Jump to content

Foglights On With High Beams

Spurshot
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ravenkeeper Senior Enthusiast

Ravenkeeper

Posted
Posted

I did the 26/26 jumper with a piece of thermostat wire. Working fine so far.

 

Does this allow you to turn on your reverse lights when you turn on your cargo lights? The point of using the diode for 26/26 jump is to have the cargo lights on in addition to your reverse lights, when you're in reverse. If you are able to control your reverse lights with the cargo light switch, I would like to find a way to override the cargo light non-op while in gear feature, to blind the morons behind me with their brights on.

  • Like 3
  • Replies 796
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Spurshot
Spurshot

2014 SIERRA SLT FOG LIGHTS WITH HIGH BEAM HEADLIGHTS MODIFICATION This mod will let you use the fog lights on low beam same as factory. On and off with the fog light button. When the fog ligh

Spurshot
Spurshot

This was on the Duramax forum. I believe it is for a GMT 900. But the principles are likely applicable to a K2. Use this information cautiously. ------------------------------------------------------

Spurshot
Spurshot

OK, After struggling thru the schematics and online mods of past models all evening, I figured it out. This is for a Sierra and should be the same for the Silverado. It involves pushing one Diode in

Posted Images

polarys425 Enthusiast

polarys425

Posted
Posted

 

Does this allow you to turn on your reverse lights when you turn on your cargo lights? The point of using the diode for 26/26 jump is to have the cargo lights on in addition to your reverse lights, when you're in reverse. If you are able to control your reverse lights with the cargo light switch, I would like to find a way to override the cargo light non-op while in gear feature, to blind the morons behind me with their brights on.

 

I've thought about a light bar for tailgaters.... The brights aren't an issue as both my back window and topper back windows are tinted.

  • Like 1
Grjfer Enthusiast

Grjfer

Posted
Posted

Does this allow you to turn on your reverse lights when you turn on your cargo lights? The point of using the diode for 26/26 jump is to have the cargo lights on in addition to your reverse lights, when you're in reverse. If you are able to control your reverse lights with the cargo light switch, I would like to find a way to override the cargo light non-op while in gear feature, to blind the morons behind me with their brights on.

This has only allowed my cargo lights and reverse lights to come on together. I tested it today and as soon as you shift to drive it shuts off both. However they will come back on when I shift to neutral.

  • Like 1
Ravenkeeper Senior Enthusiast

Ravenkeeper

Posted
Posted

Does anyone still have any diodes to send out? I'm ready to try this on my 17.

 

I'll take two if anyone has any, after TNS gets his.

TNSmokee Enthusiast

TNSmokee

Posted
Posted

You can disregard my request for the diodes. The radio shack in my area went out of business but there was one close to where I worked. They had two left so I bought those. Radio Shack must know about this mod and increased the price to $1.50. Ha! Still one of the cheapest mod's I've done. I've traded my 2013 Ford Platinum for this truck and there are two things I was missing. The fog light switch was built in to the headlight switch on the Ford and could be pulled and left in that position to leave the fogs on. That quirk has been resolved with the jumper, now to add ambient lighting. I appreciate the research and advice. I could not pull the harness out, too scared or too stupid, so I installed the jumper with it plugged in. It was difficult to get to but I did file down the ends as directed and inserted the ends in the corners as directed. They seem to be in there good enough but my OCD will require me to use a small zip tie to help hold it in place. My OCD also noticed that the fog light indicator light on the instrument panel does not light up either. So now I find myself looking for a reflection in the car in front of me to make sure they are on. Thanks again to those who post for those of us less challenged.

  • Like 1
Ravenkeeper Senior Enthusiast

Ravenkeeper

Posted
Posted

You can disregard my request for the diodes. The radio shack in my area went out of business but there was one close to where I worked. They had two left so I bought those. Radio Shack must know about this mod and increased the price to $1.50. Ha! Still one of the cheapest mod's I've done. I've traded my 2013 Ford Platinum for this truck and there are two things I was missing. The fog light switch was built in to the headlight switch on the Ford and could be pulled and left in that position to leave the fogs on. That quirk has been resolved with the jumper, now to add ambient lighting. I appreciate the research and advice. I could not pull the harness out, too scared or too stupid, so I installed the jumper with it plugged in. It was difficult to get to but I did file down the ends as directed and inserted the ends in the corners as directed. They seem to be in there good enough but my OCD will require me to use a small zip tie to help hold it in place. My OCD also noticed that the fog light indicator light on the instrument panel does not light up either. So now I find myself looking for a reflection in the car in front of me to make sure they are on. Thanks again to those who post for those of us less challenged.

