Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 6/24/2018 at 7:48 AM, truckguy82 said:

Imo whenever telling someone not to install hid’s in stock non-projector housings, I don’t think the illegal arguement is much motivation.

 

the real reason not to do is because it makes you an a-hole

Oh, I agree, but if they're dumb enough to do it, they're probably ignorant of the law as well, because, you know, they saw it on youtube.

 

I have a habit of giving these maroons a face full of my brights when I pass them.  Wife gets mad at me, but I figure, heck, if you're going to blind me, I'm going to blind you.  Fair trade as far as I see it.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
34 minutes ago, Darmichar said:

Are you happy with the quality of the Anzo's?  I like the look of them but have seen enough people with issues that I haven't pulled the trigger on them yet.

Yes I really like them.  Have seen the issues others talk about but I have yet to have any.  They have stayed aligned, no signs of leaking or fogging, and the projectors aren’t too bad. These paired with the Morimoto fogs perform really well and look really sharp too

Posted
On 8/2/2018 at 9:07 PM, Pbjayyy said:

Yes I really like them.  Have seen the issues others talk about but I have yet to have any.  They have stayed aligned, no signs of leaking or fogging, and the projectors aren’t too bad. These paired with the Morimoto fogs perform really well and look really sharp too

Thanks for the feedback.  I may just have to get them after all.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

New to the thread. have been browsing through the comments and have found some good information.

I do have a few questions though.

1. I have a 2014 Silverado 1500 High Country, it has the factory projector lens for low beam, Is this an HID Projector lens? Can I just put in a HID kit and be fine?

 

2. If it is not HID Projector lens, has anyone had any luck with after market complete replacements? So I would not have to cut my OEM myself. I have specifically been looking for after market ones that look like the OEM. Specifically https://www.protuninglab.com/20chsi15253512.html  .

 

3. If I do end up having to buy just a HID Lens and mod my OEM what is the most recent census on the HID KITS out there? Since it has been a few years now are there any good reliable ones? If so where can I get it, and what parts are needed if not all parts are in the kit?

 

please and thank you everyone.

  • Like 1
Posted

I have an LT so I have reflectors but I can answer your questions:

 

1.  Yes they are low beam and are HID-ready projectors (you just have halogen bulbs currently).

2.  You can use the projectors as-is but some people have not been happy with them.  If not then you would need to do a projector retrofit like you linked to.

3.  If you just put HID bulbs and ballast in there are tons of options out there.  Lots of people have had good and bad experiences with different brands but this kit seems to get great reviews:

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/2014-silverado-morimoto-elite.html 

Posted

Yeah, the 14-15 LTZ/HC low beams are projectors.  They are not really HID projectors but the HID kits work fine in them.  Some swear by doing a retrofit with real HID projectors but I'm running HIDs in the stock projectors and it works great.  Would it be brighter with real HID projectors?  Maybe, probably.  But it's fine with the stock projectors and 100x brighter than with the halogen bulbs.

Posted
2 hours ago, MegaCode360 said:

Yeah, the 14-15 LTZ/HC low beams are projectors.  They are not really HID projectors but the HID kits work fine in them.  Some swear by doing a retrofit with real HID projectors but I'm running HIDs in the stock projectors and it works great.  Would it be brighter with real HID projectors?  Maybe, probably.  But it's fine with the stock projectors and 100x brighter than with the halogen bulbs.

and you have no issues with heat?
What kit do you have installed?

Posted
10 hours ago, Silverado1475 said:

and you have no issues with heat?
What kit do you have installed?

No heat issues so far.  I have the Morimoto Elite 35 watt 5500k Silverado Spec kit installed.

Posted

I will be troubleshooting my 2014+ elite morimoto hid kit. Both lights went out about 6 months ago and am finally getting around to do some investigating.


2015 Silverado LT Midnight Edition
4.5” CST suspension lift
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Found the problem to be with the OEM input connector loose. Made some adjustments and seems to be good now.


2015 Silverado LT Midnight Edition
4.5” CST suspension lift
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Another question for someone, are the HIDs supposed to be on during the daytime like the normal halogen DRLs?.


2015 Silverado LT Midnight Edition
4.5” CST suspension lift
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
40 minutes ago, chrispassas21 said:

Another question for someone, are the HIDs supposed to be on during the daytime like the normal halogen DRLs?.


2015 Silverado LT Midnight Edition
4.5” CST suspension lift
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Don't know about HIDs, But my LED's run during the day ,I just switch them off.









 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
Don't know about HIDs, But my LED's run during the day ,I just switch them off.









 
 

I’m guessing everything will run during the daytime then. Thanks for your input!!


2015 Silverado LT Midnight Edition
4.5” CST suspension lift
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

On the 14-15 trucks, the hid’s will be on during the day because they are set as the drl’s. You can buy a drl harness that can eliminate it or switch the drl function to your fog lamps. I have the morimoto kit and have just left them as is. We’ll see what kind of life I get out of them. The lifespan will definitely be shortened though due to being switched on/off a lot more than neccessary.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...