Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

 

This truck looks perfect to me! Could you tell me the exact tire size?

 

His bio says they are 35's

Posted

 

His bio says they are 35's

 

Thanks. By saying "35's" is there an implied width with that? I assume 12.5 inch?

Posted

 

Thanks. By saying "35's" is there an implied width with that? I assume 12.5 inch?

 

Yea. Should be 35x12.5r20

Posted

What psi are you guys running with stock P rated wranglers? I noticed my dealer filled my tires up to 40psi. The door says 32 so I lowered them to 32 and it rides a bit better.

 

35psi all around for me. just the way I got them from the dealer.

Posted

I run 50psi of nitro

 

 

My Current Setup,2014 Silverado 2LT Z71,RCX 2.5 Level Kit,NittoTerra 33x12.50R20Lt's,Fuel - Octane D509 20x9 -12 Offset,All Chrome Plasti-Diped

My Up Coming Mod's,McGhauphy's 7"-9" Economy Lift Kit,Federal Couragia M/T's 35x12.50R20Lt's,OEM Tow Mirror's,Bushwaker OE Fender Flairs,Gtr Lighting Led Conversion Kit's 2,200 Lumen(High,Low,Fog),Black Spyder Venom Bull Bar,Iron Cross HD Step's.

Posted

 

 

This truck looks perfect to me! Could you tell me the exact tire size?

 

 

They are 35x12.5xR20LT.....exactly. :D Wheels are stock 20" chrome.

 

Here is a link to the ones I have, I didn't get them at 4wheelparts though.

 

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tires/35x12-50R20LT-Open-Country-M-T.aspx?t_c=13&t_s=160&t_pt=100825&t_pn=TOY360240

 

They rub and they definitely drink the gas. I wouldn't recommend running them unless your willing to get a programmer too to adjust your ECU for the larger tires.

 

They will cost you even more in MPG if you don't reprogram, and the reprogram could cause you problems with warranty if you have major power train issues before your warranty expires. Just some food for thought. I weighed the risks and I wanted to do it anyway.

 

I JUST got my tire size dialed in last night so I haven't had a chance to see what my actual MPG is yet, so we'll see. So far with the size slightly off I'm averaging 14.8 MPG and I drive 50 miles a day commute all highway some stop and go traffic in the afternoon.

Posted

Air dam and running boards removed.

IMG_1476_zpsf60tlvpm.jpgIMG_1477_zpsulp47qgq.jpgIMG_1478_zpsupxuioqw.jpg

 

 

What's the part number for the insert you have where the license plate goes, and how much did you get it for? Looks NICE! I'm thinking about doing that and putting a light bar in the slot above.

Posted

i searched and couldn't find the answer...I'm looking to install either a 2" or 2.5" leveling kit and i also wanted to upgrade the shocks. I am aware of the Bilstein 5100's and 4600's and i am thinking the 4600 would be best because the truck would be leveled with the kit. Does anyone know if the 4600's would work for what i want? or another suggestions based on what i am looking to do.

 

Thanks in advance

Posted (edited)

i searched and couldn't find the answer...I'm looking to install either a 2" or 2.5" leveling kit and i also wanted to upgrade the shocks. I am aware of the Bilstein 5100's and 4600's and i am thinking the 4600 would be best because the truck would be leveled with the kit. Does anyone know if the 4600's would work for what i want? or another suggestions based on what i am looking to do.

 

Thanks in advance

 

I don't see the point in buying new shocks if your planning on running a spacer kit. The 5100s are meant for leveling the truck. Your talking about spending 70-150$ more than you have to for a spacer kit plus new shocks. The Shocks are meant to be used to level the truck without limiting suspension travel like a spacer. Plus they ride great on 1.85.

 

I thought 1.85 wouldn't be enough but I was very wrong. It damn near looks like it's squatting at some angles. I can't imagine what the guys trucks with 2.5 front level looks like to me. I'm sitting at 38.5 front and 39.5 back pretty much

Edited by 5RWill
Posted

I can't imagine what the guys trucks with 2.5 front level looks like to me. I'm sitting at 38.5 front and 39.5 back pretty much

 

It probably looks like 39.5 in the front and 39.5 in the back.

 

:dunno:

Posted

 

It probably looks like 39.5 in the front and 39.5 in the back.

 

:dunno:

 

lol fair point, i imagine it would look like it was squatting. Just glancing at mine sometimes looks like the front end is higher than the rear. Really depends on the amount of factory rake you have. I thought i would see a noticeable amount of rake with 1", but i can hardly tell honestly.

Posted

Well, I have gone and pulled out my level kit. I don't know what it was but it rode like crap. Maybe its because my ranchos have 74,000km on them and they're just too dead to handle that extra stress from the leveling block. I am either going to buy a set of used black stock shocks or upgrade to rancho quick lifts.

Posted (edited)

 

lol fair point, i imagine it would look like it was squatting. Just glancing at mine sometimes looks like the front end is higher than the rear. Really depends on the amount of factory rake you have. I thought i would see a noticeable amount of rake with 1", but i can hardly tell honestly.

 

These trucks are designed funny, even though the fenders are level from ground to fender lip, the truck is not level. I bet if you measured from ground to frame at the front and back of the truck it would be nose high.

Edited by projectsummit
Posted

Well ist my turn to show off what I have done to my truck because of this forum. Thanks to all that have provide help to those that needed it.

 

I installed Bilstein 5100's with the fronts at the .75 setting and add 1" leveling blocks. Lifetime alignment at Firestone

 

First pic is before and a clean truck. Second pic is after and a dirty truck. Front is 38" high and rear is 39.5" high

 

Josh

USCG Retired

Support Search and Rescue................Get lost

post-138767-0-55101500-1426974026_thumb.jpg

post-138767-0-55101500-1426974026_thumb.jpg

post-138767-0-55101500-1426974026_thumb.jpg

post-138767-0-55101500-1426974026_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...