2014+ Leveling Kits

[Daly]

23 hours ago, rhill1 said:

Have read a good bit of this thread but its massive. Seeing if i can get some advice. Have a 2017 Sierra SLT with a 2.25" level kit in the front only. Am looking at getting BFG KO2s put on next week. Keep goin back and forth between 275/60/20 and 275/65/20. I keep reading different tires will fit and won't fit. Also the stamped upper control arm issue. The shop that put the leveling kit said they will just put a steering top on when i get the tires. Is that a decent fix or solution to the rubbing issue? What size tires would y'all that have done it recommend? From what i can gather the 17s won't clear as big a tire as the 14 and 15s. Also any advice between ko2 and toyo at2? Any help would be great

You won't be rubbing your control arm with either the 275/60 or the 275/65, they are the same width as the stock 275/55's, just taller. With the 275/65 you may rub the back of the fender, it's considerably taller then stock at 34", which might be too tall for a 2.25" level. There are plenty of people running 275/60r20s on a stock truck with no rubbing. Rubbing becomes a problem on stock offset wheels when you go wider. I've seen plenty of people, including myself, run 285's on a leveled truck with out rubbing, but once you start getting into 295's and wider, it's likely to rub.

[Tx_operator87]

Have read a good bit of this thread but its massive. Seeing if i can get some advice. Have a 2017 Sierra SLT with a 2.25" level kit in the front only. Am looking at getting BFG KO2s put on next week. Keep goin back and forth between 275/60/20 and 275/65/20. I keep reading different tires will fit and won't fit. Also the stamped upper control arm issue. The shop that put the leveling kit said they will just put a steering top on when i get the tires. Is that a decent fix or solution to the rubbing issue? What size tires would y'all that have done it recommend? From what i can gather the 17s won't clear as big a tire as the 14 and 15s. Also any advice between ko2 and toyo at2? Any help would be great

My 2015 Silverado had the RHA bilsteins on the highest notch and barely, I mean barely rubbed with 33x12.5x20 Toyo at 2s. Got this 2016 2500hd and put a cognito level kit on it with bilsteins all around and 295/60/20 (33.9x11.6) and don't rub at all. Some one told me the 2500s wheel well is slightly bigger than the 1500s, but I dunno if it's correct or not, look into it, you could possibly fit a 34. Also, the toyos ride smoothe, are pretty quiet, and still look aggressive. Buddy of mine got 75k out of them

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[wepiii]

You won't be rubbing your control arm with either the 275/60 or the 275/65, they are the same width as the stock 275/55's, just taller. With the 275/65 you may rub the back of the fender, it's considerably taller then stock at 34", which might be too tall for a 2.25" level. There are plenty of people running 275/60r20s on a stock truck with no rubbing. Rubbing becomes a problem on stock offset wheels when you go wider. I've seen plenty of people, including myself, run 285's on a leveled truck with out rubbing, but once you start getting into 295's and wider, it's likely to rub.

Unfortunately this just isn’t correct. I know it should be, because on paper they aren’t wider, but since they are taller, a different part of the sidewall is contacting the UCA’s. I’m guessing you don’t have the stamped steel control arms. I made the mistake of believing what I read on this site, and on my 18, with stamped steel arms, I rub on factory wheels with 275/60r20. I’d love it if I didn’t, but I do.


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[TXGREEK]

Unfortunately this just isn’t correct. I know it should be, because on paper they aren’t wider, but since they are taller, a different part of the sidewall is contacting the UCA’s. I’m guessing you don’t have the stamped steel control arms. I made the mistake of believing what I read on this site, and on my 18, with stamped steel arms, I rub on factory wheels with 275/60r20. I’d love it if I didn’t, but I do.


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BINGO! You’re correct sir, same thing happened to me then you’ll need new wheels too. Mine was 2.25” level with new +1 offset 20x9 wheels which then allowed me to have 285/60/20 with slight rub on the inner wheel well liner.


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[Tx_operator87]

BINGO! You’re correct sir, same thing happened to me then you’ll need new wheels too. Mine was 2.25” level with new +1 offset 20x9 wheels which then allowed me to have 285/60/20 with slight rub on the inner wheel well liner.


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Are all these problems y'all were having stemming from the stamped arms? What is the difference between what was on the 14-15s and the stamped steel ones besides the material? I could Google, but thats no fun. My 1500 was a 15 and had no problems with the 33x12.5x20 toyos, do the stamped steel make that much of a difference?

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[TXGREEK]

Are all these problems y'all were having stemming from the stamped arms? What is the difference between what was on the 14-15s and the stamped steel ones besides the material? I could Google, but thats no fun. My 1500 was a 15 and had no problems with the 33x12.5x20 toyos, do the stamped steel make that much of a difference?

 

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Angles are different and yes, major difference which them requires new wheel

 

 

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[Tx_operator87]

Angles are different and yes, major difference which then requires new wheel


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So how would you correct it, get the 14-15 style arms? Or just a lift and some spacers?

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[ducklawyer]

So how would you correct it, get the 14-15 style arms? Or just a lift and some spacers?

