Jump to content

Oil catch can?

C25A1guy

By C25A1guy
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

jrob56 Enthusiast

jrob56

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

Assuming all hose connections are tight and there aren't any vacuum leaks or anything, and the fact that you had hesitation and loss of power, I'm thinking it's just a coincidence and has nothing to do with the catch can. It's likely a bad spark plug, bad fuel injector.....something within the engine itself that's affecting the combustion process.

 

 

 

There are a ton of us in here with catch cans of varying makes/models and none that I know of have had any CEL's as a result.

 

Agree, I dont see anyway a can would do that. I thought there was another thread with an issue like this, several people having spark plug wires coming loose at the coil. I would check all 8 at both ends.

Edited by jrob56
  • Like 1
  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

ToesonTheNose
ToesonTheNose

Here at RX now they are doing a video install on my truck

Jay700
Jay700

My dealership said my catch can wasn't needed and wouldn't catch anything. I opened it in there shop after 2,000 miles and let it run on the floor. Lol

fondupot
fondupot

So, I added a second output fitting to my Original RX catch can. I had been emailing with the RevExtreme folks about the benefits of a dual output can, and they were gracious enough to send me the par

Posted Images

GDI Tech Enthusiast

GDI Tech

Posted
Posted

Has to be something routed incorrectly or a vacuum leal. If you can post pictures of all your hoses and connections, and the most important is the drain valve being closed (if so equipped).

 

And yes, the Extreme Auto can like this is the cheap China made junk. Anyone with a welded one got one of the originals. These as soon as it freezes out I think we will see plenty popping the glued on bottom and tops off:

 

DSCN1783_zpsf3ov53go.jpg​

DSCN1784_zpsolxuss1j.jpg​

 

These are what RXspeedworks sells so beware!!

kennerz Enthusiast

kennerz

Posted
Posted

Nice! Amazing that these guys have a clear conscience selling crap like that, especially for the price. Have to say elite treats there customers well and has a solid product.

Rotti54 Enthusiast

Rotti54

Posted
Posted

I don't see any evidence on my can that it is glued together at all. Guess I'll just see what happens as the bad weather nears

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AC_USMC_Ret Enthusiast

AC_USMC_Ret

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

Assuming all hose connections are tight and there aren't any vacuum leaks or anything, and the fact that you had hesitation and loss of power, I'm thinking it's just a coincidence and has nothing to do with the catch can. It's likely a bad spark plug, bad fuel injector.....something within the engine itself that's affecting the combustion process.

 

 

 

There are a ton of us in here with catch cans of varying makes/models and none that I know of have had any CEL's as a result.

took to dealer, it was not believed to be related to the catch can...they said they could not find anything stored. Service tech said it could have been a bad fuel or some other small quick issue. I will continue to watch but all is well for now!- Thanks !

 

Agree, I dont see anyway a can would do that. I thought there was another thread with an issue like this, several people having spark plug wires coming loose at the coil. I would check all 8 at both ends.

^^^

Edited by AC_USMC_Ret
  • Like 1
kennerz Enthusiast

kennerz

Posted
Posted (edited)

There are a lot of opportunities for air leks with a catch can. I was runing worm gear style clamps and noticed that it was distorted a little. Switched to a spring style/factory style clamp and I noticed I had a stronger brake pedal and my MPG went up. so couldn't pinpoint that I had a leak but it ran better when I made sure all fittings were secure/snug.

 

Any "false" air behind the MAF at all is a problem. EFI 101. Could cause all types of mild driveabilty issues. My truck actually ran stronger when I spring clamped all lines and made sure all catch can fitting were properly sealed. Running a cleanside breather and once I re-routed the factory stuff and plugged the ports on the factory inlet tube it ran noticeable better and the brake pedal was strong. which leads me to believe air can get in where you don't want it.

 

To the topic above, if your can leaks, you have an air leak. pretty simple.

Edited by kennerz
Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

Been a while since I've seen that. Haven't driven much in the cold yet. Mine will fill up real fast ...

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

How many miles did it take to produce that?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Let me look tomorrow it's in my excel spreadsheet

 

 

Ryan

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

3 months and 3,205 miles

 

A little longer than I normally go between draining

 

 

Ryan

brwk Enthusiast

brwk

Posted
Posted

Getting back to air leaks....shouldn't you throw a code if the can's connections aren't fully sealed?

Crf450r420 Enthusiast

Crf450r420

Posted
Posted

If it is a hose and it bounces, it could only loose seal at certain moments on leak more at those moments. Just a thought. Most like that guy had other issues.

 

This week will finally be below 80 here so no more sweating. I'm sure will go back up though.

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted (edited)

Getting back to air leaks....shouldn't you throw a code if the can's connections aren't fully sealed?

 

I guess technically. If you suck in enough unmetered air, some sort of code should be thrown. I've never had an issue tho. All my connections are with screw type clamps too. They are all tight.

Edited by fondupot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • CamGTP
      Gas Prices

      By CamGTP · Posted

      Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Atlas
      Gas Prices

      By Atlas · Posted

      Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • bluev8
      Intermittent no-code issues on 2022.5+ V8 trucks — what did the shop fail to capture?

      By bluev8 · Posted

      That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • scotthvac.net
      2022-24 halogen - led grille swap

      By scotthvac.net · Posted

      2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
    • davester
      Replacement Radiator

      By davester · Posted

      And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them.  google for the code, one is always available.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...