Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So thanks to everyone who helped, but a capacitor was the answer. Had an extra one laying around a bingo!

Posted (edited)

Okay. Just tested and it all works. I just need to finalize the rear cover seals before putting the grill back on. Of course night will help aim them. I also took a lot of pictures and might be able to help others have less issues, but it will still take a while and patience. Other than new rear covers it and 8 scews will go to stock with out anything else. I drilled no holes anywhere.

Edited by Crf450r420
Posted

F me. The capacitor worked for 1 hour of driving. Buzzing is back. I'm going to have to try the recommended ones

Posted

 

 

I'm no electrical wizard, but I'd think a solid state relay with an acceptably wide operating voltage range would be in order. That buzzing is parts actually moving very very fast and they will eventually fail...in not so long a time.

Trust me...

20140821_181807_zpskbqmi5gw.jpg

 

Hows about one of these?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Crydom/DC60S3/?qs=mNyg5qXQ%2FsdpD8JEee%252brpQ%3D%3D&kpid=2139422&gclid=CIKSldvXjsICFUuVfgodrD4AvQ

 

When I go thru things on the truck again for a projector retrofit, I'm going solid state on the relays.

Why do these come with two relays on the harness and just have a tiny wire going to the battery? There is no way the little wire will handle two 40 amp relays at full power, so you know this isn't pulling full power. One relay would probably do the work and would most likely have less trouble staying on with the power that is having trouble keeping two on. If I was to go solid state, I would think about getting one with a delay off control. Then you can set it to stay on for a minute and as long as it gets enough signal one a minute it would stay on. I have already thought about upgrading the relays to a good Hella relay we use at work before I even installed it.

Posted

I put a set of 5000k 35w HIDs from Morimoto in my fog lights and am noticing the chrome that lines the fog housing is starting to melt. Will this get worse? Why would they make something that would melt this housing? The lense also feels hot as hell when touching it.

Posted

I put a set of 5000k 35w HIDs from Morimoto in my fog lights and am noticing the chrome that lines the fog housing is starting to melt. Will this get worse? Why would they make something that would melt this housing? The lense also feels hot as hell when touching it.

 

 

35W HIDs will put off a lot of heat for that little housing. I had issues with mine. I have a picture in the first or second page. The chrome in mine started to form bubble marks from the heat of a 25W HID. The 35W kits are a hit or miss in these housings.

 

It should not get much worse. Although make for sure that they are seated properly and held tight cause if you hit a good bump and knock them loose then they will melt the housings bad. Seen it happen before

Posted (edited)

In an attempt to help the next person some with their install. Pictures are in my gallery. I'm sure there are errors in this, but never done any sort of write up before. I'm more of a do it person. LOL

 

I order the Morimoto kit from Retrofit source. The guy on the phone was helpful and I didn't want to wait 2 weeks.

 

First, tools needed: a tool to remove the plastic clips. 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, and ¼” nut drivers. I also used ¼” ratchet with a 10mm and extension for some parts. Tiny flat blade, small flat blade, and a small Phillips screw drivers. Wire strippers, crimpers, two heat shrink butt connectors, two feet of 16ga wire and two feet of wire loom. A tool to cut the back of the headlight caps, I used a cutoff on my Dremel. Tape to seal the back covers again, I used Gorilla tape as it is best of what I had (this stuff is what duct tape once was and then some). 4 x 6mm lock nuts, I only use stainless. 8 x #8 screws, 4 x 1.5” and 4 x 1”. I used ¼” hex heads for 6 and the other 2 are Phillips head. Drill and bit set to modify system to fit and a 9 volt battery for testing. One sided foam tape and some blue Loctite. Jack with two stands. Small zip ties.

 

I started by marking a spot 25 feet from garage. I pulled the truck there and marking the light line on the wall. I the backed the truck inside and marked the lights again on the garage door. I then jacked up the front a little and put it on stands so I could get under my chest under the front without hitting. I then pulled off the top cover under the hood and the full intake system. I then climbed under to get the 4 bolts holding the grill and then the 4 on top. Next removed the 2 bolts in each wheel well holding the painted trim piece and pulled it out from under the head lights. I then lifted up the grill to remove both pieces at once. I then disconnected the trim piece from the grill to make it easier to lie down, plus it’s easier to put it back together later. Then removed the 4 bolts in each headlight, if you lift just a little on the bottom of the headlight it takes no force to get the top clip out and they come right out.

 

