Jump to content

HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

MotoMedic
 Share

Recommended Posts

thetruck454 Enthusiast

thetruck454

Posted
Posted (edited)

I called TRS and according to them I am the only one with this issue, but the bulbs are so long you can't fit the connector inside the housing or it hits the caps. Earlier in this post someone suggested heaating up the caps to stretch them, but I have not tried this yet.

 

I'm guess it was people on here that ordered my extended caps. Got two who did and would like to hear if they liked them.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Got any left? Edited by thetruck454
  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

MotoMedic
MotoMedic

**The Sierra & Silverado HID topics have been merged and edited, in an attempt to create one comprehensive HID topic**   This topic will cover HID information, HID headlight bulb upgrades, HID f

MotoMedic
MotoMedic

-----HID FOG LIGHTS-----   Installing HID fog light bulbs in the 2014's has so far been a mixed bag. Some members have installed operated them for months without incident, while others have had thei

FastWS6TA
FastWS6TA

What is your name? I will look you up and reply. You wouldn't believe the amount of emails we get in a day. It is staggering and the best we can do is quickly sift through them looking for the easiest

Posted Images

WendysOrBust Enthusiast

WendysOrBust

Posted
Posted

Ok, so I've been having some problems with my TRS kit. It was running for a while but now I am getting no power to the driver side headlight. I already removed the harness, did a fresh install, sanded down the paint where my ground connections are attached, swapped ballasts, bulbs and nothing. Only passenger side headlight will power. I contacted TRS customer support and they have been great, the guy suggested I use a volt meter to test my ground connections and test the ballast plugs. Next he suggested to swap out the igniter cables to see if they would be the culprit, I admit, I did not do this when swapping ballasts. Finally he suggested I swap the relays with one another to see if the issue is a relay.

 

So far I have completely removed the harness and next time I put it back in to test I am going to just ground all my connections to the battery to remove the possibility of a faulty ground.

 

Is there anyone else going through this? I am running the oe bulbs again and forgot how awful the factory light output is.

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted

Ok, so I've been having some problems with my TRS kit. It was running for a while but now I am getting no power to the driver side headlight. I already removed the harness, did a fresh install, sanded down the paint where my ground connections are attached, swapped ballasts, bulbs and nothing. Only passenger side headlight will power. I contacted TRS customer support and they have been great, the guy suggested I use a volt meter to test my ground connections and test the ballast plugs. Next he suggested to swap out the igniter cables to see if they would be the culprit, I admit, I did not do this when swapping ballasts. Finally he suggested I swap the relays with one another to see if the issue is a relay.

 

So far I have completely removed the harness and next time I put it back in to test I am going to just ground all my connections to the battery to remove the possibility of a faulty ground.

 

Is there anyone else going through this? I am running the oe bulbs again and forgot how awful the factory light output is.

Did you check the connection to the factory wire? Mine was loose there so they relay would loose contact and quit grabbing power from the battery.
WendysOrBust Enthusiast

WendysOrBust

Posted
Posted

Did you check the connection to the factory wire? Mine was loose there so they relay would loose contact and quit grabbing power from the battery.

I will next time, I had the kit installed when power stopped going to driver side. Removed harness and reinstalled kit and same thing. So I re-connected all connections but it could be possible that one of the wires came loose from the actual plug. I will check again here in a few days when I get a chance to work on it.

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted

I will next time, I had the kit installed when power stopped going to driver side. Removed harness and reinstalled kit and same thing. So I re-connected all connections but it could be possible that one of the wires came loose from the actual plug. I will check again here in a few days when I get a chance to work on it.

Doing that fixed my issue. It was a pain the ass to remove the bulb and all that but it was worth it.
WendysOrBust Enthusiast

WendysOrBust

Posted
Posted

Doing that fixed my issue. It was a pain the ass to remove the bulb and all that but it was worth it.

I'm guessing you are referring to the one in the bottom right hand side of the image below that says "flip this connection"

 

f2FdUM0.jpg

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted

I'm guessing you are referring to the one in the bottom right hand side of the image below that says "flip this connection"

 

f2FdUM0.jpg

Yes and no. My Anzo Headlights use a different connection and the hid bulb come with just the black and red wires separate with male connection on each so I just stuck those inside the Anzo connection and tapped them. But the were coming loose. I wish they had a solid connection for the h7s
morrislee Enthusiast

morrislee

Posted
Posted (edited)

How do you determine if you need single or dual input?

 

Oops, miss read your question.

 

See if the side of the headlight turns off if you flash the signal of that side. if it does, you need dual. I dont think the GM needs that though.

Edited by morrislee
  • Like 1
Sixstroke Enthusiast

Sixstroke

Posted
Posted (edited)

Oops, miss read your question.

 

See if the side of the headlight turns off if you flash the signal of that side. if it does, you need dual. I dont think the GM needs that though.

Much appreciated.

