Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

kylant Enthusiast

kylant

Posted
Posted
On 12/20/2018 at 11:28 AM, acinquegrana said:

Going with the readylift 1/2" hub centric wheel spacers all around with extended thread lug nuts. My local speed shop uses the same combo on their suburban with a 6" lift on 35 x 12's and they swear by it (only used to match width of front wheels). They have been in the game over 30 years so I can trust that. And as an engineer in my work we figure atleast 7 threads to be fully enganged, which is what this will provide. See pics.. Keep in mind the spacer in the pics was one he had in the back room to show me.
 

can you post a part number or link to the extended thread lug nuts??

 

I have a set of the wheel spacers. I may choose to run those. I did try them a while back, but noticed vibration about 1/2 block from the house. I have new control arms, but I may return them. I don't know about the installation of them. If I do install them, there is no going back (the spindle mounting hole needs to be chased bigger). It might be better to just run the spacers. I will probably end up selling this truck and going back to an HD

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted

I don't have a part number but the brand is Gorilla. Here is a picture of what I have. I did not buy the lugs from this site, but this is it...
3d1f44bf3553598c56efef69a3ad76d1.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

kylant Enthusiast

kylant

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, acinquegrana said:

I don't have a part number but the brand is Gorilla. Here is a picture of what I have. I did not buy the lugs from this site, but this is it...
3d1f44bf3553598c56efef69a3ad76d1.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

great, thank you.

did you do spacers on the rear as well?

  • Like 1
acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted

Yes I did. So far so good. I torqued them to 140ftlb, drove a few hundred miles, checked and good to go.

The only vibration i get is at 75-80 mph ---BUT--- it did that before (thats a whole separate issue, some of you probably know...)

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted

BORA Wheel Spacers are the BEST and SAFEST Spacers on the market!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted
BORA Wheel Spacers are the BEST and SAFEST Spacers on the market!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm sure they are just as good as the ready lift spacers. Both are hub centric and have a spigot for the wheel

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
I'm sure they are just as good as the ready lift spacers. Both are hub centric and have a spigot for the wheel

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

 

As a teenager, years back I had a (That time the best available) mechanic add wheel spacers on my Buick T Type in order to accept a set of custom wheels I just had to have. Approximately two months later, while making a hard turn and with no warning, my right wheel flew off sending me into a tall curb and narrowly missing a child on a bike. Who knows, at that time I didn’t have a choice and if I did I wouldn’t have known to look into it so I just took the word of a certified mechanic.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
kylant Enthusiast

kylant

Posted
Posted

what is the max level hight for the stamped steel arms? i hear about the ball joint issues

I have the readylift 2.25 with their control arms. to fix this rubbing maybe I will go back to stock arms??

thoughts?

jgraves13 Enthusiast

jgraves13

Posted
Posted
what is the max level hight for the stamped steel arms? i hear about the ball joint issues
I have the readylift 2.25 with their control arms. to fix this rubbing maybe I will go back to stock arms??
thoughts?


Stock arms will rub too. Get different offset wheels, or wheel spacers (do research on which ones to get, BORA is popular here).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted
 
As a teenager, years back I had a (That time the best available) mechanic add wheel spacers on my Buick T Type in order to accept a set of custom wheels I just had to have. Approximately two months later, while making a hard turn and with no warning, my right wheel flew off sending me into a tall curb and narrowly missing a child on a bike. Who knows, at that time I didn’t have a choice and if I did I wouldn’t have known to look into it so I just took the word of a certified mechanic.
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That is unfortunate. I trust the ready lifts as much as i would the BORA spacers. I just got a good deal on my set up.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

tfp108 New Member

tfp108

Posted
Posted

So, after hours of reading this from at least page 300 to current, I still have some questions.

 

I want to get some leveling on my 2017 Sierra.  I also want to keep the 22" factory wheels.  I called Rough Country and they told me if I run the 2.5" kit that I had to run 2" wheel spacers to use the factory wheels.  I called ReadyLift, and they told me if I get the 2.25" kit with new control arms, that I had to run a 1/2" wheel spacer to keep my factory wheels.  I can't seem to find a lot of people mentioning the need for spacers just to keep their factory wheels.


