Jump to content

Oil catch can?

C25A1guy

By C25A1guy
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

mjb4450 Enthusiast

mjb4450

Posted
Posted

 

If you order our standard Catch Can, you can let the order default to the bracket and we'll send you the correct one. The bracket we supply can be used on the master cylinder or battery box area, it's the same bracket for both locations.

 

Thanks!

:thumbs:

OK, now that I have the manufacturer here, I just ordered an Elite can for my 5.3. I looked at your instructions online and they are for the 6.2 with just an IPB for the 5.3 so it's not totally clear to me where the lines attach especially since I have seen photos on the Forum of the line going from the top of the can to the throttle body on one vehicle and from the top of the can to the side of the valve cover on another vehicle. So, please tell me, on the 5.3, the hose from the throttle body goes to which fitting on the can and the hose from the side of the valve cover goes to which fitting on the can? Thanks for the clarification.

  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

ToesonTheNose
ToesonTheNose

Here at RX now they are doing a video install on my truck

Jay700
Jay700

My dealership said my catch can wasn't needed and wouldn't catch anything. I opened it in there shop after 2,000 miles and let it run on the floor. Lol

fondupot
fondupot

So, I added a second output fitting to my Original RX catch can. I had been emailing with the RevExtreme folks about the benefits of a dual output can, and they were gracious enough to send me the par

Posted Images

Maine-iac Enthusiast

Maine-iac

Posted
Posted (edited)

The line next to the throttle body goes to the top fitting of the can, and the line to the valve cover comes from the fitting on the side. Gases are pushed from the valley of the motor (fitting next to the throttle body), and are pushed through your catch can. The air then travels out the side fitting of your can into the valve cover/intake fitting.

Edited by Maine-iac
mjb4450 Enthusiast

mjb4450

Posted
Posted

The line next to the throttle body goes to the top fitting of the can, and the line to the valve cover comes from the fitting on the side. Gases are pushed from the valley of the motor (fitting next to the throttle body), and are pushed through your catch can. The air then travels out the side fitting of your can into the valve cover/intake fitting.

Excellent, thank you. That's what I needed, flow direction.

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

Anyone else notice that after several months that the amount of captured oil trend off and not only that is is now trending to be more pure oil and not so much water particulates?

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted

Anyone else notice that after several months that the amount of captured oil trend off and not only that is is now trending to be more pure oil and not so much water particulates?

Completely normal and this is due to the weather. In the winter time there is more condensation being caught in the can and in the summer time this condensation decreases. The amount of oil being caught is likely constant year round assuming all other parameters besides the outside temperature remain the same.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

That reminds me - haven't checked mine in 6 weeks! Probably should do that, especially after the many full-throttle bursts out on the mean streets of Mass. today ...

Elite Engineering Enthusiast

Elite Engineering

Posted
Posted

The line next to the throttle body goes to the top fitting of the can, and the line to the valve cover comes from the fitting on the side. Gases are pushed from the valley of the motor (fitting next to the throttle body), and are pushed through your catch can. The air then travels out the side fitting of your can into the valve cover/intake fitting.

 

That's correct. Sorry this isn't clearly labeled on our instruction sheet for the 5.3L engine

CalicoJack76 Enthusiast

CalicoJack76

Posted
Posted

Just from what I have seen and heard from others on here you do not need the check valve.

I ordered mine with the check valve? Will that cause any issues?

Elite Engineering Enthusiast

Elite Engineering

Posted
Posted

I ordered mine with the check valve? Will that cause any issues?

 

 

No, not an issue at all. You're just preventing the potential for any back flow into the Catch Can (it's a good thing).

SkiDooNick700 Enthusiast

SkiDooNick700

Posted
Posted

Just ordered my Elite Catch Can.... Finally... lol. 1,200 miles, should be very minimal build up so far. I ordered the larger one after hearing mjj say it fills up pretty quick here in MI winters. Also got the Black AN fittings. Can't wait to get this installed and see what it's going to catch...

  • Like 1
Elite Engineering Enthusiast

Elite Engineering

Posted
Posted

Just ordered my Elite Catch Can.... Finally... lol. 1,200 miles, should be very minimal build up so far. I ordered the larger one after hearing mjj say it fills up pretty quick here in MI winters. Also got the Black AN fittings. Can't wait to get this installed and see what it's going to catch...

 

 

Thank you, order should be shipping within 24 hours!

mjj Enthusiast

mjj

Posted
Posted

Just ordered my Elite Catch Can.... Finally... lol. 1,200 miles, should be very minimal build up so far. I ordered the larger one after hearing mjj say it fills up pretty quick here in MI winters. Also got the Black AN fittings. Can't wait to get this installed and see what it's going to catch...

