Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

if i get them one at a time I'm assuming its better to get the rear one first ? I'm gonna try to get them both at the same time but if not get the rear first ? if its not to much of a pain in the ass to change the setting is it better to start at the #3 setting for both or start at #1 to see witch i prefer ?

 

Most definitely do the rear first. Setting change isn't too bad, just remove the lower end link (nut/bolt) loosen the jam nut and extend the end link and re-install on the desired setting. The nuts are concave lock nuts, so I would just start at setting #2.

 

Only reason I went with #3 from the jump was I know how I like my rides to handle and don't mind a stiffer ride for better handling. The stiffest setting is just too much for running the factory front bar.

Posted

Saturday finally after a few months shined up my Chevy , next on the list for spring cleaning the Airaid filter/tube and installing new wipers. Also need to clean out the gunk inside the rims and due for service

post-132385-0-98610100-1492351652_thumb.png

 

post-132385-0-98610100-1492351652_thumb.png

post-132385-0-98610100-1492351652_thumb.png

post-132385-0-98610100-1492351652_thumb.png

Posted

 

Most definitely do the rear first. Setting change isn't too bad, just remove the lower end link (nut/bolt) loosen the jam nut and extend the end link and re-install on the desired setting. The nuts are concave lock nuts, so I would just start at setting #2.

 

Only reason I went with #3 from the jump was I know how I like my rides to handle and don't mind a stiffer ride for better handling. The stiffest setting is just too much for running the factory front bar.

 

i also don't mind a stiffer ride at all i want the best handling possible ... everything on my truck is stock suspension whatever comes with the Z71 off road 4x4 package since its stock front it can't handle #3 setting ? I'm a little confused do you mean i can't put it on the #3 setting or you mean i can but the front can't handle it and it'll break the front or something else ? i want the truck to handle as good as possible at the end of the day i don't care how hard of a ride it is. thanks for all your help i appreciate it

Posted

 

 

 

i also don't mind a stiffer ride at all i want the best handling possible ... everything on my truck is stock suspension whatever comes with the Z71 off road 4x4 package since its stock front it can't handle #3 setting ? I'm a little confused do you mean i can't put it on the #3 setting or you mean i can but the front can't handle it and it'll break the front or something else ? i want the truck to handle as good as possible at the end of the day i don't care how hard of a ride it is. thanks for all your help i appreciate it

With setting 3 in the rear and stock sway bar up front the truck "oversteers" considerably. Not a good thing in slick conditions or with an inexperienced driver. An aftermarket sway bar up front should even things out, still not 100% if setting 3 is the right answer for even that combo.

 

I am just going to dial back to setting two, drive it and see how it is. I think I'm going to pass on the front sway bar, considering I'm on 33" all terrains on 17s.... and it's not a corvette

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Posted

With setting 3 in the rear and stock sway bar up front the truck "oversteers" considerably. Not a good thing in slick conditions or with an inexperienced driver. An aftermarket sway bar up front should even things out, still not 100% if setting 3 is the right answer for even that combo.

 

I am just going to dial back to setting two, drive it and see how it is. I think I'm going to pass on the front sway bar, considering I'm on 33" all terrains on 17s.... and it's not a corvette

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

How's it ride over bumps compared to stock?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Haven't noticed much of a difference in actual ride quality, the sway bar still allows for normal travel.

 

If you were off-roading sway bars are counter productive to suspension travel but the most travel my pavement princess sees is potholes.