I'm leaning more toward the ReadyLift kit, and getting some 2.25" or 3" rear blocks, and I'm also going to up the tire size from 285/45R22 to something like a 285/55R22 or a 305/45R22.  I just want to know if anyone else has done something similar, what the results were and if I really need to run a wheel spacer just to keep my stock wheels.

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
So, after hours of reading this from at least page 300 to current, I still have some questions.  

I want to get some leveling on my 2017 Sierra.  I also want to keep the 22" factory wheels.  I called Rough Country and they told me if I run the 2.5" kit that I had to run 2" wheel spacers to use the factory wheels.  I called ReadyLift, and they told me if I get the 2.25" kit with new control arms, that I had to run a 1/2" wheel spacer to keep my factory wheels.  I can't seem to find a lot of people mentioning the need for spacers just to keep their factory wheels.

 

I'm leaning more toward the ReadyLift kit, and getting some 2.25" or 3" rear blocks, and I'm also going to up the tire size from 285/45R22 to something like a 285/55R22 or a 305/45R22.  I just want to know if anyone else has done something similar, what the results were and if I really need to run a wheel spacer just to keep my stock wheels.

 

 

Check out CST Performance Suspension, #1. lift will allow you to keep your stock wheels and stock track width. #2. Leveling with coilovers gives the best ride but may require new UCA’s and being leveled with coilovers will be a much more comfortable ride versus spacers. In addition, if you’re still under factory warranty it’s not a good idea to add spacers cause it’ll void your warranty on your suspension and possibly transmission if spotted by a technician. I started out with a level, bigger tires and new offset wheels and disliked the ride quality. GM looking to save money right now and voiding warranty is a great way, blaming you for any future issues.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Chevytruck16 Enthusiast

Chevytruck16

Posted
Posted
On 12/30/2016 at 5:49 PM, CHowell1991 said:

I got my 2015 leveled yesterday with 285/75r18s on stock wheels. 2.25" readylift. e9fb32455eb6e7a1ab4290d687ba3600.jpg4f06d63c867457887ff070665de117df.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do u have any problems at full lock?  My upper control arm is hitting something I don't know what. I think I need some wheel spacers to take care of that problem. I think I have a +30 range offset...........thanx

kylant Enthusiast

kylant

Posted
Posted
16 hours ago, tfp108 said:

So, after hours of reading this from at least page 300 to current, I still have some questions.

 

I want to get some leveling on my 2017 Sierra.  I also want to keep the 22" factory wheels.  I called Rough Country and they told me if I run the 2.5" kit that I had to run 2" wheel spacers to use the factory wheels.  I called ReadyLift, and they told me if I get the 2.25" kit with new control arms, that I had to run a 1/2" wheel spacer to keep my factory wheels.  I can't seem to find a lot of people mentioning the need for spacers just to keep their factory wheels.


I'm leaning more toward the ReadyLift kit, and getting some 2.25" or 3" rear blocks, and I'm also going to up the tire size from 285/45R22 to something like a 285/55R22 or a 305/45R22.  I just want to know if anyone else has done something similar, what the results were and if I really need to run a wheel spacer just to keep my stock wheels.

i have the readylift with the conrol arms. i had factory 22s with the 285/45. the tire just barely rubbed the leading arm of the control arm at full lock. maybe 1/16 of an inch.

i welded steering stops from the Zone kit (come with BDS kit as well) onto the lower control arm factory steering stops and the rubbing went away. there was about 1/4" clearance after.

 

I have a set of cognito control arms that have a much sharper angle to the ball joint on the front leading arm. i believe these will eliminate all rubbing with my new wheels and tires. however, i need to make sure they will work with the magneride sensing arm before I install. Once they are installed, there is no going back. I will be doing lots of investigating today. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • bwiese
      seat base height *lowering* (base 40/20/40 seat, 2026 1500 WT std cab)

      By bwiese · Posted

      Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • bwiese
      on-wheel cellphone control: 2026 1500 WT (2.7L 4WD std cab)

      By bwiese · Posted

      I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • Tyler Gibbs
      Travel Trailer 2024 2500 HD 6.6 Gas Engine ?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • sFrank
      2026 Silverado Range AFM DFM ECU loaction

      By sFrank · Posted

      So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • No F-bdy Bs
      Dave's Auto (custom engine builder) tear down of L8T

      By No F-bdy Bs · Posted

      Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...