HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

[FastWS6TA]

 

Diode the DRLs to run at full voltage all the time

 

Run the positive lead (pin 6 on the harness) to your power input for the LED controller

 

 

Break the black wire from the upper and lower boards with a relay that gets signal power from pin 2 on the harness (this can all be done inside the headlight if you trace the wires)

 

the upper boards wont receive power from the driver until the headlights come on - duplicating stock

Good work. What type of diode did you use? I actually don't want to split the upper and lower bit have the controller plugged into the DRL (pin 6) to get power during daytime and then power them at night with pin 7. I figure a diode would be needed on each wire if I were to split power this way.

[Dangerdick]

1N4004. Same diodes you use for the foglight mod can be used to force voltage to lower strips.

And you will have to break the wires between the boards to make it function like stock, there's no way around it

Edited May 31, 2015 by Dangerdick

[Mike1220]

Good work. What type of diode did you use? I actually don't want to split the upper and lower bit have the controller plugged into the DRL (pin 6) to get power during daytime and then power them at night with pin 7. I figure a diode would be needed on each wire if I were to split power this way.

 

Diode the DRLs to run at full voltage all the time

 

Run the positive lead (pin 6 on the harness) to your power input for the LED controller

 

 

Break the black wire from the upper and lower boards with a relay that gets signal power from pin 2 on the harness (this can all be done inside the headlight if you trace the wires)

 

the upper boards wont receive power from the driver until the headlights come on - duplicating stock

Does pin 6 get deactivated at night? If not, then could one cut off the wire from pin 7 and connect the wire from pin 6 to both pin 6 and 7, if one were to do this, it would put both the upper and lower DRLs on full bright all the time right? Or am I missing something

[Dangerdick]

Does pin 6 get deactivated at night? If not, then could one cut off the wire from pin 7 and connect the wire from pin 6 to both pin 6 and 7, if one were to do this, it would put both the upper and lower DRLs on full bright all the time right? Or am I missing something

The LED driver doesn't function that way.

[FastWS6TA]

Does pin 6 get deactivated at night? If not, then could one cut off the wire from pin 7 and connect the wire from pin 6 to both pin 6 and 7, if one were to do this, it would put both the upper and lower DRLs on full bright all the time right? Or am I missing something

The oem led driver kills the brightness

1N4004. Same diodes you use for the foglight mod can be used to force voltage to lower strips.

And you will have to break the wires between the boards to make it function like stock, there's no way around it

Perfect. That is what I was thinking I would get in order to do this.

[Mike1220]

The LED driver doesn't function that way.

The oem led driver kills the brightness

So it's not the wires at the pins that carry the power? The drivers are in the headlight and the wires are just bringing the power in? [emoji53]

[FastWS6TA]

So it's not the wires at the pins that carry the power? The drivers are in the headlight and the wires are just bringing the power in? [emoji53]

Correct. That big aluminum box is the culprit.

[Mike1220]

Correct. That big aluminum box is the culprit.

Damn box [emoji19]

 

well hey, would you mind getting some pictures of how you wire in the switchback boards so I know what I'll be lookin at to make them run like stock pls? And if I don't do any special wiring like breaking the wires and I leave everything as is and just hook them up then the top and bottom will always be on at full correct? Day and night?

 

DD, you have them set to work like stock, do they still dim at night or no?

 

Sorry for all the questions yall

[Dangerdick]

That silver box on the back is a led driver that manages the system. I tried jumping the lower strips to the top and the driver won't do it.

 

 

And no, mine are full bright all the time

Edited May 31, 2015 by Dangerdick

[FastWS6TA]

[Amiodynski]

Has anyone experienced any issues with their HID's burning up the connectors? My VLEDs HID Low Beams on the Drivers side kept going in and out. I was able to wiggle the wires to keep it on. When I actually had time to look at it closer, I noticed the inside of my connectors are burnt !! NOT happy about this, or the fact that my VLED Fog lights keep burning out !! I have now had 3 fog light fail !!! I emailed VLEDs to see what they say, but at this point, I'm about to give up on their product.

 

 

Any ideas?

[morrislee]

Has anyone experienced any issues with their HID's burning up the connectors? My VLEDs HID Low Beams on the Drivers side kept going in and out. I was able to wiggle the wires to keep it on. When I actually had time to look at it closer, I noticed the inside of my connectors are burnt !! NOT happy about this, or the fact that my VLED Fog lights keep burning out !! I have now had 3 fog light fail !!! I emailed VLEDs to see what they say, but at this point, I'm about to give up on their product.

 

 

Any ideas?

 

Are you using any capacitors for your HID low beam? Almost feel like PWM is killing it. You are getting a good seal for your LMZ fog lights? I dont have issue for them going out but issue with moisture until I got sick of it and JB welded the collars.