Smart choice on the larger can. You'll be happy you got it in a few short months. I wonder if Elite sells just the larger can bottoms that I could retrofit onto mine.

mjb4450 Enthusiast

mjb4450

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just installed my Elite can. I've had billet tech and moroso cans before on other vehicles. Pisses me off that I decided not to mod this one when I bought it and it took 27k miles until I discovered this is the one vehicle that really needed a catch can. This Elite can is very nice quality. Just a couple minor points. The steel mesh was sticking out of the top of the can a bit so I had to shove it back down. And the "L" bracket will not fit in the cutout on the can without a little sanding of the edge of the bracket, it's very tight. Including an allen wrench in the kit would have been nice but no biggie. But I got about 6.5' of line which was just what I needed for my location and method. I put the can over the empty battery tray and routed the lines along OEM harnesses with zip ties and I put a loop on the side hose at the can to prevent any kinking. Looks real good, easy to get to and I figure it's better than on the brake booster, cooler location plus if I drop it it falls on the tray not the ground. The only install problem I had was with the "quick disconnect" lines at the air box. Mine seemed to be stuck and the tabs would not move so I had to get a little hostile with it and they finally loosened up and flexed so that the tabs would release. I was going to pull the throttle body but I was surprised that it was not that dirty. No puddles just a small black slick at the bottom of the throttle body. Customer service and delivery time from Elite was A+.

Edited by mjb4450
  • Like 1
jeffsig Enthusiast

jeffsig

Posted
Posted

Just installed my Elite can. I've had billet tech and moroso cans before on other vehicles. Pisses me off that I decided not to mod this one when I bought it and it took 27k miles until I discovered this is the one vehicle that really needed a catch can. This Elite can is very nice quality. Just a couple minor points. The steel mesh was sticking out of the top of the can a bit so I had to shove it back down. And the "L" bracket will not fit in the cutout on the can without a little sanding of the edge of the bracket, it's very tight. Including an allen wrench in the kit would have been nice but no biggie. But I got about 6.5' of line wjich was just what I needed for my location and method. I put the can over the empty battery tray and routed the lines along OEM harnesses with zip ties and I put a loop on the side hose at the can to prevent any kinking. Looks real good, easy to get to and I figure it's better than on the brake booster, cooler location plus if I drop it it falls on the tray not the ground. The only install problem I had was with the "quick disconnect" lines at the air box. Mine seemed to be stuck and the tabs would not move so I had to get a little hostile with it and they finally loosened up and flexed so that the tabs would release. I was going to pull the throttle body but I was surprised that it was not that dirty. No puddles just a small black slick at the bottom of the throttle body. Custome service and delivery time from Elite was A+.

Notice any hissing of the can? I just installed mine and wondering if its normal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • c4racer2
      Turning radius

      By c4racer2 · Posted

      if you want a short turning radius get a short bed Colorado!
    • c4racer2
      summer road trips in the 2026 2500HD

      By c4racer2 · Posted

      that is pretty awesome MPG there!  I think so far one observation is these trucks do way better on MPG under 65mph vs 70+ and they really suffer at 75+   I noticed on the stretches into NE on 76 and 80 which is posted 75MPH and I was doing 82 I was getting more like 13.    
    • newdude
      Bent valve in 2025 GMC Canyon Denali - Requires engine swap at 14K miles

      By newdude · Posted

      No ETA is available for that engine at the moment in the GM system.   I would start at the dealer.  Try and talk to the parts manager or service manager and see if they can start a CX Connect case and get an ETA from GM on when engines may be available.  If they just check Parts Workbench and say "no eta", they aren't trying hard enough.  They need to do a CX Connect and chat with DPAC to find the ETA.      
    • Chuck FB
      MPG at 600 miles

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I would have to read back to get a better picture in my mind of some of the other comments and what they were using for a driving scenario they based the fuel mileage off of. That is why the fuel mileage conversation is extremely difficult to make fair comparisons from. If I was to be living in town and only driving around town, light to light and some longer stretches that doesn't have a light every block, and the usual stop at a grocery store and the bank and so on and so forth, my fuel mileage even during the summer time would be so bad with my truck I don't even want to know how bad it would be !. Then add in winter time and idling to warm it up to clear the windows and driving through snowy streets etc, large heavy trucks with gas engines have NEVER been worth crap for fuel mileage and why some little pot licker of a car with wheelbarrow tires and a 1300 cc four cylinder non turbo engine was the ticket to using a mere fraction of the fuel over a full size pickup.    By the way my truck has the 34" tires as its a HC but not the BFG KO3 tires ( that was an option for my truck but the sales guy couldn't figure out what the tires actually were so that never got on the order until it was too late to change the truck order ). So what fuel mileage your getting actually sounds good for "town driving" and with my truck when I go to town the fuel mileage keeps increasing as I get closer to town because it takes quite a while to get the driveline oils warmed up ( and why it always shows better fuel mileage on the return trip from town because its already warmed up ) but once I am in town that fuel mileage average just keeps dropping the more I mess around town and then has to recover back to something reasonable again by the time I get home for an over all average.    I'd be curious what your sticker says for the factory weight of your truck, mine is close around that 7700 lb due to the options it has. But anyway the long and short is, vehicle weight, higher rolling resistance heavy tires and a hefty driveline and a relatively large gas engine make for crap fuel mileage in stop and go scenarios, all one can do is drive it easy off the line at each stop and as my dad had said over the years, drive like a raw egg is under your foot and that's the best one can do. Years back with a carbed engine and if the carb was getting a bit out of tune etc as would the ignition system, the fuel mileage on pickups with larger engines was just awful compared to what your getting. We pay the fuel price penalty for driving HD trucks over some little vehicle, that is the reality. 
    • diyer2
      Navigating senior years.

      By diyer2 · Posted

      Speedy recovery.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...