillions. Picture something like water wings but for axles, makes them look big.

Here’s a different truck from the same video WITH the slider. Note the different color spoiler on that truck, too. I might be over-thinking this, but maybe it’s the hopeful side of me taking over.

TFL caught some 2022 test models out and about in Colorado this weekend. Maybe GM is finally getting this fixed, as it looks like the spoiler is a different color than the body of the truck here. ??

Replaced the TB decals with all black ones. Replaced the chrome/red Z71 badges with black/red ones. Installed 1.5" leveling spacers. Cut out muffler and flapper valve and installed Flowmaster FlowFX muffler.

I upgraded from Halogen to LED and noticed that my driving led markers stay on when my blinker comes on. I had to purchase a harness from 5gendiy for the conversion. I would reach out to them and see what he can come up with on your behalf.

It's been a week with the monitor connected to the OBDII and connected live with GM TAC and my truck has not revved to 3500RPM but has coughed and fluttered upon starting but it recovers immediately. I was told to not mark the event until it revs. The Polar Vortex brought the temperature here to -30 to -38 without the wind chill and i think the colder weather doesn't amplify the issue. Temps are back to normal but after reading Transients post from San Diego, I guess temperature is not the issue. I know a co-worker with a 6.2L AT4 always starts his truck with his remote and didn't realize his truck had the same issue until he went outside to listen to it start with the remote. GM knows it's only happening to the 6.2L engine, there are now 7 in my area with the same issue according to my dealer. I will let everyone know once the issue is identified.

Finally installed these 2 minor mods now that the garage heater is kickin: These from Amazon... In short, they are what I call crappleberry flavored. Significantly narrower than what’s shown on the product the page AND the ‘Sierra’ lettering doesn’t fit above the first bend in the sheet metal So they look weird to me, and I don’t expect them to last long at all, but I have another style lined up for when they fail. 2nd one was these pre-cut fog light films from Lamin-X. Now THESE, are surprisingly very good. The cut is 99% the factory shape, with a couple misses in very small spots in the corners, very thick and high quality and they seem to adhere very well. Extremely easy to apply, no heat guns, and water is optional, but not necessary for smaller flat lights. (I prefer this to the cut your own and shrink on method, but that’s me.) So we’ll see how they last but I like em and they were pretty inexpensive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2017 6.0 gas base model work truck. Gas gauge goes faster than the speedometer, IDK, 9 MPG? I usually also have a big 2 seat Polaris Sportsman Touring four wheeler in the bed. Trailer is somewhere around 7500lbs loaded. After my power train warranty is up I’m thinking cam and tune. Now y’all have me thinking about headers too! Sent from the demons in my head

Same here. Hand washed it last night at the car wash to get the heavy stuff off and today at the automatic so the underside got sprayed off. Then a complete wipe down in the garage after. I hate winter and having a dirty truck. I'm hoping it rains tomorrow and the snow is gone.

If you plan to change the suspension like that make sure you budget for hub bearings which will not last very long.

Went to go help my MIL with no electricity in this storm. Had to stop and move a limb, it looked like a Chevy commercial so I took a pic.

Not a K2 mod, but today I made it easier to DO mods to my K2 in the winter! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lighted Door Sill Plates,...Was too good of a deal to pass up...

285/65R20 (34.6x11.5) Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT, 2019 Sierra SLT 6.2, OEM SLT Wheels, 2 inch front level, 1 inch rear block. No rub in drive. Rub at half lock in reverse. (Anyone know why these trucks rub only in reverse?) I'll be removing the mudflap bracket and zip tying the liner back to alleviate that rub.

2020 HC with GM 2" kit, and Bilstein 5100's set to 1.1" so it's basically a Trailboss that's close to level. 285/65 20 BFG KO2s (34.6"x11.2") on Raceline 20x9 0 offset and 6mm spacers to make the wheels clear the brakes. Removed brackets and trimmed the mud guards. slight rub at full lock, but really minor. Forums like this really helped me figure out what I wanted, and what was possible - so thanks all. Hope this helps someone else.

I don't have much to add but I will say this. The BCM does not control anything air, fuel, throttle, lean/rich or whatever else. BCM stands for body control module. PCM stands for power train control module or otherwise known as the ECM to some. These trucks are torque based, end of story. You are requesting a torque value when you press the accelerator pedal, that then gets thrown in to a giant calculation and it will open the throttle, give it fuel and the timing needed to meet that torque value. If you want to read until your eyes and brain hurt you can read the logic behind a torque based computer. http://www.hptuners.com/help/vcm_editor_tuning_how_to_advanced_e78.htm

Requester, The Service Parts 9L7 retrofit kits are NOW available. Below is the kit P/Ns based on the vehicle’s interior color and whether it has push button (BTM) or keyed ignition start. The table below then provides the list of P/Ns that are included in the kit for your vehicle application. NOTE: dealer price for these kits is $126.92, if more pricing information is required dealers are recommended to contact the pricing center customer assistance and request pricing. 84942071 for use with Jet Black interior and keyed ignition (-BTM) 84942072 for use with Very Dark Atmosphere Interior and keyed ignition (-BTM) 84942073 for use with Jet Black interior and with push button ignition (+BTM) 84942074 for use with Very Dark Atmosphere interior and with push button ignition (+BTM) Kit # 84942071 84942072 84942073 84942074 Knee Bolster 84487351 84487352 84487354 84487355 Switch Bank 84688687 84688686 84688687 84688686 Fuse Kit 84669070 84669070 84669070 84669070 Fasteners 11589015 (2) 11589015 (2) 11589015 (2) 11589015 (2) Aux Fuse Block 84645397 84645397 84645397 84645397 Under Hood Wiring harness 84794790 84794790 84794790 84794790 Retainers 11589290 11589290 11589290 11589290 The dark coco color interior is called "Very Dark Atmosphere" Now look carefully at the part numbers as it depends on how your truck is outfitted with OR without a key type switch. I did my own taking my time and I can say you will have to disassemble the entire (or most of it) the center console. Do a search and a good article is on Diesel forums. I had to redo the entire writeup in MS Office as the photos were messed up. I again took my time. I utilized my own means and methods. Good Luck Chuck

The factory ones fit great and snug. Then I just made anchor plugs and 3d printed them. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4500576

Looks great! Any rubbing at all?

Sorry for your bad luck on that one...had this one for almost 3 years now without incident, maybe it depends on which of the "clones" one buys...definitely a lot of similar ones out there.

Talked with repairing dealers "Customer Experience Manager" and are upping my lack of part to fix my truck to the GM District Manager. Called Dealer at which the truck was purchased and asked for a push from them - did not trust the truck to go 35 miles to them due to jump starting particularities - high amp flow on charge before jump. Selling Dealer had me go back to GMC.com Customer Service on call in - ended up being on text. Gave them my reference number and they will get back to me in two business days. There are many trucks that sit at the dealer waiting for a part - like two months. I could request a loaner Pickup Truck as the next step. I was told if it sits for more than thirty days GM would help pay my note on the purchase - mostly cash, trade in and tiny note ........... not interested. I am going to see where this goes, but a new truck with the correct part would be my chosen direction - exact same truck and swap them out ................. Day 15 out of service today !