Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

As nice as the hids are to have, I have been having issues with my 35W morimoto kit from TRS. As of late, in the morning when I turn on the lights the driver side often does not fire up first try. I must put the truck in park, and turn the lights on and off and until they both come on. Seems like a ballast issue so I have a claim with TRS and they are more than willing to replace the ballast.

 

However, I've had a new issue that started a few nights ago where my lights will be on and I'm driving and they randomly go out altogether. Sometimes they come back on by themselves after a few minutes, if not I have to pull over and put the truck in park and turn them on and off until they fire up. Not safe and very annoying. Any idea what could be causing this? All my connections seem ok. I emailed TRS asking to just replace the whole kit since its obviously more than just ballasts, but no answer yet.

 

This isn't my first morimoto kit, and the ones I've had in the past have never done this and been good quality. I did the FXR 3.0 retrofit on my last truck (F150) and bought another FXR 3.0 kit thinking I might need to do another F150 but ended up getting the Sierra. Unfortunately I got the 2.5" projector, anyone do the retrofit without the 3" projector? I may take on the Sierra retrofit in the spring but in the meantime want to get this plug and play kit figured out. Appreciate any suggestions thx guys

 

 

Check the inline fuse. The fuse in my DDM kit was starting to oxidize and I was having the same issue. Sometimes they would work and other times, not so much. I immediately thought it may have been a faulty ballast but then how could both bulbs be having issues. Then I checked the harness and relay and both looked great. Then I checked the fuse thinking it couldn't be the fuse since they were still turning on but once I changed the fuse I didn't have the issue again. It has been 2 weeks since I changed the fuse and the night I changed the fuse was the last time I had any issue.

Not sure if it will be the same in your case but it seems to be the same effects that I was getting. So maybe its the same cause.

 

Hope this helps

Posted

thanks, will check it out tomorrow.

 

Just moved the truck and looks to me like the driver side bulb is on its way out. Starting to get that purple hue to it. Just gets better ! :dunno: ah well, replacement bulbs or even new kit aren't much, its more of the hassle/headache that bugs me

Posted

I was thinking the same thing with one going out at first and then the other joining later it sounds like the relays to me.

Posted

Does anyone have advice on where to mount ballasts? I think I found a dry spot on the drivers side; just on the side panel of the engine compartment but might just velcro it the the top of my fuse box instead. As for passengers side, I had the ballast and relay mounted just above the air box on the side panel but it turns out moisture came in somewhere and now I have a new ballast on order. Ive since moved my relays to the side of the air box (after market afe intake filter shroud) which seems to be a very dry spot. I was thinking of mounting the new ballast just above the rad on the drivers side..any opinions if this area will keep dry?? Also, I've went ahead and put silicone around the side of the ballast where the backing plate meets the housing and in the screw holes to prevent moisture from getting in.

Posted

Does anyone have advice on where to mount ballasts? I think I found a dry spot on the drivers side; just on the side panel of the engine compartment but might just velcro it the the top of my fuse box instead. As for passengers side, I had the ballast and relay mounted just above the air box on the side panel but it turns out moisture came in somewhere and now I have a new ballast on order. Ive since moved my relays to the side of the air box (after market afe intake filter shroud) which seems to be a very dry spot. I was thinking of mounting the new ballast just above the rad on the drivers side..any opinions if this area will keep dry?? Also, I've went ahead and put silicone around the side of the ballast where the backing plate meets the housing and in the screw holes to prevent moisture from getting in.

I mounted mine to the sides of the headlights. Between the headlight and the grille. I haven't noticed any water issues and they are hidden out of the way.

Posted

Did anyone add a TVS diode to their relays for the HIDs? I was thinking something like this that draws so little current would not be an issue, but what do the rest of you think?

Posted (edited)

It's the coil in the relay. When the field collapses, it creates a spike pulse. The TRS relays have a resistor built in, as does the Bosch and Hella relays.

Edited by spurshot
Posted

Does anybody know much or anything about the Morimoto 5Five 50 Watt HID Ballasts? I found a used set for sale locally that look to be in good shape. I've got 35w not, but looking to switch to 55w.

Posted

They have recently been superseded by the XB line. A 50 watt ballast will shorten the bulb life and is more likely to damage the reflector. But if you need more light, and don't have supplemental lights, it may be the way to go.

Posted

They have recently been superseded by the XB line. A 50 watt ballast will shorten the bulb life and is more likely to damage the reflector. But if you need more light, and don't have supplemental lights, it may be the way to go.

Thanks. So have you heard of anyone having problems with the 50-55W kits melting any part of the reflector or housing? Definitely not trying to damage any part of the headlight. I don't want to have to pay to replace those housings! I have 5000k 35w now, but would like something that matches the LEDs and I heard either 4300k 35w or 5000k 55w.

 

Thanks

Posted

You might call TRS and ask what your options are. They have a new XB bulb out that's supposed to be better. The best performance is going to be a Retrofit of the projectors with a better projector and putting in osram cbi bulbs.

Posted

They are all so cheap that unless you can change them super easy, I'd get new ones.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...