Posted (edited)

I removed the side moldings, nothing crazy but a subtle change. In case anyone who doesn't know how to debadge is interested I'll tell you the steps just in case. 1) wash the area, 2) use heat gun and fishing line to remove the badge 3) quickly wash area again 4) use 3M eraser wheel and drill to take off the adhesive 5) use rapid remover to clean up the remaining adhesive residue 6) clay bar and polish 7) seal or wax

5f4f1ffc6620dfbddd23311bf332d83b.jpg

Also, swapped my oil AFE filter for my intake with a dry filter and swapped my cabin air filter with a k&n. Nothing super exciting. Hope everyone's having a good Easter

af3c47e93e446766a7452c1dc298927b.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Abearclaw
  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

When I bought my truck in Feb, I had to finance 'some' of it to take advantage of an extra $2K off, made my first payment last month, and just saw the check I sent in to pay it off this month clear, so, I paid my truck off today.. :driving:

Edited by jpinoy
  • Like 6
Posted

When I bought my truck in Feb, I had to finance 'some' of it to take advantage of an extra $2K off, made my first payment last month, and just saw the check I sent in to pay it off this month clear, so, I paid my truck off today.. :driving:

Congratulations! It makes a difference when you own a vehicle that is paid off!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I would have to read back to get a better picture in my mind of some of the other comments and what they were using for a driving scenario they based the fuel mileage off of. That is why the fuel mileage conversation is extremely difficult to make fair comparisons from. If I was to be living in town and only driving around town, light to light and some longer stretches that doesn't have a light every block, and the usual stop at a grocery store and the bank and so on and so forth, my fuel mileage even during the summer time would be so bad with my truck I don't even want to know how bad it would be !. Then add in winter time and idling to warm it up to clear the windows and driving through snowy streets etc, large heavy trucks with gas engines have NEVER been worth crap for fuel mileage and why some little pot licker of a car with wheelbarrow tires and a 1300 cc four cylinder non turbo engine was the ticket to using a mere fraction of the fuel over a full size pickup.    By the way my truck has the 34" tires as its a HC but not the BFG KO3 tires ( that was an option for my truck but the sales guy couldn't figure out what the tires actually were so that never got on the order until it was too late to change the truck order ). So what fuel mileage your getting actually sounds good for "town driving" and with my truck when I go to town the fuel mileage keeps increasing as I get closer to town because it takes quite a while to get the driveline oils warmed up ( and why it always shows better fuel mileage on the return trip from town because its already warmed up ) but once I am in town that fuel mileage average just keeps dropping the more I mess around town and then has to recover back to something reasonable again by the time I get home for an over all average.    I'd be curious what your sticker says for the factory weight of your truck, mine is close around that 7700 lb due to the options it has. But anyway the long and short is, vehicle weight, higher rolling resistance heavy tires and a hefty driveline and a relatively large gas engine make for crap fuel mileage in stop and go scenarios, all one can do is drive it easy off the line at each stop and as my dad had said over the years, drive like a raw egg is under your foot and that's the best one can do. Years back with a carbed engine and if the carb was getting a bit out of tune etc as would the ignition system, the fuel mileage on pickups with larger engines was just awful compared to what your getting. We pay the fuel price penalty for driving HD trucks over some little vehicle, that is the reality. 
    • We had two Toyota’s with that engine in the mid 80s. We had 50 gallon fuel tanks, a toolbox full of tools, an air compressor and assorted parts for our equipment. We beat those up and down pipeline ROWs until we started buying diesel trucks. Then they became parts runners and first vehicles for our teenagers first cars. Our shop Forman wrecked them both two years apart when we hired him out of high school as an apprentice. Good thing he’s an excellent mechanic. It took awhile before he could be called a good driver.
    • I have a 2025 GMC Canyon Denali.   On a trip recently the engine failed.  The dealership diagnosed a bent valve and says there is a service bulletin that indicates to 'relace the engine'.  The truck only has about 14K miles and is under warranty.   The failure occurred 5/11/2026.   So far I have worked with GM Customer Assistance and Roadside Assistance.  Evidently no engines are available and nobody will offer a date when a new one will be.   Coming up on two months with no repair or timeline and no loaner from the dealership.   GMC Customer Assistance is 'ghosting' me and keeps closing the cases I've opened with no resolution.   Hoping someone can help me on how to escalate this issue.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...