 

Regarding DDM's Error Eliminators, they offer the BOW3's and 4700uF caps. From my understanding, the BOW3's are intended for vehicles without reverse polarity. So, I would assume I need the 4700uF caps?

 

Thanks again

 

 

*edit* For reference, this is for a '15 Silverado W/T

Edited by Sixstroke
morrislee Enthusiast

morrislee

Posted
Posted

Much appreciated.

 

Regarding DDM's Error Eliminators, they offer the BOW3's and 4700uF caps. From my understanding, the BOW3's are intended for vehicles without reverse polarity. So, I would assume I need the 4700uF caps?

 

Thanks again

 

 

*edit* For reference, this is for a '15 Silverado W/T

I dont think reverse polarity exist.... You just plug it in, if it does not work, flip the connector. I never bought the premade capacitor, I just bought ones from local electronic store for a few dollars and crimp the leads to the relay harness signal in with the polarity checked using a volt meter

Maine-iac Enthusiast

Maine-iac

Posted
Posted

Much appreciated.

 

Regarding DDM's Error Eliminators, they offer the BOW3's and 4700uF caps. From my understanding, the BOW3's are intended for vehicles without reverse polarity. So, I would assume I need the 4700uF caps?

 

Thanks again

 

 

*edit* For reference, this is for a '15 Silverado W/T

I used the 4700uF caps from DDM that came with the kit and I haven't had any issues thus far. I personally would recommend getting them. That way you cant go wrong.

morrislee Enthusiast

morrislee

Posted
Posted

I used the 4700uF caps from DDM that came with the kit and I haven't had any issues thus far. I personally would recommend getting them. That way you cant go wrong.

Actually, some of those blows up. The ones mike1220 got end up blowing up and shred pieces everywhere. That is why I end up making my own as I know how they work :)

  • Like 1
WendysOrBust Enthusiast

WendysOrBust

Posted
Posted

Yes and no. My Anzo Headlights use a different connection and the hid bulb come with just the black and red wires separate with male connection on each so I just stuck those inside the Anzo connection and tapped them. But the were coming loose. I wish they had a solid connection for the h7s

Just to circle back on this problem I found out what was wrong. One of my relays was completely corroded.

 

2Z9ybty.jpg

 

DwDUHxG.jpg

 

Not sure what went wrong here. It looks like there was some water/humidity in there but if that's the case it probably happened during manufacturing as my truck has never gone off-road and my relay sits in between my air box and fender.

 

I've sent the pictures to their customer support. Hopefully he can send me another harness soon. I would like a full kit because even though I tested both ballasts I'm not sure if the corroded relay will affect their lifespan. We'll see though, they usually get back to me within a few hours.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Me too……..

      By newdude · Posted

      The engine was done as part of the 6.2 recall?   You'd have to see if your VIN also has the 6.2 engine special coverage on it.  Coverage number is N252494003.  If you have this, your engine is covered under this and NOT the GM replacement part engine warranty which is 3yr/100k from the date of install.  The 3yr/100k mi warranty is in effect for non warranty purchases.     This is not any different if it was replaced under warranty without a recall or special coverage.  So if you had a 5.3 and it popped at 3 years in at 50,000mi during the 5yr/60k powertrain, the replacement engine would not get the 3yr/100k, and instead gets the remainder of the 5yr/60k as coverage.     So N252494003 gives 10 years or 150,000mi of coverage, which ever comes first, starting at the vehicle in service date.  So if your in service date is 01/01/2022, N252494003 gives you special coverage of the engine until 01/01/2032 or 150,000mi, whichever comes first.  So if your start date was 01/01/2022, you'd have left 5 years and 4 months (lets round to august 1st), or 62,000mi left of coverage.   So you need to know your in service date to know how much coverage is left.  
    • CamGTP
      Injector update

      By CamGTP · Posted

      Okiee dokie there bud, way to take things to the extreme.   I guess you missed the whole point and take things way to serious. I installed different EV6 style injectors that just so happen to be larger in my car running the same LQ4 engine and with a better spray pattern than the stock style injectors and I noticed no difference in the idle quality. Kinda was my round about way of saying that even if you put the same size but better style injectors in your truck, you will likely see the same thing.    I'm sure you're great to have conversations with in person if that's how you act through a keyboard. One little things sets you off and now I guess my dick is all up in your face.
    • richard wysong
      Injector update

      By richard wysong · Posted

      WoW
    • taze
      Me too……..

      By taze · Posted

      I can't believe that could possibly be the case. It should be 36mo/100k miles from installation. Then again, it also seems like since a dealership installed it, it'd all be in the system and you wouldn't need to worry about registering, either. Shows you what I know. 😄 Hope this one outlives the warranty!
    • asilverblazer
      The Peckish Synapse

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I haven't seen inventory recovery from COVID.    In the few random times I 'build my own' truck or SUV, no one has the exact one I want.   GM has been working to lower incentives too for a long time.    A $500 incentive isn't getting me off the couch to go truck shopping.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...