Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Having a bit of trouble with a TRS/Morimoto HID install.

Had a 2014 Sierra SLT that the following system was being used in:

9006: Morimoto Elite HID System

-2 x AMP: Morimoto 3Five DSP

-2 x 9006: 3Five 4300K $0.00

-2 x Canbus: 9006 $0.00

System was removed from the 2014 and placed in a 2015 Sierra SLT today. I can't for the life of me get the lights to work. Fuse looks good and after speaking with TRS I hit my ground contacts with sandpaper to remove some paint and ensure a good connection.

Any ideas? Did anything change from 2014 - 2015 that would prevent the system above from working?

Thanks in advance.

 

Polarity was switched on the signal from the vehicle to the lights.

 

All fixed.

Posted

-----HID FOG LIGHTS-----

 

Installing HID fog light bulbs in the 2014's has so far been a mixed bag. Some members have installed operated them for months without incident, while others have had their HIDs melt the fog light housings. It seems to happen across the board and isn't due to one brand running hotter than another. It might possibly be to duration of each use, with some magic number of minutes that, if you exceed, it'll begin melting the plastic. No one has really shown any evidence for why some melt and others don't. So that said, if you choose to install HID fog bulbs, realize it's a toss up on them damaging the housings.[/size

 

So that's the part that goes from the factory harness to the ballast instead of the stupid things you slide into the factory harness?

 

 

 

-----HID FOG LIGHT BULB UPGRADE SHOPPING LIST-----

 

(1) HID Kit

This HID kit will include two HID bulbs and two ballasts (ballasts regulate the amount of current flowing to the HID bulbs).

 

When ordering, you must specify the bulb number, wattage, and color temp:

 

Bulb Number:

5202, 9009, or H16 are acceptable (all three are physically identical but were designated with different numbers by different agencies)

 

Wattage: The majority of HID fogs on this forum have been 35 watt. With those, like I said above, it's a toss up. The 55 watt will absolutely melt your fog light housings. Some discovered 25 watt kits while searching online, but there has been debate if they're actually 25 watt or just re-labeled 35 watt kits. Hard to say what's correct.

 

Color Temp: The actual color of the light, measured in Kelvin. 3500K is stock yellow, 4500K to 5000K is white, and 6000K is white with hints of blue. Color temps of 7000K & above are very blue/purple and are definitely not recommended.

colortemps.jpg

 

(2) 5202 male / 9006 adapter *optional*

Most HID fog kits only have two bare wires for connecting to the stock source (which sometimes have metal pins on the tips). You can either jam these pins in the factory fog sockets, cut into the factory wiring and splice in the wires, or purchase 5202 adapters off eBay which you can connect to HID kit and then easy snap into the factory connections.

pins.jpg5202.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Finally got my 6k HIDs for the headlights installed on Monday.

Know a guy whos been installing in the Dallas area for about 8 years now and it only took him about 20-25 minutes.

Bought some LEDs for the fogs off Ebay and installed those myself about 2 weeks ago. Everything seems to match up well.

post-146351-0-60753000-1441295757_thumb.jpg

post-146351-0-60753000-1441295757_thumb.jpg

post-146351-0-60753000-1441295757_thumb.jpg

post-146351-0-60753000-1441295757_thumb.jpg

Posted

SInce my HIDS aren't going to work out and I'm sending them back. Has anyone tried these on the new 2015 Silverado Morimoto XB LED Headlight Bulbs. I figured if I'm returning back to the same place maybe they will exchange and refund the difference but I don't want to go back down the road of getting something that either doesn't fit or isn't trusted.

Posted

SInce my HIDS aren't going to work out and I'm sending them back. Has anyone tried these on the new 2015 Silverado Morimoto XB LED Headlight Bulbs. I figured if I'm returning back to the same place maybe they will exchange and refund the difference but I don't want to go back down the road of getting something that either doesn't fit or isn't trusted.

 

They are actually taking your kit back? I'm sure they know about the headlight covers, and I'm rather upset they don't mention it on their site. Keep me posted as to what you end up doing.

Posted

Oh dont worry there is a catch of course. 20% restocking fee and a 5% fee on any item that is not still in the original package. So bascially by the time i get the refund i will essentially only be getting about 1/2 of the money back. Thats why their was no kickback on the return im sure. But in the end thats better than never using it.

Posted

How did some of you mount the ballast for the fog lights?

 

I picked up DDM's canbus Hid kit over the weekend and took a look at installing it today and found out that they only gave you about a foot a wire to mount the ballast. My plan was to put them all on the extra battery spot in the engine bay, easy access and out of the way.

When i checked there web site they only offer extensions on the amp cored and not the bulb connector.

 

What kind of wire is normally used on these? could i just cut off the plugs and extended it?

Posted (edited)

Wow, so much reading. :lol: Just picked up a '15 LTZ and want to upgrade the factory projector low beams to HID. I am not interested in any retrofitting at this time. I want something plug and play and without any drilling or permanent modifications so I can revert back to stock if need be due to warranty.

 

Is the 35W Silverado Spec: Morimoto Elite HID System still the best setup for me? I'd go with the 5500k bulb.

 

I'd love to upgrade the fogs as well if there's any feedback on what's the best plug and play option.

Edited by SheeB
  • Like 1
Posted

Anyone know if these lights internals are identical to OEM? Like the mounts and brackets. Asking because I want LTZ lights and would put in some FX-R's. I would want to use the brackets FASTHeadlights sells. Trying to avoid cutting open a light...and paying $700 for true OEM.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381077913823

Posted

I own the very same ltz replicas and they are very identical. I have disassembled the entire light before and it seems to be the same specs. But if you like just order the replicas and then order the bracket to see if it fits before you buy the entire retrofit kit

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

27458d51cd78eb35bdfac68c962ca9e0.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Wow, so much reading. :lol: Just picked up a '15 LTZ and want to upgrade the factory projector low beams to HID. I am not interested in any retrofitting at this time. I want something plug and play and without any drilling or permanent modifications so I can revert back to stock if need be due to warranty.

 

Is the 35W Silverado Spec: Morimoto Elite HID System still the best setup for me? I'd go with the 5500k bulb.

 

I'd love to upgrade the fogs as well if there's any feedback on what's the best plug and play option.

There is some drilling involved and the rubber grommet that comes with the kit doesn't really fit because the bulbs stick thru the hole in the cap. At least it did on my 15 LTZ. I didn't realize this until after I had purchased the kit. I just recently returned mine because I'm like you didn't want stray to far from factory just yet considering I just bought the truck.

Posted

^^^ Oh, that sucks. Is it only the back cover that gets drilled? I could always get spares of those from the dealer I suppose.

Posted

I have a 2014 sierra all terrain with ddm tuning hid kit and for some reason my passenger side doesn't seem as bright, I'm not sure if its the bulb or what but it seems to be pointed off to the side quite a bit, has anyone else ever had this problem?

Posted

Anyone know if these lights internals are identical to OEM? Like the mounts and brackets. Asking because I want LTZ lights and would put in some FX-R's. I would want to use the brackets FASTHeadlights sells. Trying to avoid cutting open a light...and paying $700 for true OEM.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381077913823

I tried this a few months ago with not much luck. The projectors in the replicas must have different mounting specs than the projectors in the OEM LTZ headlights. The brackets from fast headlights are designed for the OEM specs. I had the FXR projectors in the replicas, but they were not secure as I wanted them and you have to do some flexing on the mounting kit. I picked up a used driver side OEM LTZ headlight and the kit went in must nicer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
    • I have four that read by the dash 8 to 10% better than miles/pump calculations and I have one that is spot on. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...