Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
41 minutes ago, Criscone said:

8f41c2e57ea149278fd23416313c59ad.jpg

Finally did it! Everything works like a champ. $520 though but so worth it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fantastic!! Looks like it rolled off the factory floor. 

 

Could you please share your part number list and any other details... or link what's in this thread already that you successfully used? 

 

Thanks!

Posted
11 hours ago, pgamboa said:


The reason you get “won’t fit” is because our jump seat plugs into a harness under the passenger seat while the full console plugs in at the front (under the instrument panel). I have two consoles right now and trying to work up a Plug and Play Harness Seat. I’m really close, BUT there will still be some wiring add needed. I have parts coming in early this week and hope to have a fully working solution by end of the week.

But that’s the main reason why it says “won’t fit”. It’ll physically fit, but you won’t be able to easily plug it up without modification.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks pgamboa, that makes sense but I do find it alarming that there's 4 different numbers listed here just for the console. 

 

I'll be sure to look back and see if you posted any progress. Please share whatever you know/learn.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
Thanks pgamboa, that makes sense but I do find it alarming that there's 4 different numbers listed here just for the console. 
 
I'll be sure to look back and see if you posted any progress. Please share whatever you know/learn.
 

Different part #s based on options. For example, if you have a rear seat DVD system, there is an additional Audio/Video Input adapter in the console that connects to the headrests.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
1 minute ago, pgamboa said:


Different part #s based on options. For example, if you have a rear seat DVD system, there is an additional Audio/Video Input adapter in the console that connects to the headrests.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So do you think they are physically the same... fitting 2014 to 2016 or really 2017, aside from the various functional options?

  • Like 1
Posted
So do you think they are physically the same... fitting 2014 to 2016 or really 2017, aside from the various functional options?

Yes - Physically the same.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
So do you think they are physically the same... fitting 2014 to 2016 or really 2017, aside from the various functional options?

I ordered a console for a 2015 Silverado and I have a 2016. It was about $100 cheaper at the time. I don’t have the wireless charging lid (wish I did), but my cup holders are removable (don’t think they are on the 2016-newer models). You’ll be fine with any console from 2014-on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Like 1
Posted
15 minutes ago, jbh4381 said:


I ordered a console for a 2015 Silverado and I have a 2016. It was about $100 cheaper at the time. I don’t have the wireless charging lid (wish I did), but my cup holders are removable (don’t think they are on the 2016-newer models). You’ll be fine with any console from 2014-on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

What about connectivity differences? I can see they will likely all fit but what about the harness they come with? Maybe it doesn't matter because of the necessary mods... ?

 

Posted
What about connectivity differences? I can see they will likely all fit but what about the harness they come with? Maybe it doesn't matter because of the necessary mods... ?
 

I took the harness from my jump seat and used it to make connections. It wasn’t tough, anyone with basic 12 volt skills can knock it out. The only splice I had to do was for the console light. Everything else hooked up.
I couldn’t get the front 3 USB to work so I did buy a plate for the front that only has 2 12v and 110v outlets.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I took the harness from my jump seat and used it to make connections. It wasn’t tough, anyone with basic 12 volt skills can knock it out. The only splice I had to do was for the console light. Everything else hooked up.
I couldn’t get the front 3 USB to work so I did buy a plate for the front that only has 2 12v and 110v outlets.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro



That’s where there splicing comes into play. I spliced in my 6pin from new harness, into jump seat harness. All 4 usb work, all 4 12v work and the 120v works. Plus wireless charging and the inside led light. I forget the guys screen name bcx81? But that’s the diy I followed. Super simple and everythingggg works!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted
Fantastic!! Looks like it rolled off the factory floor. 
 
Could you please share your part number list and any other details... or link what's in this thread already that you successfully used? 
 
Thanks!



eBay search “2016 Silverado console”
Buy it now

Done. Bronco31? I think the username was. Something like that. No part numbers, just saw the silver sides and knew the console itself is the same essentially.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Thanks 1
Posted



That’s where there splicing comes into play. I spliced in my 6pin from new harness, into jump seat harness. All 4 usb work, all 4 12v work and the 120v works. Plus wireless charging and the inside led light. I forget the guys screen name bcx81? But that’s the diy I followed. Super simple and everythingggg works!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I read it but didn’t comprehend it to the point that I felt comfortable. I found the plate from 2014 that didn’t have the USB and went that route. A little bummed but I didn’t have the USB before with a jump-seat, and I still have my console USB and Glovebox USB if needed. My 12v skills are novice with the new vehicles, haha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Like 1
Posted

If can see the backside of the triple USB receptacle (found on 2014/2015), I’m fairly certain the connection to get it working is the same as 2016/2017. On 2016/2017, the front USB is a Dual. It is a hub which is why the 6-pin connector underneath the USB is needed. On the Dual receptacles, the are (2) Mini USB A jacks on the backside. One of them is an Input (left side - takes the grey USB plug) and the other is an output (right side - takes a black USB plug). This black USB plug can then be routed to the Dual USB Receptacle w/ 3.5” aux port in the inside of the compartment. This is a daisy chained method.

