Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I apologize if this has been covered but I've got a Sierra and I'm wondering if you have to bake it apart to remove the old projector? The silverado guys don't have to judging by the OP but it doesn't look like there's room to get at the screws for the stock projector.

 

Also once the old projectors out is it pretty easy to tell what to wire the new for projector shutter to? I didn't see any post about it.

Have to open them up. Just cut them. Screw baking open. Destroys the channel and comprises the seal. Some have done it successfully but cutting is the way we do it. Apparently someone on here has been able to get their projectors out from the back of the unit............I really don't know how. There is literally no room. The lenses is +3" and the opening is like 3. Lol. I can take a bunch of pics to show you. Lol. Hooking to the bixenon solenoid is easy. I will also post pics of the bracket I have made. At this moment the only way I have to make it is with a 3D printer and that is slow as shit. I am trying to find a shop to make it without it costing me $5k up front. Lol.
  • Like 1
Posted

Have to open them up. Just cut them. Screw baking open. Destroys the channel and comprises the seal. Some have done it successfully but cutting is the way we do it. Apparently someone on here has been able to get their projectors out from the back of the unit............I really don't know how. There is literally no room. The lenses is +3" and the opening is like 3. Lol. I can take a bunch of pics to show you. Lol. Hooking to the bixenon solenoid is easy. I will also post pics of the bracket I have made. At this moment the only way I have to make it is with a 3D printer and that is slow as shit. I am trying to find a shop to make it without it costing me $5k up front. Lol.

I don't suppose you could post pics of where you're cutting em? I wonder if it'd be easier to just cut the back out unless that's what you're saying haha

Posted

Go on my youtube channel (Fastheadlights) as I have done how to videos on there. Do not try to cut open the back to remove that projector. You will have so much plastic and debris stuck in the housing it would be impossible to get out. Also, the is some modification that needs to be done to the stock bracket to allow for the fxr to mount flush and square. Again, that is the reason we made an adapter so that we could be assured that the projector mounted flush and secure.

  • Like 1
Posted

I installed the Sierra Morimoto Elite HID kit in my 2014 Sierra, but my lights stay on after I turn the truck off and remove they keys. The lights are set to "auto", but they still stay on. Has anyone ran into this before?

Posted

I installed the Sierra Morimoto Elite HID kit in my 2014 Sierra, but my lights stay on after I turn the truck off and remove they keys. The lights are set to "auto", but they still stay on. Has anyone ran into this before?

I believe they are supposed to stay on for a min or so... are they ever turning off?

GMC-AT is correct. The lights should turn off when the key is turned to the OFF position and then they should reignite when the key is removed from the ignition. They should stay on for about 30seconds to a minute I believe

Posted

They didn't turn off in the 10 minutes I left them. I had to disconnect from battery so they didn't drain it

Posted

They didn't turn off in the 10 minutes I left them. I had to disconnect from battery so they didn't drain it

sounds like maybe your relay is somehow fubar? Staying open or something

 

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

They didn't turn off in the 10 minutes I left them. I had to disconnect from battery so they didn't drain it

 

I agree with Corwest. Sounds like a harness issue. Try opening the relay (just remove the black plastic cover) and see if there is somehow already rust or anything holding the circuit on when connected to battery. I had to do that for my LED bar harness. It started rusting a little from a week of heavy rains and a bad position in the engine bay where it got water. I just disconnected the relay itself and put it in a cup of 7-UP. I find that works better than coke or anything to clean battery acid build up and corrosion. It looks like a brand new relay after. I had this same issue with my light bar btw, that's why I suggest open the relay and see if anything looks wrong in there.

Posted

Mine stayed on once way passed the 30seconds there supposed to stay on. So I just cycled again manually and they turned off. Probably a stuck relay, and why I wish GM would just come out with a headlight fix for these horrible oem headlights, or a good aftermarket setup comes avail.

Posted

Mine stayed on once way passed the 30seconds there supposed to stay on. So I just cycled again manually and they turned off. Probably a stuck relay, and why I wish GM would just come out with a headlight fix for these horrible oem headlights, or a good aftermarket setup comes avail.

Thought I saw some pictures from SEMA that showed some aftermarket options for gmcs. I would expect them to start showing up soon on the webz

 

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

Posted

Thought I saw some pictures from SEMA that showed some aftermarket options for gmcs. I would expect them to start showing up soon on the webz

 

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

You saw right. Dont remember where we posted them right now. check the live post section

Posted

I think there is a topic called "aftermarket headlights" or some for of that in this section. Might be a little ways down

 

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

Posted

Back to my question from a while ago. I have a 14 GMC all terrain SLE, but comes with the SLT head lights with the LED DRL lights. I installed 55W 5000k HIDs from the retrofit source in the headlights and every time they come on I hear a buzzing noise, but not the higher pitched zzzzzz sounding buzz you hear when the HIDs and ballasts are first firing up, but it a more deep buzz like a deep humming sound and it doesn't go away until I turn my lights off. When i look under the hood to listen for the sound, it seems like it is coming from one of the relays in the relay harness, but the lights work the way they should, except for the annoying humming noise.

This has been going on for over a month now and i have tried but can't figure out how to fix it. I'm also getting terrible radio reception too. I know how to install HIDs and i have installed them on numerous vehicles and my past 2 person vehicles and haven't had a problem like this before, if anyone has any similar problems or has any help please let me know

 

Here is my order from the retrofit source:

HD Relay- 9012

Cap Link

Morimoto AMP 5five DSP

9012 - 5K bulbs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So I'm in the middle of a DOD AFM delete on my 6.2 L86 Sierra. I had a pick holding the tensioner but after I got the Cam phaser gear off I was cleaning off all the rtv and apparently I didn't have the pick seated far enough in. I bumped it and the tensioner sprang forward.  I think everything is good but I want a second opinion. The top of the tensioner is just a looped piece of plastic that rides in that channel right? There is no spring or anything is there? I got the gear and chain back on and it seems tight and everything looks right. I'm hoping nothing fell out.
    • My 2015 1500 LTZ Silverado suddenly won't go into 4 x 4 low. It will go into 4 x 4 high.
    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...