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Posted

Read through almost the entire thread. Until i decided on motofab 2" front leveling under strut spacer. Will be doing the installation myself and posting the results. Received the kit already and just need to gather the tools necessary. Hoping for a 3/4" rake.

Current stock height front 36.75" and rear 39.5" Truck is a 2017 ltz z71 4x4 for reference. Spacer measures 1.25" which If iam correct a 1:2 ratio would produce 2.5" lift but we shall see.6cc8efd1e6909f45f21f4a2225a4d8a7.jpg

7fe36d960798daffd2484238727331e8.jpg

 

 

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So I have this kit as well. Similar to you I read through the sea of posts and decided on the motofab. Mainly based on construction/material, looks and price. So far I love it.

 

One thing about this (I don't know about the other brands) is that you need to install the bolts from the top down to ensure clearance of the front axle.

 

This requires disconnect of the ball joint from the upper control arm. Not a big deal but if the ball joint doesn't come loose by tapping it, you need a tool.

 

I don't have the tool and had to put everything back together again... that is why I am posting this.

 

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Posted

So I have this kit as well. Similar to you I read through the sea of posts and decided on the motofab. Mainly based on construction/material, looks and price. So far I love it.

 

One thing about this (I don't know about the other brands) is that you need to install the bolts from the top down to ensure clearance of the front axle.

 

This requires disconnect of the ball joint from the upper control arm. Not a big deal but if the ball joint doesn't come loose by tapping it, you need a tool.

 

I don't have the tool and had to put everything back together again... that is why I am posting this.

 

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I will try the hammer technique on the knuckle; my old man has a pretty good stock of tools so I will look for something that can help me remove it.

 

 

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Posted

I will try the hammer technique on the knuckle; my old man has a pretty good stock of tools so I will look for something that can help me remove it.

 

 

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It is funny but it is the hammer on the knuckle technique that made me choose to have this done by my dealer. I know it costs but it has the potential of costing me more if I run into problems. Also, calling a modification "a dealer installed option" is a good sales line (imo)! Chances are that you won't have any problems, you will save money and be proud of your accomplishment! I did a lot of searching and I think MotoFab is the best value. I have found their customer service lacking but perhaps this is how they can offer good prices on their products!

Posted

It is funny but it is the hammer on the knuckle technique that made me choose to have this done by my dealer. I know it costs but it has the potential of costing me more if I run into problems. Also, calling a modification "a dealer installed option" is a good sales line (imo)! Chances are that you won't have any problems, you will save money and be proud of your accomplishment! I did a lot of searching and I think MotoFab is the best value. I have found their customer service lacking but perhaps this is how they can offer good prices on their products!

Gathered tools today and probably tomorrow I will tackle this job since today is family time :)

Will review youtube videos once again along with Motofab provided instructions.

 

 

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Posted

Guys,



I've literally read a thousand posts on tire sizes, and I am more confused now than when I started :)



I have a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 6.2L 4x2 Denali on order. When the truck comes in, the dealer is going to install a leveling kit (I don't know which one, but I do know it will be one that works perfectly with the MRC on the Denali).



I am planning to keep the 20" factory rims and replace the tires with something more aggressive to fill the wheel wells out more.



My question is this: What is the maximum tire size I can go with to avoid any rubbing with zero modifications (other than my level kit)?



To be clear, I don't want to do any cutting, trimming, zip tying, etc. or have to add spacers.



From what I read there are so many opinions on this.



I know with 100% certainty that 275/60/R20's will fit, but these aren't much different than factory tires. However, what about the following sizes:



275/65/R20


285/60/R20


295/60/R20


295/55/R20


305/55/R20



Some say all these will fit with no rub, and others say some do and some don't. Can someone who has tried and tested this please give me some advice. Thanks!



PS: If it makes a difference I'm looking at BFG All-Terrain A/T KO2's, Toyo Open Country AT2's or Nitto Terra Grappler G2's... I also know that not all these tires are not available in all the sizes above.


Posted

Ok guys, my first post on the forum here. Not newbie to forums by any means, but this is my first Silverado (Came over to the dark/light side after owning 3 tacomas)...