 

Also allows you to keep the USB in the Glove box.

 

I am a few days from finalizing this... just waiting for the correct color USB cables. Once I retest everything, I’ll make up the 42-way connector and plug my jump seat harness into the from the console harness.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

  • Like 1
Posted
If can see the backside of the triple USB receptacle (found on 2014/2015), I fairly certain the connection to get it working is the same as 2016/2017. On 2016/2017, the front USB is a Dual. It is a hub which is why the 6-pin connector underneath the USB is needed. On the Dual receptacles, the are (2) Mini USB A jacks on the backside. One of them is an Input (left side - takes the grey USB plug) and the other is an output (right side - takes a black USB plug). This black USB plug can then be routed to the Dual USB Receptacle w/ 3.5” aux port in the inside of the compartment. This is a daisy chained method.

 

Also allows you to keep the USB in the Glove box.

 

I am a few days from finalizing this... just waiting for the correct color USB cables. Once I retest everything, I’ll make up the 42-way connector and plug my jump seat harness into the from the console harness.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I believe it had the USB receptacle on one side, and a pin connector on the other. I’d snap a picture of it, but it is in my attic inside of the jump seat. I bought the cable that is from GM to run USB from the glovebox to the triple (from what understood) but it wouldn’t power with just a USB. I’m sure that is where splicing comes into play, but I didn’t feel comfortable with that part of it, so I went the route of having just 12v and 110v up front.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Posted
13 hours ago, Criscone said:

8f41c2e57ea149278fd23416313c59ad.jpg

Finally did it! Everything works like a champ. $520 though but so worth it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow!!! That looks incredibly good!!  After reading this thread, I am pretty concerned about doing the wiring - "4 pin this, 6 pin that" splicing wires, brown USB connectors, I really am feeling overwhelmed....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Some clarification may help with some of these issues.   - Rev Industries is/was the division of BAK (now Realtruck) that makes covers under the OEM names.  So if you see one with a Ford logo on it, or if you are buying the GM Accessories cover, you are essentially buying a BAK G2 cover with different branding.   - Rev Industries now markets under RealTruck "Advantage."   - As of May 1, 2025, the Advantage covers now have a 5 year warranty.  Anything before that was a 36/36K warranty.   - Parts for the covers are available from Realtruck or BAK.  The email address to reach them is [email protected] or you can call them at 818-365-9000   - If the entire cover has to be replaced, you have to go through your local GM dealer.  Service dept opens an RO, notes the damage and submits it as a warranty claim.  Keep your paperwork handy so they can confirm when you purchased it and it's within the warranty timeframe.  Once the warranty claim is approved, Parts orders the replacement cover.  When it arrives at the dealership, service will remove and install the new one for free as labor is included under warranty.   - The Advantage covers are not the latest and greatest Gen 3 covers.  They still use the old school clamps, elevator bolts, etc...If you want the newer technology, consider buying your cover in the aftermarket world.  That way, if you have an issue you can deal directly with the manufacturer.   - Finally, RealTruck has a program with many of their authorized dealers that doubles the warranty to 10 years if the authorized dealer does the install.     Hope this helps.
    • Welcome to the group!  My '22 just crossed 150K miles.  Runs perfectly.  Oil pump belt will be done in the next 30 days or so and onward hopefully for another 150K.  Love the truck.
    • Still looks like a rivet to me in the pics, I don't see a nut and none of the pics show the head of the screw. But if you says so.....
    • Thanks for all the help so far!   I did try right from 2026 right down to 2021, and only from 2023 down lets me select the option for tire psi change, but I get the vehicle not supported error!   I'll definitely try it under Chevrolet after work today, and I'll get the sensor number from gm for my truck tire sensors. And I'll let you know if it works for me under Chevrolet!   And if that doesn't work, I'm going to guess that what @Atlas said about maybe I have a different body control module could be true!  
    • From where I'm sitting this sounds like a compatibility problem. I'm assuming the 2007 was a 900-series truck, and not an 800-series (they were sold side-by-side in dealerships that model year), since it starts and runs.   This is why I HATE post-2006 vehicles. Everything becomes a huge problem when you try to keep the thing running for longer than the manufacturer has designed it to.    I can't remember when Global-A architecture started - either '10 or '11. For your sake, you had better hope it's '11, or you're going to be spending some BIG money to correct this cluster-eff. That's something you need to find out before doing anything else. You may have several computers bricked ... but the fact that it runs tells me you MIGHT be ok here.     EDIT: Just did a quick refresher. You're screwed. This is Global-A. The 2 systems are NOT compatible in the slightest. Once you get the correct engine in there that IS compatible, you're going to need to see how many computers are locked. Absolute NIGHTMARE to straighten out, too. Your buddy might be better off cutting his losses and finding something else.   Welcome to post-2006 vehicle electronics. This is why I quit the industry, and drive nothing built after 1994. This stuff takes all the fun out of wrenching!  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...