Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Oh quiet down, you're still a 100k behind me...lol

385?
Posted

My seats are looking awful

 

:(

 

f5104be8c2b6ebc3501ab92c2f10987b.jpg

 

 

Ryan

Posted

Okay you wrench jockies with all of these high miles, what should I have in my tool box? Have most everything + other than a code reader...?

Serious, do all my own work and a bone stock type of guy. That is about the only thing I don't have.

In all seriousness, I don't have many tools in my toolbox. Odds are if something breaks on the road, I won't have that tool with me anyways. I just keep the basics. Small socket set, screwdrivers, crescent wrench or 2, random pliers, 4-way lug wrench and extra oil.

  • Like 2
Posted

In all seriousness, I don't have many tools in my toolbox. Odds are if something breaks on the road, I won't have that tool with me anyways. I just keep the basics. Small socket set, screwdrivers, crescent wrench or 2, random pliers, 4-way lug wrench and extra oil.

I agree with you completely and carry about the same plus my tools from my day job in my toolbox.

Posted (edited)

Bottle jack, tire iron, fuel filter, oil, brake fluid, rubber hose, hose clamps, 3/8 socket set, air filter, circuit tester, Bulbs and more.

Edited by Chevor
Posted

Cleaned the calipers and started painting them with BBQ paint

84f4e823ef185f2460c7aeee50c62c13.jpg

349682a0cb629e84d843b4fbd9699d82.jpg

Posted

Peeling all the trim crap off my 2015. I left just the bow tie on the gate and added a little 6.2 badge where it used to say LTZ I got from amazon. The door trim itself isn't bad at all to do but the Silverado letters on the doors are awful lol. The glue does not want to cooperate at all from them. I got the passenger done and have the glue to peel in the drivers side now in the morning. I refuse to use those eraser wheels.. I own one and they make a mess of a dark color trucks paint. I am getting the truck fully detailed and polished Monday. .. should look good. Added the black ck162 22's on it too... once debadged next is a lowering kit...

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Posted

Peeling all the trim crap off my 2015. I left just the bow tie on the gate and added a little 6.2 badge where it used to say LTZ I got from amazon. The door trim itself isn't bad at all to do but the Silverado letters on the doors are awful lol. The glue does not want to cooperate at all from them. I got the passenger done and have the glue to peel in the drivers side now in the morning. I refuse to use those eraser wheels.. I own one and they make a mess of a dark color trucks paint. I am getting the truck fully detailed and polished Monday. .. should look good. Added the black ck162 22's on it too... once debadged next is a lowering kit...

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

A heat gun works great if you have one.

Posted

Got mine out of storage. Man that thing is nice. And that 6.2 is illegally fun. SO glad I got that beast when I did.

Posted (edited)

A heat gun works great if you have one.

Just makes it smear and it's actually a lot worse. .. it's no help at all. The closer to a 70 degree ambient or so the better and it comes off mostly as one piece. This isn't my first time doing this... it's just the end that justifies the means lol. This.. detail... lowering... turbo lol.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Edited by 1994Vmax
Posted

525e066b75376734e85de9d6f627a57d.jpg

Done! Just needs a good cleaning and to get closer to the earth lol.f906c0b9e332d94c8ffd931b10c14291.jpg

 

Just cause lol.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had an 88 K1500 with a 5.7 that had those symptoms, I know totally different, it ended up being the ECM. Once you get the fuel system fixed if it still runs lousy you may want to investigate that. it didn't set any codes, stalled ,ran rough at times etc
    • Congratulations Isttype, on your gmc. Really like my 2024 2500hd sle doublecab now with 85,500 miles.  I checked the oil today at 4800 miles since last oil change and barely reading on the stick.  I don't care if GM says it's Acceptable adding a quart every 2000 miles because that is 100% BS, It is not a 1966 Harley Shovelhead! Sounds like it's setting up a future failure like I had with my 1500 6.2l. Other than oil consumption problems, I really like the 6.6l gas and 10 speed is really nice.  Towed a light 4000 pound trailer last week and averaged 14 mpg.  I was pretty impressive that a 7300 pound gas truck did 14mpg towing, Later-
    • Long Term Cold Cycle Limited Testing   Back to the 1990's and XOM's million mile test. Since then there have been others and there will be more. Schaeffer's, AMSOIL to name two. Of these Schaeffer's is the stand alone which I will explain in a bit later.    http://papers.sae.org/600190/:   http://papers.sae.org/850215/:   Up to 75% of  engine wear occurs on cold starts. These two links (above) provide the technical reasons for engine wear. In a nut shell, and by a large margin, cylinder wear is what takes out most motors and even with a pre-oiling system that part of the engine is dry enough on cold starts and cold warm up to pierce Stribeck.   So when you put a motor, or a car, on a dyno for a million miles stopping only for oil changes, (yes fuel is uninterrupted) or break down maintenance, you are depriving the test of the most important part of it's wear cycle. Yes a million is then a pretty easy walk even for a mineral oil under those conditions.    How about cleanliness during the long test cycles? Same thing. Varnishes that stick rings and insulate parts are laid down by repetitive 'heat cycles'. It's the cool down the precipitates the varnishes. These long runs also hinder acidic attack caused by cold start richness and less than optimal cold start ring sealing. They hinder water formation and enhance breathing of the crankcase; the petri dish of acid formation, the first step in sludge formation, amalgamation and precipitation. These motors are also monitored and controlled for water and oil temperatures to within the "normal operating range".      https://www.swri.org/sites/default/files/sequence-iiih-test.pdf Note the test sequence in some boutique oils literature for testing, API IIIH, is not the standard used for the ILSAC G7 testing. Does that mean it is irrelevant? No, not as used. As used as a 'visual guide' it makes it's point. The G7 weighted piston deposit minimum is lower.      Back to Schaeffer's. That was a cyclical test of an engine in fleet service and not a dyno mule and if you saw the video it was not mirror clean but wear was low.    There are oils like BioSyn and other 'Renewable" source oils that taught cleanliness and have proven themselves in fleet testing. Havoline an other example.    The newest ILSAC G-7 test prioritize cleanliness, LSPI mitigation and fuel economy OVER WEAR. In comparison Porsche C30 Specification Verses ILSAC G-7 Specification below:      Some will balk that this graph isn't apples to apples and I will challenge that in that this graph represent the SPECIFICATION and not the any One Oil Performance.   It is absolutely possible to minimize wear, maximize cleanliness and mitigate LSPI etc., It just isn't cheap and currently I see none that are not walking toward profit over performance.     
    • I don't think you will need a split, separate product, etc., the OBD port should be able to deliver everything you need. Since your device would be plugged into it all the time, it wouldn't miss anything.    Hardware in this case will be the easiest part of your project - ELM 327 devices will already deliver all the data you need. Reporting/software is where your advantage/marketability is.
    • I do too. I’ll never be stuck again 😂
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...