Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
2 hours ago, Sierra Jon said:

That looks awesome. What brand kit and size tires did you go with?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

I went with the 2.25in readylift kit with the upper control arms and 33x12.5r22 nitto ridge grapplers. Looks way better in person I just suck at taking pictures 

Posted
I went with the 2.25in readylift kit with the upper control arms and 33x12.5r22 nitto ridge grapplers. Looks way better in person I just suck at taking pictures 
Lol thanks. It looks perfect dude seriously.

I really didn't want to go load e tires because of the weight so I'm contemplating either staying with the same size tire or downsizing to 20".

First world problems...

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Posted
42 minutes ago, Sierra Jon said:

Lol thanks. It looks perfect dude seriously.

I really didn't want to go load e tires because of the weight so I'm contemplating either staying with the same size tire or downsizing to 20".

First world problems...

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

Nitto ridge grapplers are load f 12ply

Posted
Nitto ridge grapplers are load f 12ply
I think you can get them in both but you see my dilemma. You notice a huge difference?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Posted
4 hours ago, jimbrown1 said:

RC shocks are terrible, I wouldn't even consider them.  If you plan to tow, consider replacing the rear blocks with something a little taller to keep some rake from rear to front so the back won't squat and be lower than the front when you tow.  

Good to know, any recommendations for rear blocks ? 

Posted
4 hours ago, Sierra Jon said:

I would suggest going Bilstein 5100 all the way around. You'll have 0-1.8" adjustability up front and 0-1" in the back... I'd run the front on the highest setting and leave the back at normal ride height. You'd be able to maintain a little bit of rake for towing.

If I didn't have magneride that's what I would do.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

Excellent, that makes sense. Where’s the best place to purchase Bilsteins ? 

Posted
18 hours ago, RJ3 said:

Excellent, that makes sense. Where’s the best place to purchase Bilsteins ? 

Bilstien's are great...but another option is Eibach...they are american made and also have a package that comes with front springs (Pro Truck)...worth some research...

  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/18/2020 at 7:25 AM, Sierra Jon said:

Any other Denali owners running the Zone 2" leveling kit? I see good reviews on the composite spacer but was hoping to hear first hand.

Also how's the magneride after install of relocation bracket? I'm concerned there is no magneride recalibration necessary...

I love the magneride but it's been an expensive obstacle for a simple level kit...

Thanks,
Jon

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

 

23 hours ago, Sierra Jon said:

I would suggest going Bilstein 5100 all the way around. You'll have 0-1.8" adjustability up front and 0-1" in the back... I'd run the front on the highest setting and leave the back at normal ride height. You'd be able to maintain a little bit of rake for towing.

If I didn't have magneride that's what I would do.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

I've got a Denali and installed the X-ineering Magneride bypass kit so I could go with an entirely new suspension (http://shocksims.com/#top). It's a super easy plug and play kit where I've had ZERO issues outside of the initial install. Their customer support is outstanding and they will help troubleshoot any issues when first installing (I had to do a recalibration of the suspension module and they sent me the tool to do it free of charge). After an initial tweak I have had no codes or issues since. Installed the Halolifts complete kit and love the stance and ride.

  • Like 1
Posted
I've got a Denali and installed the X-ineering Magneride bypass kit so I could go with an entirely new suspension (http://shocksims.com/#top). It's a super easy plug and play kit where I've had ZERO issues outside of the initial install. Their customer support is outstanding and they will help troubleshoot any issues when first installing (I had to do a recalibration of the suspension module and they sent me the tool to do it free of charge). After an initial tweak I have had no codes or issues since. Installed the Halolifts complete kit and love the stance and ride.
Thanks for the info man I appreciate it. I haven't committed to ditching magneride. I do think it is an amazing ride - way better than my stock '14 K2. Boston roads are terrible too.

The two road blocks I've had since magneride are helper springs and now the level kit.

I think I've convinced myself the zone is sufficient but wanted to hear from someone who has it.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Posted
2 minutes ago, Sierra Jon said:

Thanks for the info man I appreciate it. I haven't committed to ditching magneride. I do think it is an amazing ride - way better than my stock '14 K2. Boston roads are terrible too.

The two road blocks I've had since magneride are helper springs and now the level kit.

I think I've convinced myself the zone is sufficient but wanted to hear from someone who has it.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

Yeah sorry I can't speak to the Zone 2" level. Figured letting you know you can get around the magneride system was at least worth passing along. For what it's worth, with my Halolifts adjustable kit I went with a 2.5" lift in the front and 1" in the rear, mostly leveled it out but kept a rake for when I tow. I kept the stock UCA's on and have had no issues. Although I did cut out the UCA stops that are welded just beneath the UCA. I don't do any serious off-roading so I'm not worried about the UCA traveling too far and causing damage, but figured I better cut the stop out for the occasional trail runs I do when camping. In the crazy off chance it happens I'll just go with an aftermarket UCA at that time. Good luck finding the set up you want.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Got sick of the crappy Rancho ride, through a lot of reading and researching, I decided to go with FOX extended length 2.5's and the cognito UCA. After a week from ordering, I was called and told the Fox won't be manufactured until September. I was offered a set of King's for cost and they were in stock, couldn't pass on that. Finally got them all installed last Friday and alignment done yesterday. Before this, I had a 2" top spacer with a ride height of 23.5" ( center of hub to fender) and now I lost only .5 with a stock setting on the shock. It looks ok to me, and I can live with the 1/2 inch till I need new tires and then I will crank it up a little. My rims are stock 20's and the tires are BFG KO 275 65 20. My does this truck drive nice on the road and off.  

16-Z71.jpg

Z71 Side II.jpg

Edited by tjrado
Added pic
  • Like 1
Posted

Hey guys, I'm new to the Silverado life here and have a specific question. My 2017 1500 LT came to me with 275/55r20 tires, no other mods. I am looking to put on a 2" leveling kit next weekend. Will 285/60r20 tires fit? Searching for a specific answer for hours has yielded no results. 

 

(I'm looking at the Grabbers so they're 33.5" diam.)

20191022_165806.jpg

Posted
On 7/14/2020 at 7:30 AM, Vdravin said:

3 in motofab 

 

8747EAE9-8899-4950-861F-D1B8C0CC2913.jpeg

1EC99785-C52D-4BE2-ABC5-0F6F5FC63A2B.jpeg

451ED1F2-C274-417E-AA88-F89462400F28.jpeg

Was this the kit with UCA also? 

Posted

i went with the 2" in the front and the measurements are spot on for fenders but still looks like som squat. 

Does anyone make a 1/2" blockor is the smallest available a 1"?

 

im tempted to go down to a 1.5 front but love the way the front end sits. 

Posted
3 hours ago, Ray Capobianco said:

i went with the 2" in the front and the measurements are spot on for fenders but still looks like som squat. 

Does anyone make a 1/2" blockor is the smallest available a 1"?

 

im tempted to go down to a 1.5 front but love the way the front end sits. 

I'm curious about this as well. My truck sits perfectly level with a 2" kit up front. But on uneven ground or with any load in the back I get some squat. I added Hellwig 990 helper springs, and they definitely improved the ride with a load, but didn't get rid of the squat like I expected.

 

I was toying with the idea of going .5 or 1 inch higher with a block in the back. Didn't see any blocks for a .5 inch lift though...

20200606_165627.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,889
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    smandy
    Newest Member
    smandy
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 527 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...