[oromero830]

Hello,

I recently purchased a 2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 High Country. I've been reading the forum on the HID retrofit for some time and wanted clarity on a product. I tried PM'ing Motomedic with a question but it says I can't. I decided that I am going to purchase a Morimoto kit from The Retrofit Source. I have not read every single page on this post because I have not had the time and it's very long. I made it to about page 29 and I noticed there was some confusion about the use of a can-bus or capacitor with the kit. Some users mentioned having to buy this separately because the kit did not come with it. I chatted with a CS representative named Carlos at TRS today, and I am further confused. This was our chat:

**********************************************************************************************

Omar

Hi Carlos

I am interested in the Silverado Morimoto Elite HID System. I have read on a few posts by users who have completed the retrofit on the GM-trucks forum for Silverados and Sierras, that I need to get a capacitor/can-bus to make the kit work correctly.

I noticed that the kit comes, with a capacitor link, is that the actual capacitor? or just a link to connect a capacitor

some of the people that did the retrofit mentioned having to buy the can-bus/capacitor separately

Carlos @ TRS

The Silverado kit was built specifically for the new ones. It needs the Hd relay harness with the capacitor link

no Canbus

The Canbus harnesses are for European vehicles with bulb out warnings on the dash.

something your truck does not have

Omar

okay, my knowledge is limited on what the can-bus or capacitor are but the folks on the forum described those as essentially the same thing

so does my truck need a capacitor, but not a can-bus?

Carlos @ TRS

negative those are completely different products

the capacitor link is needed for the pulse voltage in the system.

it takes it, stores it and then pushes it out as steady voltage

Omar

okay, so this is ready to go, no additional parts needed?

maybe just some parts for installation like zip ties, etc

Carlos @ TRS

yes that is all that you need

Omar

i noticed that the site says DIY install guides, does this kit come with one of those? if so, is it a paper copy, or a file that is emailed or video?

Carlos @ TRS

the harness diagram is on the product itself

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/diy-installation-guides/hid-systems-mopar-low-beam-guide.html

and you can follow that guide

Omar

sounds good, thanks for the information

Carlos @ TRS

You're welcome, let us know if there is anything else we can do for you!

**********************************************************************************************

Is the feedback from Carlos @ TRS correct in that I do not need a separate can-bus/capacitor?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Omar

[NitroDatsik]

I have an issue with my hids. I got my whole kit maybe close to a year ago from ddm tuning, my passenger side seems to turn off after a while, sometimes when I hit a bump and sometimes just flat smooth roads. I have a few ballast laying around so I switched the ballast and drove it and it turned off again. My connections are solid, I can rock the headlight switch off and on and it fires back up with no problems. I haven't tried switching the bulb, do yall think it could be the bulb? I doubt is the relay because the driver side is still getting power and that's the last place the power goes.

Edited June 5, 2015 by NitroDatsik

[BuyAmericanIron]

 

Hello,

I recently purchased a 2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 High Country. I've been reading the forum on the HID retrofit for some time and wanted clarity on a product. I tried PM'ing Motomedic with a question but it says I can't. I decided that I am going to purchase a Morimoto kit from The Retrofit Source. I have not read every single page on this post because I have not had the time and it's very long. I made it to about page 29 and I noticed there was some confusion about the use of a can-bus or capacitor with the kit. Some users mentioned having to buy this separately because the kit did not come with it. I chatted with a CS representative named Carlos at TRS today, and I am further confused. This was our chat:

**********************************************************************************************

Omar

Hi Carlos

I am interested in the Silverado Morimoto Elite HID System. I have read on a few posts by users who have completed the retrofit on the GM-trucks forum for Silverados and Sierras, that I need to get a capacitor/can-bus to make the kit work correctly.

I noticed that the kit comes, with a capacitor link, is that the actual capacitor? or just a link to connect a capacitor

some of the people that did the retrofit mentioned having to buy the can-bus/capacitor separately

Carlos @ TRS

The Silverado kit was built specifically for the new ones. It needs the Hd relay harness with the capacitor link

no Canbus

The Canbus harnesses are for European vehicles with bulb out warnings on the dash.

something your truck does not have

Omar

okay, my knowledge is limited on what the can-bus or capacitor are but the folks on the forum described those as essentially the same thing

so does my truck need a capacitor, but not a can-bus?

Carlos @ TRS

negative those are completely different products

the capacitor link is needed for the pulse voltage in the system.

it takes it, stores it and then pushes it out as steady voltage

Omar

okay, so this is ready to go, no additional parts needed?

maybe just some parts for installation like zip ties, etc

Carlos @ TRS

yes that is all that you need

Omar

i noticed that the site says DIY install guides, does this kit come with one of those? if so, is it a paper copy, or a file that is emailed or video?

Carlos @ TRS

the harness diagram is on the product itself

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/diy-installation-guides/hid-systems-mopar-low-beam-guide.html

and you can follow that guide

Omar

sounds good, thanks for the information

Carlos @ TRS

You're welcome, let us know if there is anything else we can do for you!

**********************************************************************************************

Is the feedback from Carlos @ TRS correct in that I do not need a separate can-bus/capacitor?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Omar

 

Omar, give this guy a call. His HID kit is very high quality and the wiring harness looks factory and contains everything you need. http://www.downsouthkustomstx.com/ I am very pleased with my lights from DSK.

Edited June 5, 2015 by BuyAmericanIron