Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Nice. I remember building a set of one off bixenon Rx330 blackbodies (Maximas stockers) with black lenses and woowee that was some color like nobodies business

Posted (edited)

I wanted a nice wide beam. After looking at sizes and descriptions for weeks, I figured the RX-350 bi-xenon would give the widest beam of the projectors that had a good chance of fitting. The Acura and big Lexus just didn't look like theyd fit.

Edited by spurshot
Posted

I wanted a nice wide beam. After looking at sizes and descriptions for weeks, I figured the RX-350 bi-xenon would give the widest beam of the projectors that had a good chance of fitting. The Acura and big Lexus just didn't look like theyd fit.

definitely let us k iw how this goes. I'm interested to see how much work it would take to make these fit

 

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

Posted

Just to let you know ahead of time if your doing the "rear entry method" you may not be able to get those through the hole in the back or fit onto the factory mounting plate gimbal thingy if they are any wider than a FXR 3.0 assembly. The FXR have to be dropped in at an angle as it is already.

Personally if I were you I would have just gone with the FXR because I know they fit. Also the depth will be a problem unless they take d2s bulbs with a right angle exit HT lead

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Kevin,

The RX-350 is a 1/2" narrower, the same height, and about 1/2" less depth.

Edited by spurshot
Posted (edited)

Question for you that have done your own projector mods:

 

I put in the STi R clear lens in one projector and left the standard lens in the other RX-350 projector. I fired them up tonight and it was obvious the standard lens had a better pattern and a straight sharp cutoff. The clear lens was arched and double lined/fuzzy/out of focus.

 

When I put in the clear lens, I measured the diameter at the step where it goes from flat seat area to the convex dome. That diameter is about 1/16" larger on the clear lens. This does not allow the lens to seat fully. I assembled it anyway and the snapring holds the lens flat. But from the results, it's obvious that the lens needs to be seated.

 

I'm wondering if I'm supposed to enlarge the lens opening?

 

I found some info about this projector on HID Planet and the STiR lens. They are indeed too large for the projector lens ring. Some modification is needed.

 

You can see by my pix that the projector needs to be tuned (focused).

 

 

Right side only, OEM projector with Morimoto HID kit.

DSC_2552Large_zps2415198d.jpg

 

 

RX-350 with STi-R lens not tuned.

DSC_2549Large_zps2e8ad9ab.jpg

 

RX-350 standard lens not tuned

DSC_2553Large2_zpsc846b377.jpg

 

 

Right side OEM projector with HID kit and RX-350 standard lens over. You can see the RX is wider.

DSC_2551Large_zps28a9396e.jpg

Edited by spurshot
  • Like 1
Posted

OK, I've been reading and finally got the clear STi-R lens seated by opening the lens mount I.D.. I also cut off the tabs on the shutter than limit the color in the center. Some focus adjustment and this is the result.

 

DSC_2561Large_zpsff8c5e8f.jpg

Posted

Fondupot

I've been taking pix along the way for that reason. I had read about all the projectors and this one was voted as the one most liked on HID Planet forum or one of them. Has a big following because of the wide beam and relatively small size. It doesn't have the super straight sharp cutoff like the FX-R, but it is known to be wider. I've been in contact with TRS about improving the beam further. I'm not to concerned about super sharp/straight cutoff, mostly the actual light function for my long trips on long lonely highways at night. It's going to need an adapter plate, which I've already layed out the RX pattern for. I'm just waiting to borrow a GMC projector for the other pattern, then I'll have them laser cut. I'll make sure they save the program in case it actually works out. :drool: Maybe someone else might want a set or two. Ah hell, it'd probably be a few bucks more to just run several sets to start with. :rolleyes:

Posted (edited)

Digging back deep into this thread but I have a question. I've got the wiring harness, code elim. and all from DDMTuning for HID's for my truck. Prior to learning how to adjust the headlight beam I ended up putting them in and then taking them right back out. Used one of the bulbs to replace one in my wife's trailblazer.

 

Now that I am thinking about going back to HID's, my question now is, would the Morimoto 9012 bulbs plug right into the ballasts and harness, etc... from ddmtuning that I have? Reason asking is so I don't have to trim or cut on the 9006 bulb from ddmtuning and I could just plug the 9012 right in and go ??

 

Thanks.

 

Edit: Their website says you can use their bulbs to replace bulbs from other HID kits so I am assuming they will.

Edited by 14WhiteZ71
Posted

Got the DDM tuning, 55 watt, 5K installed. Need to play with the bulbs/aiming a bit, but overall reasonably pleased. A HUGE improvement over stock...but that, of course, isn't saying much. I'll admit I'm not as impressed with the brightness as I was expecting. Extremely glad I didn't go 35W. FYI for anyone who doesn't think this is a quality kit...you really should get out more. Build quality is more than reasonable for the cost. Frankly, I'm not interested in paying 100% more for 10% more quality. But that's me, to each his own. Received mid august, got a 40A relay for those tracking such things.

 

Here's one for you. I decided to get the DDM "Error Eliminators" as I didn't want to splice/solder a cap inline and the BOW3 has nice, factory connectors. I never could get DDM to admit anything more than "Your truck doesn't need the BOW3's, but they won't hurt" and "Yes, there is a cap in the BOW3's". Neither statements really told me what I wanted to know, but it's worth a try. I wired everything up, hid most stuff under the radiator support cap, LOTS of room in there. Very nice. Put key in ignition, turned on truck, turned on lights and.........!!!!!!

 

Nothing. Huh. That's interesting. Well maybe more than nothing, I THINK I saw one of the lights blink once. Maybe. Either way, lights no workie. Grab the Fluke, check everything, I'm good. Ok, try again. Not even a blink. Can't hear relay.

 

Ok, sounds crazy but let's start truck. Start truck, cranks for a while but does start. Go around front to begin checking things (headlights on manual at this point), truck dies.

 

TRUCK. DIES.

 

WTF??? Start it again. Fires right up. 3 seconds later...truck dies. Try again, lights blink & truck starts, 3 seconds later dies. No errors, codes, etc.

 

Weird. Remove BOW3's figuring that's the only "unknown" component in this. Lights fire right up, truck fires right up, >2,000 miles later and many nights, everything works perfectly. No BOW3's, no caps.

 

No, the BOW3's didn't blow up. I can't explain this series of events.

Posted

Call the manufacturer and see if their tech support can help diagnose.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...