Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
12 hours ago, Jaime Wawatusi said:

Got the new wheels and tires. No rubbing at all now. 

Screenshot_20180301-213028.png

Truck looks fantastic!

Posted
On 3/1/2018 at 6:35 PM, Jaime Wawatusi said:

Got the new wheels and tires. No rubbing at all now. 

Screenshot_20180301-213028.png

What size/offset wheels and size on the tires?

Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, Arkangel said:

What size/offset wheels and size on the tires?

 

 

295/55/r20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers.    These tires ride MUCH better than the terra grappler g2's and look better. 

 

Fuel maverick 20x9 +1 offset

 

 

No rubbing. 

Edited by Jaime Wawatusi
Posted
On 2/24/2018 at 7:14 PM, Daly said:

Yeah it's not the height of the tire, it's the width that cause a rub on the sway bar, control arm or fender. The height will usually only cause rub on the fender. 

 

 

Update, it was shown, over 33" on stock rims rubs fender, Wider than 11.5 rubs control arm.  so it's a bit of both. 

Posted

It’s been a little over a year since I’ve wrote in hear so I figured I’d give y’all an update on my truck. 3” Supreme Suspensions leveling kit with stick lift in the rear. 27,000 miles on it now and still no issues. I drive my truck on pavement 95% of the time also so there is no major wear and tear from off roading on the suspension. Truck still rides great, gives me the clearance I want to fit the tires I want. Below are 3 pictures of my truck with 3 different setups on it with the measurements of how tall the front and rear fenders are with the tires an wheels that are pictured. Set one is 20x9 with stock tires. Set two are 18x10 -24 offset motometals with 33x12.50x18 mud claws on it. Third setup is 33x12.50x20 Toto MT’s with the stock 20x9 wheels. As expected the only tires that scrubbed were the Toyos on the control arms. A set of spacers will fix that problem tho. The other 2 sets cleared with no problem at all. Hopefully this helps someone out! 

9D46A152-96A7-4CED-983F-3096BB5D34F2.jpeg

1B9B0508-AC5A-4153-88C9-3CB35703999A.jpeg

C85BA4F4-548A-4EBD-9002-01F89293C0A4.jpeg

Posted
 
 
Update, it was shown, over 33" on stock rims rubs fender, Wider than 11.5 rubs control arm.  so it's a bit of both. 
Jamie,
Truck is looking good with that setup...I am on the verge of doing a 2 inch lift on mine as well. I have the black insert 22 inch rims and really like them but it needs more tire around the rim to look balanced to me...Can you post any direct side pics of yours...I would like to see what your fender to top of tire distance looks like as well with the changes. Thanks.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Screenshot_20180301-213101.thumb.png.7e987151cbc5a8b97eee39fdeb650df0.png

9 hours ago, GMC_SD_Ult_16 said:

Jamie,
Truck is looking good with that setup...I am on the verge of doing a 2 inch lift on mine as well. I have the black insert 22 inch rims and really like them but it needs more tire around the rim to look balanced to me...Can you post any direct side pics of yours...I would like to see what your fender to top of tire distance looks like as well with the changes. Thanks.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

I agree. Rim is too big at 22" to look right. The 20"s look much better imo.

Edited by Jaime Wawatusi
Posted

I have a 2018 Seirra Denali 1500 with a 6.2 and added a RC 2.5” leveling kit. With leveling kit in and when 4 wheel drive engaged it have a pretty good vibration when engine is under a load. Anyone else have this? Take leveling kit out and it goes away. 

Posted
1 hour ago, JSB81 said:

I have a 2018 Seirra Denali 1500 with a 6.2 and added a RC 2.5” leveling kit. With leveling kit in and when 4 wheel drive engaged it have a pretty good vibration when engine is under a load. Anyone else have this? Take leveling kit out and it goes away. 

Did you change the UCAs when you did the level?  

Posted
17 minutes ago, TRG said:

Did you change the UCAs when you did the level?  

I had it professionally done. I don’t believe that’s necessary with mag ride for a leveling kit?

 

17 minutes ago, TRG said:

Did you change the UCAs when you did the level?  

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...
    • Thks, and actually it was my bad, because here in this post there is someone showing the correct wire position as well. My bad... But thank you a lot with the help as well. I was able to find and buy a 10 channel VPM that came from a sister silverado of mine. The same year, same mode, same trim, same everything. 2022 Silverado 1500 LTD LTZ (pre-refresh). I also found to buy just the bottom mirror part that has the cameras, so way cheap than the full mirror. + a used front camera. I did test everything together, cameras, cables and the VPM.... everything worked EXCEPT my original Bed camera and the backup grid lines. I think the reason is because now I need to do the VPM reprogram. I sent a msg White Automotive & Media Service to confirm that it is the problem and that they can do it service for me case.   Once I get it 100% done I will post here result....
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...