2014+ Leveling Kits

[mavrik2747]

I've searched and have gone through a lot of pages on this thread, but no way am I getting through all 400!

 

So I have a 2wd V6 and the nose dive is killing me. I'm thinking that a 2" level would probably best, so there's still a little rake but be close enough to level.

 

What's a good, cheap level kit for under the strut?

 

What's the tallest tire I can fit without rubbing? I'm looking at something like a 295/70/17. Since its a V6, don't want anything real wide to try and keep the weight of the tire down.

[JKHutch]

Ok guys I’m new to the forum and this has probably been answered a hundred times but it’s another wheel tire question. I ordered a 2018 4X4 1500 crew standard bed with max tow and 6.2 engine. It should be here a couple of weeks. I have already got a Motofab 2.5”front 2” rear level kit that the dealer is going to install when it comes in. I also have ordered Moto metal 970 20X10 -24 offset wrapped with 295/55R20 ridge grapplers to install on truck when it comes in. Where should I expect to trim and what, will zip tying the liner fix the problem, or should I expect nothing at all?  Where does it usually rub on this set up? Just trying to know what to expect. Thanks to any replies. 

Edited January 17, 2018 by JKHutch

[techsan15]

4 hours ago, JKHutch said:

Ok guys I’m new to the forum and this has probably been answered a hundred times but it’s another wheel tire question. I ordered a 2018 4X4 1500 crew standard bed with max tow and 6.2 engine. It should be here a couple of weeks. I have already got a Motofab 2.5”front 2” rear level kit that the dealer is going to install when it comes in. I also have ordered Moto metal 970 20X10 -24 offset wrapped with 295/55R20 ridge grapplers to install on truck when it comes in. Where should I expect to trim and what, will zip tying the liner fix the problem, or should I expect nothing at all?  Where does it usually rub on this set up? Just trying to know what to expect. Thanks to any replies. 

 

Mine barely rubs (and i mean ever so slightly) in reverse at full lock with a 20x10 -24 offset and 285/55s for what it's worth. Zip tie may do the trick. The 295/55s are only .4" wider and .4" taller than my set up, meaning only .2" closer to everything.

 

Keep in mind i have Terra Grapplers though so the Ridge Grapplers may be a tad bigger than the basic measurements.

 

Really doesn't answer your question but gives you an idea.

Edited January 17, 2018 by techsan15

[1badtie]

On 1/14/2018 at 11:41 AM, 1badtie said:

has anyone replaced ball joints yet? I have a 2.5" level and at 30k miles getting a lot of noise from them lately thinking its time to replace? want something that lasts longer than 30k miles anything out there?

update: local dealer called said my sway bar bushings were bad and needed to be replaced and that was making the noise. This will be covered under warranty. My warranty expires in 2 weeks. 

[djriv11]

On 8/29/2017 at 11:03 AM, Fix29 said:

 

Thanks. 20x10 Moto Metal 970 (-24 offset) and 305/55 Toyo AT.

Have you had any vibration issues due to the 3 degree taper on your rear readylift blocks?

[djriv11]

Anyone out there can say in full confidence the tapered rear blocks haven't given them any driveline vibration issues?? Keep finding more and more people saying they've got vibration issues in the 60-80 MPH range, and no one to confirm they haven't. I've got the blocks ready to install, but all these claims have me paranoid!! Anyone have problem/vibration-free experience after the rear +1" block install?? 

[Fix29]

Have you had any vibration issues due to the 3 degree taper on your rear readylift blocks?

I have not had any issues to date. It should be noted that I do not put a ton of miles on my truck however. I probably have less than 4k miles on the level/lift.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[huntr1117]

Anyone out there can say in full confidence the tapered rear blocks haven't given them any driveline vibration issues?? Keep finding more and more people saying they've got vibration issues in the 60-80 MPH range, and no one to confirm they haven't. I've got the blocks ready to install, but all these claims have me paranoid!! Anyone have problem/vibration-free experience after the rear +1" block install?? 

