HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

[Full Lock]

make sure the bulb is seated all the way and installed the same way as the passenger side

[Turk10mm]

K I'll check in the morning. The bulbs only go in one way with one large tab and two small ones. I assumed you turn it to the right once the tabs slide into the housing.

[MotoMedic]

K I'll check in the morning. The bulbs only go in one way with one large tab and two small ones. I assumed you turn it to the right once the tabs slide into the housing.

Hmm, sounds like DDM changed their bulb bases as well as their wiring harnesses. Their previous design had 3 equally small tabs so you could rotate & install them in 3 possible orientations.

All the previous troubleshooting pics were only regarding the little light scatter diamonds above the cut-off line.. I haven't seen anyone have the "hot spot" issue.

 

- Did the bulb come with one or more O-rings?

- Would you post a pic of the HID bulb's base?

[Turk10mm]

It's definitely in the only way it fits. There is a clear plastic oring if that's what you are talking about.

 

What's strange is that the passenger side is installed identically. The large notch in the housing is in the same place, the bulb inserts in the same orientation, and rotates to the right to lock in. Not sure why one side would project differently if everything is the same. I guess i could try switching the bulbs but that means taking the airbox out again. I still haven't been able to get it to snap back to where its supposed to go.

Edited April 6, 2014 by Turk10mm

[J-Jeezy]

I'm trying to make some sort of a relay harness to help me disable the drls on my truck based on voltage. Can anyone verify for me that kna non-hir 14 silverado the DRLs are underpowered lowbeams? Or are they running at full 12vs constantly?

[Btreyu09]

Pretty sure they run on PWM..

[J-Jeezy]

That's what I read. Then elsewhere I read when the photo sensor senses light it'll distribute -5v pulsating. Then when there's dusk or low light the sensor will distribute the full 12v

[MotoMedic]

Any members that have purchased & installed a DDM dual input kit in the last few months, please send me a PM!

 

DDM recently changed their bulb & harness designs, so I'm trying to figure out why some members are having issues. Thanks!

[Mike1220]

 

Projector housings came in today! Now I just got to find out how I want to mount them and in about a week and a half when my HIDs from DDM come in, I can do the final install and wire everything up! Let me know what y'all think about these. Also what do y'all think I should wire the rings to? I got the rings for the main purpose of helping to fill in the 4" hole created for the stock fogs. I'm thinking of trying to wire them to the DRLs, or should I just wire them to the fogs (but before HID ballast) so that they only come on with the fog light itself

 

 

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[MotoMedic]

what do y'all think I should wire the rings to? I got the rings for the main purpose of helping to fill in the 4" hole created for the stock fogs. I'm thinking of trying to wire them to the DRLs, or should I just wire them to the fogs (but before HID ballast) so that they only come on with the fog light itself

 

Wire to keyed power, so they come on anytime the truck is on

[Mike1220]

what do y'all think I should wire the rings to? I got the rings for the main purpose of helping to fill in the 4" hole created for the stock fogs. I'm thinking of trying to wire them to the DRLs, or should I just wire them to the fogs (but before HID ballast) so that they only come on with the fog light itself

 

 

 

Wire to keyed power, so they come on anytime the truck is on

Would you happen to know what wire I could tap into for that? The halo ring has a built in relay / capacitor so it won't overload and blow the ring. Only trouble for me is I'm still not as familiar with all the wiring like I was on my old car so not sure where to tap. Buddy of mine has a Tahoe that is the same body as my old truck and I was able to walk him through a few entire installations of different aftermarket parts over the phone. 2000-06 body style Yukon / Tahoe / suburban, I've taken that body apart so many times I could probably do it blindfolded and put it back together properly w/ the blindfold

 

 

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[MotoMedic]

Would you happen to know what wire I could tap into for that?

 

There are Ignition & Retained Accessory Power sources you can tap in the fuse box under hood (but I can't remember which right now and I won't be at a proper computer to look them up for awhile). I let you know when I have a chance, or maybe someone else will post and beat me to it. Check GM Upfitter is you know how to read electrical diagrams.

[Mike1220]

Would you happen to know what wire I could tap into for that?

 

 

 

There are Ignition & Retained Accessory Power sources you can tap in the fuse box under hood (but I can't remember which right now and I won't be at a proper computer to look them up for awhile). I let you know when I have a chance, or maybe someone else will post and beat me to it. Check GM Upfitter is you know how to read electrical diagrams.

I'm outside workin on some mounting possibilities right now, thankfully it seems like it'll be easier than expected to mount these things, I'll take a look at the fuse box layout and see which it is.

 

Here are some pictures I just took. I just pulled out a stock fog housing and wedged the projector in it's place

 

I checked to see how well it matched the color of the DRLs and while it's not a perfect match, it's not extremely far off. These just have the slightest hint of blue compared to the DRLs

 

 

 

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Looking at the manual right now, there are:

 

drivers side fuse box behind dash:

 

acc power outlet 2 -- fuse #1

Acc power outlets -- fuse 11

Acc power outlet 1/cig lighter -- fuse 101

 

Passenger side fuse box:

 

Acc power outlet 3 -- fuse 1

Acc power outlet 4 -- fuse 2

Retained acc power / acc -- fuse 50

 

 

So do I use the one in the passenger side fuse box? (#50) since that is the retained acc power fuse? The only fuse in the engine compartment I saw was the "acc power module / traction power inverter module)" fuse #53. That to me sounds like it would be going to the 110V plug though

Edited April 12, 2014 by Mike1220

[tanner709]

Use a multimeter to detect which circuits come on with the turn of the key by checking voltage drop across the two fuse port terminals. Put it in DC voltage mode, aside from that a test light would work in the exact same setup.

 

It's worthwhile to have a cheap meter around for small mods and tests like this

[tanner709]

Most local auto parts places will sell a "add-a-fuse" or add a circuit, they are a fuse add-on which are very useful

Edited April 12, 2014 by tanner709