Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Northern Sierra Enthusiast

Northern Sierra

Posted
Posted

Has anyone experienced abs/stabilitrak lights coming on or problems with shift point after upping the tire size.

I'm looking at going with the 275/65R20 Duratracs 34" vs the stock 31" SRA's

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

Habs Enthusiast

Habs

Posted
Posted

stock offset wheels will rub the sway bar and upper control arms with anything over 285

 

Wha? My buddy has stock 20" with 305/55R20 tires on only a 2.5" RCX level.

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
Posted

 

Wha? My buddy has stock 20" with 305/55R20 tires on only a 2.5" RCX level.

ask him to check his sway bar and upper control arms. Mine rubbed with 305's and others have said their 295's rubbed.
nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
Posted

I added 1" rear blocks. This gave my truck 1.5" of rake from the fender measurements. Cab measurements are now dead level.gallery_140298_3351_1643997.jpg

  • Like 1
Kerrslight Enthusiast

Kerrslight

Posted
Posted

I added 1" rear blocks. This gave my truck 1.5" of rake from the fender measurements. Cab measurements are now dead level.gallery_140298_3351_1643997.jpg

 

What blocks did you use? Looking to do the same to mine as when I put anything in the bed it sags an inch or so.

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
Posted

 

Thanks. Is your truck leveled up front too? If so what size level did you go with? I've got the 2.5", just wondering how the 1"block in the back would compare to yours. For all I know you've got the same kit.

I have 2" rancho quick lifts in the front. My rear leafs had sagged about 1/2" beacuse of how many miles are on my truck. Yours will sit about the same just half inch higher all around. I have 1.5" of rake, you can compare by measuring your fenders.

Habs Enthusiast

Habs

Posted
Posted

ask him to check his sway bar and upper control arms. Mine rubbed with 305's and others have said their 295's rubbed.

 

Yeah you're right, you can see the rub marks on his sway bar on the driver's side and UCA on passenger side.

T-Town-Z Enthusiast

T-Town-Z

Posted
Posted

Has anyone experienced abs/stabilitrak lights coming on or problems with shift point after upping the tire size.

I'm looking at going with the 275/65R20 Duratracs 34" vs the stock 31" SRA's

I've been running this size (34") for about a year now. No abs lights in that time. As for the shift points, I didnt really notice any changes there. I've been really happy with this tire size. It looks good and isn't so wide that it brings down your fuel mileage by much. It does change your speedometer reading by a bit though.

T-Town-Z Enthusiast

T-Town-Z

Posted
Posted

I literally registered to ask this exact question. Been reading this post for the last few days, and if I decide to pull the trigger on a 15 Sierra it's getting the leveling kit and tire package before it even makes it to 100 miles on the odometer. In the long run, I don't want something that won't fit in most parking garages in the city, or a personal garage when we finally decide to move.

 

At this point, it looks like kits are readily available for trucks with and without the All Terrain package, correct?

Your roofline should be OK, it's that "On-Star" antenna that will get whacked !

geauxtigers Enthusiast

geauxtigers

Posted
Posted

had a little break from the texas flooding weather to install my RC 2.5 level friday night and got the tires mounted saturday morning.

not the best pics but I LOVE it now...should have come like this from the factory.

photo%201_zpsasrdqufe.jpgphoto%202_zps0dayzmlp.jpglevel kit is RC 2.5

toyo open country MT 33x12.5x20

Love the look of your truck and i really want to do the same set up. Did the level and tires affect the ride or gas mileage drastically? Also, do you have any rubbing on the fenders, sway bar, or UCA? I've seen some post saying that 33x12.5x20s will rub the sway bar and UCA at full lock with the same stock wheels. They say you can't feel it but after inspection you can see where it rubs in pictures that theyve posted.

JUSTINASS Enthusiast

JUSTINASS

Posted
Posted

Love the look of your truck and i really want to do the same set up. Did the level and tires affect the ride or gas mileage drastically? Also, do you have any rubbing on the fenders, sway bar, or UCA? I've seen some post saying that 33x12.5x20s will rub the sway bar and UCA at full lock with the same stock wheels. They say you can't feel it but after inspection you can see where it rubs in pictures that theyve posted.

I bought the truck used with 20k miles and it was stock height with stock tires. I actually think it rides better - but i think a lot has to do with the new tires vs the factory tires...much smoother ride. Yet at the same time i can tell they are MT tires, kinda hard to explain. They are very quite considering they are a MT tire though - i am very impressed with that. As far as the level is concerned - i can't tell difference in the ride at all, just when i go to get out and its a longer drop to the ground ha ha.

Gas mileage was affected - how much?? 1-1.5 mpg is my guess...they are HEAVY tires compared to stock.

There is a slight rub/contact with sway bar - none on the UCA that i have seen. I try to avoid full lock steering when possible though. I will get pics later today.

quise2024 Enthusiast

quise2024

Posted
Posted

What do you guys consider to be a reasonable price to have my truck leveled by a shop?

 

Also I was looking on RC site and they only offer 2/2.5" leveling? I thought there were 1 & 1.5" kits available as well, thinking 2"+ would give you the front end being higher than the rear. Or is to get you to buy the blocks for the back to fix that?

 

Sorry if these questions are common knowledge or sound basic, I'm trying to learn as I go :)

 

 

Thanks in advance

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 81mmcat
      Higher oil pressure after DFM shut off

      By 81mmcat · Posted

      Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • Coastie05
      It's Been a Long Time...

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Welcome back!
    • davester
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By davester · Posted

      not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...