Jump to content

2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

Still have to put my viking coilovers in but I love how my truck sits 

20180505_135259.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

qwank Senior Enthusiast

qwank

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, 204-WPG said:

The provided Transmission Spacer, it says in the instruction for 2WD only, but did you need to install it?

 

on the other note, how did you install/tighten the provided bump stop? No access  to reach the nut...Lol

 

I didn't have to use the transmission spacer, I threw it in the glove box just in case though 

 

For the bumpstops, you drill a 5/16'' hole in the frame and use a 3/8-16 tap to make some threads. I just put a dab of red loctite on the bump stop and screwed it into the frame by hand as tight as I could get it.  

 

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
22 minutes ago, qwank said:

 

I didn't have to use the transmission spacer, I threw it in the glove box just in case though 

 

For the bumpstops, you drill a 5/16'' hole in the frame and use a 3/8-16 tap to make some threads. I just put a dab of red loctite on the bump stop and screwed it into the frame by hand as tight as I could get it.  

 

I got a belltech bump stop that has a nut and bolt. I used a #10 self tapping steel screw :)

qwank Senior Enthusiast

qwank

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Nasty said:

I got a belltech bump stop that has a nut and bolt. I used a #10 self tapping steel screw :)

yeah, some kits come with the self tapper type, mine came with the screw in style.  It came with nuts too but there's no way to get them on there.  

6ftdwn57 Enthusiast

6ftdwn57

Posted
Posted

So I did my drop last year right after I bought the truck. 2017 5.3L 2wd. I went with the McGaughys kit. I set the front at 5" of drop. The back I did the axle flip, and used their new hanger on the highest setting(for the most drop). Went with 4' angle shims on the rear to set the driveline correctly, and had to have the driveshaft shortened. Handles and drives beautifully. Currently running their supplied rear shocks as well(pretty happy with them actually). 

 

My question is, comparing my truck to pictures of trucks with the same setup, it looks like I'm missing another 1" of drop in the rear? At first I liked the look of the raked stance, but now I'm wanting the back down lower. Am I missing something here? 

19702334_10114374636974164_8143766922814001662_n.jpg

19731806_10114375122635894_3926980197988788986_n.jpg

  • Like 1
6ftdwn57 Enthusiast

6ftdwn57

Posted
Posted

I am also running bigger tires in the rear now, that isnt shown in those pictures. Nitto 305/40/22 currently, was running 285/40/22. So it raised it up a touch as well.

6ftdwn57 Enthusiast

6ftdwn57

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sorry, looks like after reading back through this thread, if I wanted even a lower drop in the back, I should have stayed with my stock hangers. I'm wondering if a shackle will get me my 1'' I'm looking for. Anyone run that kind of setup?

Edited by 6ftdwn57
  • Like 1
Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
47 minutes ago, 6ftdwn57 said:

Sorry, looks like after reading back through this thread, if I wanted even a lower drop in the back, I should have stayed with my stock hangers. I'm wondering if a shackle will get me my 1'' I'm looking for. Anyone run that kind of setup?

Any lowering shackle

6ftdwn57 Enthusiast

6ftdwn57

Posted
Posted (edited)

since my shackle is running pretty much vertical, I would need an 1" shorter shackle to achieve what I want. Which brings us into the lowering/lift shackle debate after flipping. I think the lowering shackle would actually cause lift in this application.

 

I think this is what I'm looking for? Since I'm running the lift hanger from McGaughys. The other "lowering shackles" out on the market look to be much longer, which would cause lift.

 

https://switchsuspension.com/gmc-sierra-1500-2014-2018-rear-1-drop-shackles-mcgaughys-part-34040/

 

 

Edited by txab
Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
4 minutes ago, 6ftdwn57 said:

since my shackle is running pretty much vertical, I would need an 1" shorter shackle to achieve what I want. Which brings us into the lowering/lift shackle debate after flipping. I think the lowering shackle would actually cause lift in this application.

 

I think this is what I'm looking for? Since I'm running the lift hanger from McGaughys. The other "lowering shackles" out on the market look to be much longer, which would cause lift.

 

https://www.suspensionshop.com/gmc-sierra-1500-2014-2018-rear-1-drop-shackles-mcgaughys-part-34040/

You're at 5 right now? With stock shackle? How is your hanger set?

6ftdwn57 Enthusiast

6ftdwn57

Posted
Posted (edited)

To clear everything up:

If you have used McGuaghys flip kit, with lift hanger, then you need shorter(lift) shackles to achieve a drop in suspension. Like in this link: 

https://switchsuspension.com/gmc-sierra-1500-2014-2018-rear-1-drop-shackles-mcgaughys-part-34040/

 

If you have not used a rear flip kit, then you would need a longer(lowering) shackle to achieve a drop in suspension. Like in this link: 

 

https://switchsuspension.com/chevrolet-silverado-1500-2014-2018-rear-1-2-drop-shackles-mcgaughys-part-33037/

Edited by txab
Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

Lift shackle is to short. I had one. Horrible ride. Not enough movement 

6ftdwn57 Enthusiast

6ftdwn57

Posted
Posted

I used McGuaghys flip kit, with their lift hanger, and stock shackles. Lift hanger set to the highest setting(for most drop). This is supposed to achieve 6" of drop.

 

If I would have kept my stock hangers, then I would have yielded 7" of drop.

 

So now, Im going with McGuaghys shackle designed for their flip kit with lift hanger for another 1" of drop, putting me down to 7". Which would be opposite of what you would need to lower, if you havent done a flip and lift hanger

6ftdwn57 Enthusiast

6ftdwn57

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Lift shackle is to short. I had one. Horrible ride. Not enough movement 

Really? Damn! Did it feel like not allowing the springs to move or something? Like a harsher ride?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • PunchT37
      Would this CV Shaft be bad?

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
    • anthony2558
      Would this CV Shaft be bad?

      By anthony2558 · Posted

      Would this be normal or a worn CV Shaft? 51K miles 3.5" lift? Boots are intact and no visible leaks showing. Attached is a the video I took. Thanks     https://youtu.be/ZnW7PPRmjJY?feature=shared    
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...