Next, the projector swap and the hardest part of the whole install. Obviously remove the rear cover and unbolt the current projector. Next, you should screw #8 screws into the mounting locations to cut the new threads and make it easier to get them back in once the projector is in place. I learned this by accident when I had to modify how I did the bottom bolts so the high beams would work correctly. Then cut some cardboard to larger than the light and cut a hole in it so it will fit over both projectors. Then put it over the new projector and run #8 screws in through the top holes. Next put it on the stock projector and hold in place with those same screws. Then use two more to punch the bottom holes into the cardboard. Now put it back on the new one and center punch the bottom holes to be drilled. At first I drilled the two holes and started mounting the projector without running the screws down once first making it a PIA. Once I got it done and was happy. I grabbed a 9 volt to test the high beam shutters and that was when a good install changed directions. The metal ribbons going from the bottom up in the area we are putting the bolts are the springs holding the high beam shutters up for normal driving. When the highs activate the solenoid it pulls the shutter and springs down unless the bolts are in the way like they were. Instead of messing with that I was once happy with, I grabbed the other one instead, which is why the thread cutting idea was learned too late for me. I drilled the second one and then drilled the top part out large enough to fit the screw heads so the springs could work over top of them. This is where the 1” screws come into play as the 1.5” will not go down far enough. I used a Phillips on the larger side and ground down the hex head on the other one a lot, making it shorter by grinding the head down and rounding it down small enough to clear only leaving a flat head to run it down. You will need to keep checking the front to make sure you have it squared into the head light and that is still there once you have all four tight. Then test the shutter with a 9 volt battery. Don’t touch both leads as the 9 volt is multiplied in the coil and gives a shock that was good enough to make me drop screws when I was testing at the high beam connector to make sure iffy pins in the connector body that we have to put on worked. I found I had to bend the lock tabs out quite a bit to get them to lock in the connector body during install. Then put the splitters and run the high signal to the projector and the original high beam lights. When I went to redo the first one I decide to take it apart which wasn’t a big deal and cut the tabs off instead of drilling them. I got some pictures so you can see what they look like and then cleaned them up before putting them back together with some blue Loctite. Then I installed to projector and found out how easy the screws go in the second time. Now cut the backs open to clear the lights and connectors. I used a cutoff on my Dremel and then filed the edges down by hand, too lazy to change to a sanding roll. Once they fit the wiring started.

 

I mounted the inverted to the supplied bracket and then put foam padding on the back to keep it off the bolt below the mounting point I picked. There are two bolts sticking through on each side of the radiator. I used the top one for the inverter and the bottom one for the grounds. It takes a M6 nut and washer. I also grounded my capacitor ground on the passenger side one. I then drilled the hole in the relay mounting tab large enough to use the plastic rivet holding the block behind the headlight. This way zero holes were put into the truck. There is a step in the core support just below this point and I ran the passenger inverter signal and OEM control input wires passed that block there for a clean install. I then followed the hood sensor wire up and over the core support to the driver side inverter, following the hood latch control cable on the other side the rest of the way. This is where the extra wire and butt connectors come in. This wire didn’t reach with this setup. I then ran the battery wire up with the harness on the passenger side to the battery. Zip tied them all up and put the lights in with one bolt for testing. Once it worked, I taped up the back of the lights and put the truck back together. After that I just had to aim the head lights and take it for a test drive.

 

I was thinking and we need to find someone with a 3D printer. It shouldn't be that bad to make new rear covers that are larger and deeper with a good spot to use a grommet.

Edited by Crf450r420
Posted (edited)

Wow!

Great write up and pics!

On your new mounting screws, how come one side you have a lot of meat and the other you're really close to the edge? Just the way it's gota be?

Edited by Horacio
  • Like 1
Posted

I put a set of 5000k 35w HIDs from Morimoto in my fog lights and am noticing the chrome that lines the fog housing is starting to melt. Will this get worse? Why would they make something that would melt this housing? The lense also feels hot as hell when touching it.

Do you have pics? I put in my 35w 6000k kit this past week and am curious now...

Posted

Anyone have any issues with water getting under the hood? I did a quick mounting job for the ballasts (1 near airbox and 1 in empty space where 2nd battery should go), and I'm wondering if I should worry about water getting in to the ballasts. It's quite cold up in Minnesota, and I was going to properly mount them this spring since I don't have a heated garage anymore. My primary concern is getting car washes. The engine bay seems like it'll keep the water out, as do the ballasts, but I thought I'd ask anyways... Better to be safe than sorry.

Posted (edited)

I'm trying to figure out how many people are getting away with 35w kit in the Silverado fog lights. I'm trying to get a price on new housings now to get an idea how much it would cost me if it does go completely wrong.

Edited by Crf450r420
Posted

I'm trying to figure out how many people are getting away with 35w kit in the Silverado fog lights. I'm trying to get a price on new housings now to get an idea how much it would cost me if it does go completely wrong.

Posted

Mori

 

Anyone have any issues with water getting under the hood? I did a quick mounting job for the ballasts (1 near airbox and 1 in empty space where 2nd battery should go), and I'm wondering if I should worry about water getting in to the ballasts. It's quite cold up in Minnesota, and I was going to properly mount them this spring since I don't have a heated garage anymore. My primary concern is getting car washes. The engine bay seems like it'll keep the water out, as do the ballasts, but I thought I'd ask anyways... Better to be safe than sorry.

Morimoto kit says their ballasts are waterproof and can be mounted anywhere. Don't know about the other brands.

Posted

I wrapped every connection on my Moto kit with electric tape for added water proofing. I also added silicone to the seams of the ballast .... anywhere it looked like water could enter. all my connections, etc are air tight.

  • Like 1
Posted

Forgive my ignorance and I'm sorry if used the wrong terminology, but isn't a relay + harness the same thing? In order words, I do have power coming from the battery. Thoughts?

 

How would I go about installing this solid state ready?

 

Cut the wires going to the existing relay, terminate them on the solid state relay as the schematic provided with the relay shows.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...