Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

BlueSS2003 Enthusiast

BlueSS2003

Posted
Posted (edited)

Here's a picture of my truck. 2014 iridium metallic crew cab SLT 4x4 non Z71

Stock wheels with Nitto Terra grappler 275/65/20 wheels lifted up front with a eBay 3/4"=1.5" of lift bottom strut spacer and I have the 5100's set to the second notch to achieve another 3/4" lift. The rear is still factory block which I do want to switch out soon. To me it looks like the front is sometimes a little higher.

 

I do rub very little but not enough to be concerned about.

 

Wish I could do a 4" lift but they are too much $$

 

For people that are concerned with MPG, which I am too, I am still able to achieve 19-20mpg on average going about 65-75 mph. I lost about 1-2mpg on average, which is nothing in my opinion.

post-82335-0-79711100-1425826647_thumb.jpg

post-82335-0-79711100-1425826647_thumb.jpg

post-82335-0-79711100-1425826647_thumb.jpg

post-82335-0-79711100-1425826647_thumb.jpg

Edited by Cheeze
  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

USCGRetiredJosh Enthusiast

USCGRetiredJosh

Posted
Posted

Question on torquing bolts after install of a leveling kit.

 

I found this in a previous thead(I think this thread), it states "second pass 90 - 110 degrees". Could someone explain that to me.

 

Thanks

 

post-138767-0-10452600-1425839444_thumb.png

post-138767-0-10452600-1425839444_thumb.png

post-138767-0-10452600-1425839444_thumb.png

post-138767-0-10452600-1425839444_thumb.png

GerryLP Enthusiast

GerryLP

Posted
Posted

Question on torquing bolts after install of a leveling kit.

 

I found this in a previous thead(I think this thread), it states "second pass 90 - 110 degrees". Could someone explain that to me.

 

Thanks

 

It's an overkill. The bolts that secure the bottom shock to the A-arm is not so critical that would require precision torquing. But to answer your question, here is a link.

 

http://user.xmission.com/~kd7olf/torque.html

berk4422 Enthusiast

berk4422

Posted
Posted (edited)

Leveled using Rancho Quick Lifts. The ride is even better than stock. Used forum member advice and set front on 3 and rear on 5. Originally was 36 front, 39 rear. Now sitting 38&1/3 front 39 rear. Couldn't be happier. Go big or go home.

20150308_131259_zpsx6gjqysm.jpg

Edited by berk4422
  • Like 2
USCGRetiredJosh Enthusiast

USCGRetiredJosh

Posted
Posted

Thanks Gerry for the info

 

I measured my truck to figure our the height for leveling and my rear was 39.5" and the front was 36"

austinkillough Enthusiast

austinkillough

Posted
Posted

Leveled using Rancho Quick Lifts. The ride is even better than stock. Used forum member advice and set front on 3 and rear on 5. Originally was 36 front, 39 rear. Now sitting 38&1/3 front 39 rear. Couldn't be happier. Go big or go home.

20150308_131259_zpsx6gjqysm.jpg

Did you install yourself or have a shop do it for you?

berk4422 Enthusiast

berk4422

Posted
Posted

Did you install yourself or have a shop do it for you?

Did it myself, very easy job. The front took about 30 minutes each side. The rear took 10 minutes each side. I'm fairly proficient, I have broken many of my own cars in the past to learn how to properly do it.

Hero_Arcade New Member

Hero_Arcade

Posted
Posted

attachicon.gif2014 Sierra.jpgattachicon.gifLeveled w-out blocks.jpg

The first two are with the stock 1" block

attachicon.gifleveled w blocks BR.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_0145.JPG

The second two are with the RC 2" block

 

Originally I installed the front and drove the truck like that for about 5 months. It made it dead level. However, even though measurement wise it was dead level it looked like the front was a little higher than the rear. So, I installed the rear 2" blocks and that made the rear right at 1" higher than the front. I personally think it looks best with the 2" block but it is all personal preference. With the stock 1" block at some angles it looked leveled and at others it looked higher in the front and I do not like the "higher in the front" look. So, if I were you I would install the front, ride with it like that for a little while and see how you like it. Then, if you don't like it or if you just want to change it up, put the rear 2" blocks on. I also think once I put bigger tires on it the little bit of rake I have won't be as noticable. Good luck with the lift! Post pics after and holler if you have any questions.

That's exactly what I needed to see! Thanks for posting that.

kborne Enthusiast

kborne

Posted
Posted

That's exactly what I needed to see! Thanks for posting that.

Not a problem. Glad I could help. There really is no straight answer as to what lift gets you exactly level. Two of my good buddies just bought the identical truck as mine and all of our stock ride heights are different. One of my buddies trucks is higher than mine in the rear even with my 2" block installed! So, you just have to play around with it till you get it like you want. I enjoy turning a wrench on my truck so it wasn't an issue for me. Good luck! Make sure you post pics.

GerryLP Enthusiast

GerryLP

Posted
Posted

I'm at Firestone now waiting for my truck's alignment to be completed. Even driving the truck without the alignment checked, it didn't pull to the side or seemed to affect braking nor dampening.

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
Posted

The only thing that would be affected by adding a leveling kit would be your camber and caster, which means you would maybe feel a bit squirly and have some darting on the highway.

CptMcSaug Enthusiast

CptMcSaug

Posted
Posted

After talking to rough country is seems the only difference in the leveling kits for the steel vs aluminum a-arms is that the bolts for the lower strut spacers are longer for the aluminum. Just for everyone's info. I went ahead and ordered the leveling kit so it'll be here when my truck is.

txchevy4ever Enthusiast

txchevy4ever

Posted
Posted

I installed my 2" Rough Country kit this weekend on my 2015 Z71 and immediately took it off. If you watch the suspension come to rest on the lower strut spacer, it places a tremendous amount of stress on that polycarbonate piece. I just didn't feel comfortable as the spacer didn't align with the lower control arm holes where it was pressed up against the lip to be supported like I'd like.

 

I have no doubt the rough country will be fine, but for some reason, it just gave me a bad feeling knowing the load that part will be under especially offroad and taking large bumps at speed.

 

I'm having a metal kit installed tomorrow by someone more qualified than me.

Asells Enthusiast

Asells

Posted
Posted

Anybody have a fender measurement with a 2" level and stock tires? Preferably double cab

tturner920 New Member

tturner920

Posted
Posted

After talking to rough country is seems the only difference in the leveling kits for the steel vs aluminum a-arms is that the bolts for the lower strut spacers are longer for the aluminum. Just for everyone's info. I went ahead and ordered the leveling kit so it'll be here when my truck is.

I know I'm going to sound dumb, but I have a 14 Z71 Silverado and how do I know if I have aluminum or stell a-arms so I know which kit to order?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,367 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...