Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I did the 26/26 jumper with a piece of thermostat wire. Working fine so far.

 

Does this allow you to turn on your reverse lights when you turn on your cargo lights? The point of using the diode for 26/26 jump is to have the cargo lights on in addition to your reverse lights, when you're in reverse. If you are able to control your reverse lights with the cargo light switch, I would like to find a way to override the cargo light non-op while in gear feature, to blind the morons behind me with their brights on.

  • Like 3
Posted

 

Does this allow you to turn on your reverse lights when you turn on your cargo lights? The point of using the diode for 26/26 jump is to have the cargo lights on in addition to your reverse lights, when you're in reverse. If you are able to control your reverse lights with the cargo light switch, I would like to find a way to override the cargo light non-op while in gear feature, to blind the morons behind me with their brights on.

 

I've thought about a light bar for tailgaters.... The brights aren't an issue as both my back window and topper back windows are tinted.

  • Like 1
Posted

Does this allow you to turn on your reverse lights when you turn on your cargo lights? The point of using the diode for 26/26 jump is to have the cargo lights on in addition to your reverse lights, when you're in reverse. If you are able to control your reverse lights with the cargo light switch, I would like to find a way to override the cargo light non-op while in gear feature, to blind the morons behind me with their brights on.

This has only allowed my cargo lights and reverse lights to come on together. I tested it today and as soon as you shift to drive it shuts off both. However they will come back on when I shift to neutral.

  • Like 1
Posted

Does anyone still have any diodes to send out? I'm ready to try this on my 17.

 

I'll take two if anyone has any, after TNS gets his.

Posted

You can disregard my request for the diodes. The radio shack in my area went out of business but there was one close to where I worked. They had two left so I bought those. Radio Shack must know about this mod and increased the price to $1.50. Ha! Still one of the cheapest mod's I've done. I've traded my 2013 Ford Platinum for this truck and there are two things I was missing. The fog light switch was built in to the headlight switch on the Ford and could be pulled and left in that position to leave the fogs on. That quirk has been resolved with the jumper, now to add ambient lighting. I appreciate the research and advice. I could not pull the harness out, too scared or too stupid, so I installed the jumper with it plugged in. It was difficult to get to but I did file down the ends as directed and inserted the ends in the corners as directed. They seem to be in there good enough but my OCD will require me to use a small zip tie to help hold it in place. My OCD also noticed that the fog light indicator light on the instrument panel does not light up either. So now I find myself looking for a reflection in the car in front of me to make sure they are on. Thanks again to those who post for those of us less challenged.

  • Like 1
Posted

You can disregard my request for the diodes. The radio shack in my area went out of business but there was one close to where I worked. They had two left so I bought those. Radio Shack must know about this mod and increased the price to $1.50. Ha! Still one of the cheapest mod's I've done. I've traded my 2013 Ford Platinum for this truck and there are two things I was missing. The fog light switch was built in to the headlight switch on the Ford and could be pulled and left in that position to leave the fogs on. That quirk has been resolved with the jumper, now to add ambient lighting. I appreciate the research and advice. I could not pull the harness out, too scared or too stupid, so I installed the jumper with it plugged in. It was difficult to get to but I did file down the ends as directed and inserted the ends in the corners as directed. They seem to be in there good enough but my OCD will require me to use a small zip tie to help hold it in place. My OCD also noticed that the fog light indicator light on the instrument panel does not light up either. So now I find myself looking for a reflection in the car in front of me to make sure they are on. Thanks again to those who post for those of us less challenged.

I've noticed that all 6 RSs around here seem to be closed anymore. The only one that I know of for sure that is still open is one back home, 200 miles from here. Just did a search on RS's website, 50 miles to their nearest store.

 

Still, $1.50 is still a great deal for this mod.

Posted

Is the output for the #18 pin for the hi beams a normally closed circuit? I was working on my light bar and put the voltmeter on this pin and read +12v with the low beams, and 0v with the high beam lever activated.

Posted

Apparently I need help with this I have fired light bars back up lights fog lights everything but I can't get this one I added diodes to work with cargo light and back ups but I can't get the fogs with high beam to work I've easily tried 20 times 1 or 2 diodes each direction tried everything and can't get it need some help I've got hid headlights and have 2 led cubes for fog lights with the factory switch not sure if it going to make a difference I have a 2015 silver rally edition not sure if the wiring was changed from 14 or not

Posted

Ok, so I spent the last hour reading through this thread and this specific question wasn't asked. So the BCM handles the task of turning the fogs off with the brights and there hasn't been anyone who has successfully attempted to bypass this either...but with that said, is it possible, with the combination of jumpers, switches or relays to use the unresponsive fog light switch to toggle on/off a light bar? it would seem that You would need to intercept the fog light switch before the BCM and have that go to a relay that goes to another relay that is tapped into the high beams signal. This would allow power to the relay controlled by the fog light switch only if the highs at on. Or would I be able to tie into the high beams power source going to the fog light controlled relay allowing the use of only one relay rather than two. Any ideas?

Posted

Ok, so I spent the last hour reading through this thread and this specific question wasn't asked. So the BCM handles the task of turning the fogs off with the brights and there hasn't been anyone who has successfully attempted to bypass this either...but with that said, is it possible, with the combination of jumpers, switches or relays to use the unresponsive fog light switch to toggle on/off a light bar? it would seem that You would need to intercept the fog light switch before the BCM and have that go to a relay that goes to another relay that is tapped into the high beams signal. This would allow power to the relay controlled by the fog light switch only if the highs at on. Or would I be able to tie into the high beams power source going to the fog light controlled relay allowing the use of only one relay rather than two. Any ideas?

 

Have you seen this harness from Gen5DIY?

 

http://www.gen5diy.com/GMC/Sierra/P-P-Harnesses7/Foglamp-Harness8/Sierra-Foglamp-Harness/

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,324 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So I'm in the middle of a DOD AFM delete on my 6.2 L86 Sierra. I had a pick holding the tensioner but after I got the Cam phaser gear off I was cleaning off all the rtv and apparently I didn't have the pick seated far enough in. I bumped it and the tensioner sprang forward.  I think everything is good but I want a second opinion. The top of the tensioner is just a looped piece of plastic that rides in that channel right? There is no spring or anything is there? I got the gear and chain back on and it seems tight and everything looks right. I'm hoping nothing fell out.
    • My 2015 1500 LTZ Silverado suddenly won't go into 4 x 4 low. It will go into 4 x 4 high.
    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...