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Posted

So I just installed hylux ballasts with CN 35w bulbs. Was told I didn't need the relay kit as it only draws a small amount of amps at start up. However I cannot get the drivers side to stay in. Mess around with it and maybe get 15seconds but then poof it goes out. Tried a friend's bulb/ballast and same thing. Truck is turning it off for whatever reason. Would this indicate I need the relay? 

Posted

The factory wiring doesn’t provide the power necessary to drive HID ballasts. You’ll need the relay and a capacitor.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, cire0309 said:

The factory wiring doesn’t provide the power necessary to drive HID ballasts. You’ll need the relay and a capacitor.

That's what I figured, but was told by a few folks with these Hylux ballasts, it would be ok. Guess not. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I just installed the 4.0 kit from Fast headlights. No problems with my Hylux ballasts keeping my HID’s lit. 2014 GMC. Only took me over 4 months to get around to installing the kit.

Posted
9 hours ago, Chev-mekanik said:

I just installed the 4.0 kit from Fast headlights. No problems with my Hylux ballasts keeping my HID’s lit. 2014 GMC. Only took me over 4 months to get around to installing the kit.

So just to be clear, you retrofitted HID projectors into your headlights and you plugged the ballast into the H11 headlight wire coming from your truck? No relay and direct power from the battery?

Posted
7 minutes ago, cire0309 said:

So just to be clear, you retrofitted HID projectors into your headlights and you plugged the ballast into the H11 headlight wire coming from your truck? No relay and direct power from the battery?

In my case, I have factory projectors, 9012 bulbs. Probably the same as him. But yes, no relay and power from the battery. Was told that The Ballasts have built-in Capacitors and since they draw less than 5amps on startup there is no need for a relay harness.

Posted
So just to be clear, you retrofitted HID projectors into your headlights and you plugged the ballast into the H11 headlight wire coming from your truck? No relay and direct power from the battery?
No relay and no battery connections. I already had the crappy GM projectors and their updated 9112 bulbs. Now have D2S HID

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Posted
3 hours ago, Chev-mekanik said:

No relay and no battery connections. I already had the crappy GM projectors and their updated 9112 bulbs. Now have D2S HID

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I have the Hylux 35w ballasts in the factory projectors. I am using a relay because I didn’t think the factory wiring would be able to run the ballasts reliably. It was a bit of a pain to get the wiring run, but that’s more because I’m OCD. 

 

Interesting to know that the factory wiring is sufficient for driving the ballasts. 

Posted

I will add in a relay at the first flicker or issue. So far they are functioning well. Rhis winter will be the real test.

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Posted

I am intending to buy a set of 35 w hids from ddm tuning. I've been talking to them and cant seem to get a straight answer. I will be buying the canbus 35w system they have. Will I need the dual relay harness in conjunction with the canbus system or can the canbus hid kit be stand alone? Thanks in advance for your help.

Posted

There is a good chance you have a bad bulb too......also. check to see you are getting voltage coming from the OEM input plug. I really think there is a connection issue and not a faulty part.

Hylux 35 watt systems work great with no relay. The 45 watt you should plan on a relay and capacitor.

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Posted
1 hour ago, FastWS6TA said:

There is a good chance you have a bad bulb too......also. check to see you are getting voltage coming from the OEM input plug. I really think there is a connection issue and not a faulty part.

Hylux 35 watt systems work great with no relay. The 45 watt you should plan on a relay and capacitor.

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We played around with it a ton last night. Verified my bulb and ballast are good. Friend had a bulb and ballast that were also good. Neither would run in my driver's side. At most we would get a flicker, maybe a second or two, then the plug off factory bulb would lose power. The factory halogen bulb still worked fine however. 

 

So taking with the light shop, they suggested a resistor to trick the truck into thinking it's still a halogen. Ordered that. I also ordered the relays and capacitor just in case. 

 

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