 

Was hoping my first post wouldn't be a quesiton but it is. I installed the RC 2" leveling kit for my 2016 Silverado LT Z71 Double Cab 4x4. The install went great actually, just over 2 hours and that was mostly spent on the driver's side since it was the first side I did and I learned the tricks as I moved to the passenger side. Anyway, post-install and after driving it out to dinner it handles great and drives fine. Haven't got it aligned yet because the local shops aren't open. However, I've "settled" to about 1.5" of lift. Was wondering if anyone else has had this before? I was expecting a full 2" of lift, and it actually had close to it initially until I drove it around. The front measurements were 36 1/4" pre-lift, 38 1/8" right after I dropped the jack, and after driving it around I'm down to right at 37 3/4", maybe a smidge more.

Posted

Ok guys, my first post on the forum here. Not newbie to forums by any means, but this is my first Silverado (Came over to the dark/light side after owning 3 tacomas)...

 

Was hoping my first post wouldn't be a quesiton but it is. I installed the RC 2" leveling kit for my 2016 Silverado LT Z71 Double Cab 4x4. The install went great actually, just over 2 hours and that was mostly spent on the driver's side since it was the first side I did and I learned the tricks as I moved to the passenger side. Anyway, post-install and after driving it out to dinner it handles great and drives fine. Haven't got it aligned yet because the local shops aren't open. However, I've "settled" to about 1.5" of lift. Was wondering if anyone else has had this before? I was expecting a full 2" of lift, and it actually had close to it initially until I drove it around. The front measurements were 36 1/4" pre-lift, 38 1/8" right after I dropped the jack, and after driving it around I'm down to right at 37 3/4", maybe a smidge more.

I tried installing mine yesterday and was not successful with the balljoint coming loose of the knuckle. Called a few shops and the dealership and labor cost is $150 plus alignment. Or $399 at dealership with kit,install and align. Thinking ill pull the trigger if it is a procomp 2.25" and just sell my motofab.

 

Anyways to answer your question. Dont quote me for it but from previous experience on a canyon level lift and a f150 level. I recall gaining some lift back after the alignment. Hope if turns out that way for you too.

 

 

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Posted

Is it worth saving the $35 on a knockoff kit or just buy the Motofab? They are surprisingly cheaper on ebay and I'm about to pull the trigger. I see they sell a lot of 3" kits on ebay as well. I'd love a 3" but have read about all the negatives to it.

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Posted

After weeks of researching this I went with the motofab.

 

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Posted

Not sure why there are so many Nancy's about tapping the side of ballpoint with a hammer. The arms are made to withstand more than a dicktap with a hammer. It took 3 or 4 light hits to get the ball joint to pop up.

 

 

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Posted

Not sure why there are so many Nancy's about tapping the side of ballpoint with a hammer. The arms are made to withstand more than a dicktap with a hammer. It took 3 or 4 light hits to get the ball joint to pop up.

 

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Lol! I hammered mine with a BFH and hard but nothing till i just gave up. Maybe its in the technique although I don't there is much to it

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Got my new tires and lift/level installed. Pictures don't do it justice. The 275/60 R20 Duratracs rub the carpet slightly at full lock but NBD.

 

- Motofab 2" Level (lower strut spacer)

- 1" lift block in the rear

- HELLWIG 987 helper springs

- Goodyear Duratracs 275/60R20

 

My hope was to keep most of the factory rake and in the end I still have 2" of rake. The Hellwig's stiffin up the ride a tiny bit but i actually like the way it handles. So far very happy with the set up.

 

2a12d05c4c038f17e87c918c0b20ef67.jpg

 

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Edited by Sierra Jon
  • Like 2
Posted

Wish wish wish it didn't take much to fit my old 295/70/18's under the 14 Silverado. I just don't wanna have to cut crossmember and/or front diff

 

2.5 Level + Body Lift will get you a cheap 4" Will need a spacer with stockers, or about +6 offset to run that size. I've seen at least one guy on here running that size on Nitto mud tires with just a level and claimed to only trim the lining. Probably a street queen though.

Posted (edited)

Not sure why there are so many Nancy's about tapping the side of ballpoint with a hammer. The arms are made to withstand more than a dicktap with a hammer. It took 3 or 4 light hits to get the ball joint to pop up.

 

 

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I have literally installed dozens of upper and lower spacers and never had to pop a BJ yet, 15 minutes a side from jack going up to jack coming down, all you need to do is remove the swaybar link nut and pry the UCA down with a bar. And why are you guys paying so much for spacers, buy the elcheapo aluminum jobs from Summit, less than 50 bucks for a 1/2 inch upper and 1/2 inch lower will get you 2 inches of lift.

Edited by last truck
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