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I have 285/65r18. They are 32.5x11.5 No rub. I’ve read that having 20s are different and that you’ll rub with an 11 wide. Some fix it with new control arms.


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[TXGREEK]

So how would you correct it, get the 14-15 style arms? Or just a lift and some spacers?

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If you’re going to get a lift then it’ll just work but I’d just get new aftermarket UCA’s and be done with it. Multiple good quality aftermarket uca’s out there, everyone knows my favorite is CST. I hated my leveled truck, had new Bilsteins and still ride Rough. I’ve got the CST 4.5” lift which allows you to keep your stock wheels, your choice up to 35” tires, keeping stock width and turning radius which is extremely rare in any lift. This would be my recommendation but cheapest is $1650 just for the lift plus rear shocks $100 each plus install. If you’re doing a level I’d 100% do a coil over leveling kit with new uca’s which cost same as the super high quality CST Lift. If you’re on a budget, 2.25” front leveling blocks and you’ll need new rear shocks if you add another inch to the rear block.

Imho, don’t rush into this, you’ll 100% regret it! Save up, you never go cheap on your suspension.


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[TXGREEK]

Do your homework, do the numbers yourself. Getting new uca’s is no 100% not going to rub. You want as much space for tire flexing as possible.

 

Level $200 plus

Level requires new UCA’s $500 plus

New wheels $1000 plus

New rear shocks if raising rear which you’ll most likely want to do $200

 

This is the cost of the badass CST 4.5” lift which keeps every thing stock width not needing spacers and stock turning radius

 

https://www.newlevelmotorsports.com/cskc3191.html

 

 

 

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[Daly]

I had 275/60r20s on my 2017 High Country about a month before trading it in. No level, stock wheels, no rub. Don't know what to tell you. But they weren't a problem. And yes the HC had stamped arms. 

[TXGREEK]

I had 275/60r20s on my 2017 High Country about a month before trading it in. No level, stock wheels, no rub. Don't know what to tell you. But they weren't a problem. And yes the HC had stamped arms. 

(Leveling Thread) It happens due to being leveled!


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[wepiii]

(Leveling Thread) It happens due to being leveled!


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Yep, this is the key. Mine wouldn’t rub stock, but the level makes it rub


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[TXGREEK]

You’d be surprised as to how many people actually put out misleading wrong information out there on leveling and tire size especially 15 1/2 - 18’s. In the past, I’ve called out a bunch of BS’ers claiming their tire larger sizes on these model years didn’t rub when leveled even some saying it didn’t rub cause their tires were already on before the level, lmao! And then find them down the road on another thread talking about their rubbing issues.

 

People: Leveling WILL cause rubbing issues on years 15 1/2 - 18’s GM 1500’s running 20” wheels when adding anything bigger than stock size tires. Another thing, leveling will cause your truck to ride rougher than stock especially adding E rated tires which is common on larger tires like 285/60/20’s. You’ll also need to buy new offset wheels in order to get the rubbing to stop and buying new uca’s doesn’t guarantee to stop the rubbing which is why I jumped on the “much smoother than leveling” Badass CST 4.5” lift.

 

When you consider the cost that goes into the leveling parts, wheels, shocks/struts and labor, it’s a no brainer!

 

You should never “ever” go cheap on your suspension, it’s your vehicles foundation.

 

Most trucks that are traded in are traded in due to bad riding trucks caused by people that want the look but don’t have a quality suspension, all lifts are not equal, you get what you pay for. If you’re on s budget? Save until you can afford to do it right cause then you’ll actually not only enjoy looking at your truck but you’ll love driving it too and not need a throw up bag and Advil for the ride along

 

 

 

 

 

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[Daly]

1 hour ago, TXGREEK said:

You’d be surprised as to how many people actually put out misleading wrong information out there on leveling and tire size especially 15 1/2 - 18’s. In the past, I’ve called out a bunch of BS’ers claiming their tire larger sizes on these model years didn’t rub when leveled even some saying it didn’t rub cause their tires were already on before the level, lmao! And then find them down the road on another thread talking about their rubbing issues.

 

People: Leveling WILL cause rubbing issues on years 15 1/2 - 18’s GM 1500’s running 20” wheels when adding anything bigger than stock size tires. Another thing, leveling will cause your truck to ride rougher than stock especially adding E rated tires which is common on larger tires like 285/60/20’s. You’ll also need to buy new offset wheels in order to get the rubbing to stop and buying new uca’s doesn’t guarantee to stop the rubbing which is why I jumped on the “much smoother than leveling” Badass CST 4.5” lift.

 

When you consider the cost that goes into the leveling parts, wheels, shocks/struts and labor, it’s a no brainer!

 

You should never “ever” go cheap on your suspension, it’s your vehicles foundation.

 

Most trucks that are traded in are traded in due to bad riding trucks caused by people that want the look but don’t have a quality suspension, all lifts are not equal, you get what you pay for. If you’re on s budget? Save until you can afford to do it right cause then you’ll actually not only enjoy looking at your truck but you’ll love driving it too and not need a throw up bag and Advil for the ride along

 

 

 

 

 

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That's rich coming from the wealth of miss information I've seen you post before getting it deleted lol

Edited March 23, 2019 by Daly