Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anybody put the Gibson exhaust system that is a single side swept system on a 5.3. I'm just curious because it says the tubing is 3.5" So I'm curious what 3.5" tubing sounds like on a 2015 Silverado with the 5.3 engine

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

5.3L is 3" exhaust and 6.2L is 3.5" exhaust?

As far as I know that is correct. Wether the 5.3 is 3" or 2.75 not sure. Someone on here measured with calipers and it was like 2.78 or something. when it comes to exhaust a 1/2 increase inch flows a lot more than a 1/4 area wise so even on a 5.3 with 355 +fwhp you should see a gain. Muffler has a lot to do with it too. It's been proven that most mufflers (Aftermarket and otherwise) Hurt flow. Some of the best sounding aggressive mufflers suck from a performance perspective. Really have to understand what you are putting on, and what you expect to get from it.

Posted

The 5.3's stock piping is 2.75" but the aftermarket is all 3". Some 6.2's have 3" tailpipes and some have 3.5". Prior to the muffler all 6.2's are 3.5" regardless. A lot of the crew cab 6.2's I looked at had the 3" tailpipe but my double cab truck was 3.5" all the way through except where it necked down into the flapper valve. Good old GM lol.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Posted

Has anybody put the Gibson exhaust system that is a single side swept system on a 5.3. I'm just curious because it says the tubing is 3.5" So I'm curious what 3.5" tubing sounds like on a 2015 Silverado with the 5.3 engine

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just FYI...AutoAnything has Gibson on sale 30% off

Posted

Has anybody put the Gibson exhaust system that is a single side swept system on a 5.3. I'm just curious because it says the tubing is 3.5" So I'm curious what 3.5" tubing sounds like on a 2015 Silverado with the 5.3 engine

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have it and generally recommend it. It's a pretty deep almost 'burble-y' note during warm idle. No highway drone when V4 is disabled. When you hammer the throtttle it screams pretty good. Just make sure you buy a coyple band clamps to take the place of the cheap u-bolt clamps that come with it.

Posted

Is there a way for you to do a recording of a cold start up and few rev ups? And to confirm. You have a 5.3?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I'm also looking into the Gibson exhaust. I can't decide between duals out the back or the single out the side. Looking for opinions on these two, i assume they will sound the same.

Posted

I'm also looking into the Gibson exhaust. I can't decide between duals out the back or the single out the side. Looking for opinions on these two, i assume they will sound the same.

 

Go the same route as factory. That's what I have and it looks great. I've had duals out the back, 45* at both side of bumpers, turndowns, and now this and it looks better than anything else

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm thinking after the holidays. I'm going to cut right after the y pipe and in front of that third cat off and replace with 3" tubing and a new magnaflow 14" long muffler. Has anybody done this yet? The truck is a 5.3 Silverado

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I'm thinking after the holidays. I'm going to cut right after the y pipe and in front of that third cat off and replace with 3" tubing and a new magnaflow 14" long muffler. Has anybody done this yet? The truck is a 5.3 Silverado

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's about what i will be doing with 1 7/8 catless headers from ARH. I jusf need to get off work and go home for the holidays to get it all done up.

 

What im worried is that maybe the 14 will be too much. I will probably pay them to try multiple mufflers until i hear one i like. Borla XR1 from what i have heard is a good sound as well. But video vs in person with headers is totally different

Posted

That's about what i will be doing with 1 7/8 catless headers from ARH. I jusf need to get off work and go home for the holidays to get it all done up.

 

What im worried is that maybe the 14 will be too much. I will probably pay them to try multiple mufflers until i hear one i like. Borla XR1 from what i have heard is a good sound as well. But video vs in person with headers is totally different

yes your completely right. I have washed just about every video I could and I currently just have a 14" magnaflow with all stock piping but I want a bit louder. So I'm thinking of going to the 3" pipe. I'm also curious on what a 3.5" pipe would sound like on the 5.3 V8

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I realized I know nothing about modern exhausts. I guess the good old days of the pre-70s c10 are long gone. Crawling under my truck made it real. The 'flapper' thing I thought would be easy to locate. I was wrong. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong spots. Someone make this easier please!! I was going to do it myself but I'm strongly rethinking that

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...