Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
I knew there were several 2wd turbo trucks out there, I hadn't seen any lowered 4wd trucks. This is good to know, lower it is!

I’m have a supercharged 4WD currently sitting at 5/7... Probably going up to 4/6 b/c of my wheels but there are a few out there running 5/7 with 295/30/26 so I may stay but we will see in a few weeks...c98bf7a55926f7c045c6f7503e8f8999.jpg
  • Like 1
Posted

Yeah, at least it's just labor... If you were paying a shop to do it, it would be a bit much for 1/2". Doing it yourself makes it much easier to swallow.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted

I’m have a supercharged 4WD currently sitting at 5/7... Probably going up to 4/6 b/c of my wheels but there are a few out there running 5/7 with 295/30/26 so I may stay but we will see in a few weeks...c98bf7a55926f7c045c6f7503e8f8999.jpg
That's a slick truck.

I know some guys in the diesel crowd have problems if their cv axles are at weird angles, good to know we don't have the same problem. Makes life so much easier.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
That's a slick truck.

I know some guys in the diesel crowd have problems if their cv axles are at weird angles, good to know we don't have the same problem. Makes life so much easier.


Thx Lovelessjl... With my truck being 4WD, it has been some challenges over this past year to get lowered to what I wanted but finally here. She’s going back in next week to get the 2” lowering springs so that should raise her back up a inch. I relocated the strut w/ 2” drop spindles on the front to get the 5” drop but 4 should be what I need for the 6s...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
21 minutes ago, Xpensive Chevy said:


Thx Lovelessjl... With my truck being 4WD, it has been some challenges over this past year to get lowered to what I wanted but finally here. She’s going back in next week to get the 2” lowering springs so that should raise her back up a inch. I relocated the strut w/ 2” drop spindles on the front to get the 5” drop but 4 should be what I need for the 6s...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So what spindles are you using in the front?  also what else did you do to get it down the rest of the way? 

Posted
56 minutes ago, Cardinals11 said:

9a74e93de5dbd41a1d57bd0b2d171693.jpgc6058da3f7a24e5196c42dc87cfd8375.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks great!! what did you use in the front? 

Posted
So what spindles are you using in the front?  also what else did you do to get it down the rest of the way? 

MaxTrac spindles along with what I said in the post u quoted... Use a MaxTrac flip kit for the rear... Order adjustable kit form he Suspension Superstore... They coil cups that came for the front did not work so they sent me the lowering springs...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted
Looks great!! what did you use in the front? 

Thanks man. New to the forum. Still figuring things out. Front has spindles and the rear is shackles but I may end up lowering the back more. Ride great though but it can rub up front if the wheel travels up too much.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted

So I just went down to 8 in the back...and apparently had nowhere near the clearance that I thought I did, even with the c-notch. It bangs way hard. May I recommend an underbed notch to anyone who wants to go down that far? Lol.

 

Gonna give it a few weeks to decide if I'll keep it there or come back up just a little. First impression is that I can deal with it.

 

The pinion angle still needs to be adjusted, but otherwise the driveshaft should be fine. I only had a 3/4" gap before contacting the output seal after going down 6 1/2, but any change here was pretty minor.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Stressin said:

So I just went down to 8 in the back...and apparently had nowhere near the clearance that I thought I did, even with the c-notch. It bangs way hard. May I recommend an underbed notch to anyone who wants to go down that far? Lol.

 

Gonna give it a few weeks to decide if I'll keep it there or come back up just a little. First impression is that I can deal with it.

 

The pinion angle still needs to be adjusted, but otherwise the driveshaft should be fine. I only had a 3/4" gap before contacting the output seal after going down 6 1/2, but any change here was pretty minor.

What shocks do you have. Change the shocks to some adjustables and you might be ok.  Because you should be fine at 8" with a c notch.   Hoping you're a regular cab though 

Posted

So, for guys wondering about turning radius on a 4x4 lowered with spindles. Here is a demonstration with my 2016 RCSB lowered 4/6 with spindles and springs up front and a flip kit in the rear.