I have 3" readylift tapered blocks on my 17 with no vibration at 80 mph. I had the same setup on my old 08 and no vibration with that truck either. I think ppl that have the vibrations might be caused by something else or they could just have bad luck. Make sure to properly torque the u bolts after the install and check them after a few hundred miles. Keep your tires balanced and rotated regularly. You should be good to go.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[djriv11]

4 minutes ago, huntr1117 said:

I have 3" readylift tapered blocks on my 17 with no vibration at 80 mph. I had the same setup on my old 08 and no vibration with that truck either. I think ppl that have the vibrations might be caused by something else or they could just have bad luck. Make sure to properly torque the u bolts after the install and check them after a few hundred miles. Keep your tires balanced and rotated regularly. You should be good to go.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

Appreciate the feedback! That is reassuring. One thing ive been wondering, when re-torquing the U-bolts, did you do anything special to keep the leaf springs coming together evenly/properly? Possibly just torquing in a cross-pattern? I saw one guys video (albeit on a 'yota) where he pressed them together with a c-clamp, and would tighten the nuts a bit, retighten the c-clamp, and so on until fully torqued. Seemed unnecessary but got me thinking there is probably something to be said about ensuring the leafs are back in the proper position when the U-bolts are fully torqued. 

[cowboysfanmd]

I have 3" readylift tapered blocks on my 17 with no vibration at 80 mph. I had the same setup on my old 08 and no vibration with that truck either. I think ppl that have the vibrations might be caused by something else or they could just have bad luck. Make sure to properly torque the u bolts after the install and check them after a few hundred miles. Keep your tires balanced and rotated regularly. You should be good to go.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[huntr1117]

Appreciate the feedback! That is reassuring. One thing ive been wondering, when re-torquing the U-bolts, did you do anything special to keep the leaf springs coming together evenly/properly? Possibly just torquing in a cross-pattern? I saw one guys video (albeit on a 'yota) where he pressed them together with a c-clamp, and would tighten the nuts a bit, retighten the c-clamp, and so on until fully torqued. Seemed unnecessary but got me thinking there is probably something to be said about ensuring the leafs are back in the proper position when the U-bolts are fully torqued. 

I didn't use a c clamp. Just make sure to do 1 side of the truck at a time and on a level surface. When you tighten the u bolts make sure the weight of the truck is on the ground. Tighten in a cross pattern and try to get the bottom plate as level with the ground as you can. I wrote a brief write up on an old post. If I can find it I'll post it on here.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[djriv11]

33 minutes ago, Fix29 said:

I have not had any issues to date. It should be noted that I do not put a ton of miles on my truck however. I probably have less than 4k miles on the level/lift.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

Thank you. My thought is that if the driveline angles are right, you should either have vibration issues or not.. hopefully this isn't as much of a wear and tear issue like ball joints as I do rack up more than 20k a year. 

[huntr1117]

I didn't use a c clamp. Just make sure to do 1 side of the truck at a time and on a level surface. When you tighten the u bolts make sure the weight of the truck is on the ground. Tighten in a cross pattern and try to get the bottom plate as level with the ground as you can. I wrote a brief write up on an old post. If I can find it I'll post it on here.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Here's a post I made about replacing the blocks a while ago... 
You can just jack up rear leaf spring. I installed my rear blocks a couple of weeks ago and it about 20 mins. ON A LEVEL SURFACE. Place a 4x4 block on your jack so you have plenty of lift. Position the block/jack on the front side of the leaf spring directly in front of the factory rear blocks. Don't put pressure on the jack yet. Take off the u bolts. Now jack up the spring enough to remove the factory block and install the new one. Slowly lower the jack. You should notice the rear slightly roll into place. This is why you need a level surface. It helps to have someone else there to watch and make sure everything lines up while you lower the jack. Once it's lowered all the way reinstall the u bolts. Do one side at a time. It's very easy.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[joeglide2017]

11 hours ago, djriv11 said:

Anyone out there can say in full confidence the tapered rear blocks haven't given them any driveline vibration issues?? Keep finding more and more people saying they've got vibration issues in the 60-80 MPH range, and no one to confirm they haven't. I've got the blocks ready to install, but all these claims have me paranoid!! Anyone have problem/vibration-free experience after the rear +1" block install?? 

I had a vibration at 65+ mph prior to installing the MotoFab 3" leveling kit with 2" tapered rear blocks on my 2017 Sierra 1500 Elevation Edition. After the install the vibration is gone. 

[NVislisel]

Here is my 2016 Z71. Went with Nitto Ridge Grappler 295/55r20’s on Scorpion 20x9’s with -12 offset. Also went with RC 2.5” lift and RC UCA’s. Had to trim the slightest bit off of the inner mud flap in the front, no rubbing now.