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Posted

That is 2". I need the 1" one. Thanks for the link..

... You remove the stock block (1" or 1.25") and add this 2" thus gaining you apx 1" in the back...

Posted

... You remove the stock block (1" or 1.25") and add this 2" thus gaining you apx 1" in the back...

Got ya.. Thanks

Posted

... You remove the stock block (1" or 1.25") and add this 2" thus gaining you apx 1" in the back...

 

Got ya.. Thanks

 

You have to be careful with this; I would message the company before purchasing. Some companies will advertise the actual lift height and some will advertise the block height.

 

From the picture those look like 3" blocks giving you 2" lift; but that may also just be their generic picture.

You should be able to pick up block lifts at your local auto parts store also.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

You have to be careful with this; I would message the company before purchasing. Some companies will advertise the actual lift height and some will advertise the block height.

 

From the picture those look like 3" blocks giving you 2" lift; but that may also just be their generic picture.

You should be able to pick up block lifts at your local auto parts store also.

I emailed them last night about the thickness of the block, still waiting for them to reply. Looks like I'm gonna go with the Ready lift since they have good reviews on them.. Edited by block8head
Posted

You can't go wrong with ReadyLift, atleast you know they've been tried and tested. I may also add those blocks to my RC 2".

  • Like 1
Posted

 

 

You have to be careful with this; I would message the company before purchasing. Some companies will advertise the actual lift height and some will advertise the block height.

 

From the picture those look like 3" blocks giving you 2" lift; but that may also just be their generic picture.

You should be able to pick up block lifts at your local auto parts store also.

Received the blocks today along with my 2" front level (lower strut mount made from billet alum). The new blocks are indeed 2" which will give me the stance I am looking for (some rake and not completely level). On my 2005 I had the RC kit with blocks and the ones I received today look/feel exactly the same and for 1/3 the price. For under $100 I will bring the front up 2" and the back up 1" total. Just thought I would throw this out there to help someone else.

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post-75321-0-61732700-1397679843_thumb.jpg

post-75321-0-61732700-1397679843_thumb.jpg

post-75321-0-61732700-1397679843_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Stupid question, I got my RC 2 inch level kit in the mail yesterday, Instructions say one of the first steps is to remove the front skid plate and unplug 3 wire harnesses for the electric steering. Couldn't I make it easier and just skip those steps and disconnect the battery instead?

Posted (edited)

My dealer told me to avoid the Rough Country leveling kits as they are made off-shore and are of poor quality. I'm leaning towards the Readylift 2.25 with 3" rear block and shock extension for 2.5x the price......is it worth it ?

Edited by J.G.
Posted

IMO, they're all the same when it comes to leveling kits. I mean, how much R&D do you need on a metal puck, really? I have the Pro-Comp 1.5" spacer (actually .80") that mounts on the top of the strut. I bought it from Four Wheel Parts for $150 because it was the only place that had anything in stock and I needed it that day. I just ordered a 1" bottom strut mount spacer off of eBay for $25 and I'm pretty sure it's the same material. If I had to do it over, I wouldn't hesitate to buy a no name spacer kit for half the cost. A lot of what you're paying for is the name on the box.

 

Now, as someone else earlier in this thread pointed out, things change when you go above just spacer leveling kits and start getting into actual lift kits. These actually do have some R&D built into them to measure angles and where to notch frame and whatnot. If I was going to go that route, then I'd put a little more stock into a trusted name.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Stupid question, I got my RC 2 inch level kit in the mail yesterday, Instructions say one of the first steps is to remove the front skid plate and unplug 3 wire harnesses for the electric steering. Couldn't I make it easier and just skip those steps and disconnect the battery instead?

It's unnecessary for the 2" level - no need to do either. Loosen the top strut nuts is really the only extra step I found was needed, it can be installed slightly easier than they describe.

Edited by tanner709
Posted

Guys that have done a 2-2.5" front leveling kit, what is the max tire you can add onto the stock 20" ALL Terrain Wheel gray painted wheels without it rubbing at any place?

 

The dealer I am dealing with is going to upgrade the tires for me but I dont want the regular stock size tires.

 

Thanks guys!

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