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
57 minutes ago, Nasty said:

What shocks do you have. Change the shocks to some adjustables and you might be ok.  Because you should be fine at 8" with a c notch.   Hoping you're a regular cab though 

Belltech Street Perfomance on a double cab. That extra 500 pounds makes a bigger difference than I thought it would.

 

I forget...did you end up with Vikings or QA1's?

Posted
33 minutes ago, lovelessjl said:

So, for guys wondering about turning radius on a 4x4 lowered with spindles. Here is a demonstration with my 2016 RCSB lowered 4/6 with spindles and springs up front and a flip kit in the rear.
 

 


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

Tighter radius than a lot of cars. Lol.

 

Nice video.

Posted
40 minutes ago, Stressin said:

Belltech Street Perfomance on a double cab. That extra 500 pounds makes a bigger difference than I thought it would.

 

I forget...did you end up with Vikings or QA1's?

Qa1 in the rear. Which made a huge difference. And Vikings are being installed in the front after the rain stops

20180306_183906.thumb.jpg.d8bbdcc1d49485ad81ce1b0152418f48.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • if you want a short turning radius get a short bed Colorado!
    • that is pretty awesome MPG there!  I think so far one observation is these trucks do way better on MPG under 65mph vs 70+ and they really suffer at 75+   I noticed on the stretches into NE on 76 and 80 which is posted 75MPH and I was doing 82 I was getting more like 13.    
    • No ETA is available for that engine at the moment in the GM system.   I would start at the dealer.  Try and talk to the parts manager or service manager and see if they can start a CX Connect case and get an ETA from GM on when engines may be available.  If they just check Parts Workbench and say "no eta", they aren't trying hard enough.  They need to do a CX Connect and chat with DPAC to find the ETA.      
    • I would have to read back to get a better picture in my mind of some of the other comments and what they were using for a driving scenario they based the fuel mileage off of. That is why the fuel mileage conversation is extremely difficult to make fair comparisons from. If I was to be living in town and only driving around town, light to light and some longer stretches that doesn't have a light every block, and the usual stop at a grocery store and the bank and so on and so forth, my fuel mileage even during the summer time would be so bad with my truck I don't even want to know how bad it would be !. Then add in winter time and idling to warm it up to clear the windows and driving through snowy streets etc, large heavy trucks with gas engines have NEVER been worth crap for fuel mileage and why some little pot licker of a car with wheelbarrow tires and a 1300 cc four cylinder non turbo engine was the ticket to using a mere fraction of the fuel over a full size pickup.    By the way my truck has the 34" tires as its a HC but not the BFG KO3 tires ( that was an option for my truck but the sales guy couldn't figure out what the tires actually were so that never got on the order until it was too late to change the truck order ). So what fuel mileage your getting actually sounds good for "town driving" and with my truck when I go to town the fuel mileage keeps increasing as I get closer to town because it takes quite a while to get the driveline oils warmed up ( and why it always shows better fuel mileage on the return trip from town because its already warmed up ) but once I am in town that fuel mileage average just keeps dropping the more I mess around town and then has to recover back to something reasonable again by the time I get home for an over all average.    I'd be curious what your sticker says for the factory weight of your truck, mine is close around that 7700 lb due to the options it has. But anyway the long and short is, vehicle weight, higher rolling resistance heavy tires and a hefty driveline and a relatively large gas engine make for crap fuel mileage in stop and go scenarios, all one can do is drive it easy off the line at each stop and as my dad had said over the years, drive like a raw egg is under your foot and that's the best one can do. Years back with a carbed engine and if the carb was getting a bit out of tune etc as would the ignition system, the fuel mileage on pickups with larger engines was just awful compared to what your getting. We pay the fuel price penalty for driving HD trucks over some little vehicle, that is the reality. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...