I've noticed that all 6 RSs around here seem to be closed anymore. The only one that I know of for sure that is still open is one back home, 200 miles from here. Just did a search on RS's website, 50 miles to their nearest store.

 

Still, $1.50 is still a great deal for this mod.

oburgtiger Enthusiast

oburgtiger

Posted
Posted

Is the output for the #18 pin for the hi beams a normally closed circuit? I was working on my light bar and put the voltmeter on this pin and read +12v with the low beams, and 0v with the high beam lever activated.

Bpracer3c Enthusiast

Bpracer3c

Posted
Posted

Apparently I need help with this I have fired light bars back up lights fog lights everything but I can't get this one I added diodes to work with cargo light and back ups but I can't get the fogs with high beam to work I've easily tried 20 times 1 or 2 diodes each direction tried everything and can't get it need some help I've got hid headlights and have 2 led cubes for fog lights with the factory switch not sure if it going to make a difference I have a 2015 silver rally edition not sure if the wiring was changed from 14 or not

Justin Ross New Member

Justin Ross

Posted
Posted

Ok, so I spent the last hour reading through this thread and this specific question wasn't asked. So the BCM handles the task of turning the fogs off with the brights and there hasn't been anyone who has successfully attempted to bypass this either...but with that said, is it possible, with the combination of jumpers, switches or relays to use the unresponsive fog light switch to toggle on/off a light bar? it would seem that You would need to intercept the fog light switch before the BCM and have that go to a relay that goes to another relay that is tapped into the high beams signal. This would allow power to the relay controlled by the fog light switch only if the highs at on. Or would I be able to tie into the high beams power source going to the fog light controlled relay allowing the use of only one relay rather than two. Any ideas?

Shredzy Enthusiast

Shredzy

Posted
Posted

Ok, so I spent the last hour reading through this thread and this specific question wasn't asked. So the BCM handles the task of turning the fogs off with the brights and there hasn't been anyone who has successfully attempted to bypass this either...but with that said, is it possible, with the combination of jumpers, switches or relays to use the unresponsive fog light switch to toggle on/off a light bar? it would seem that You would need to intercept the fog light switch before the BCM and have that go to a relay that goes to another relay that is tapped into the high beams signal. This would allow power to the relay controlled by the fog light switch only if the highs at on. Or would I be able to tie into the high beams power source going to the fog light controlled relay allowing the use of only one relay rather than two. Any ideas?

 

Have you seen this harness from Gen5DIY?

 

http://www.gen5diy.com/GMC/Sierra/P-P-Harnesses7/Foglamp-Harness8/Sierra-Foglamp-Harness/

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Correct way to service 2024 l8t allison trans?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I decided to give it a shot and see what sort of a gong show it would be to a pan drop themed oil change on my 2025 gas truck with the 10 speed. All indications I had seen so far was that there was no way that pan was coming out of there due to the cross over exhaust pipe not allowing enough clearance for the back end of the pan to duck out from under the valve body since it hangs lower than the pan to trans mount flange and certainly the filter does. I never touched any of the exhaust mount hardware at all, be that the engine manifolds to Y pipe, the bracket on the side of the transmission, or the two bolt flange further back behind the trans/transfer case. I put the truck up on four jack stands as there was no way I was going to struggle with that lack of clearance under the truck. The truck was cold as it had sat over night so all the trans fluid had drained to the pan, so I drained the bit of oil that would come out of the level check plug at the bottom near the front of the pan and put the plug back in to reduce the ensuing mess after that. Then took out all but one bolt front and rear and then pushed up on the pan and took out the remaining two bolts and then let the front of the pan tilt and spill out most of its contents into a drain pan. I then popped the pan gasket off its two locating nubs and kicked it a bit to the left side so it was no longer on the flange of the pan to get all the clearance I could and managed to get the pan slipped out of there by swinging the front of the pan to the right but keeping the rear part of the pan inline if not slightly to the left of its mounting flange area and lifting the front of the pan enough to keep the rear part of the pan low enough that allowed the pan to "JUST" slip out without forcing anything. I installed a new trans filter and seal and as per GM instructions on this site I torqued the two bolts to that 44 inch pound goal ( they take an 8 mm socket ) In reversing the pan procedure after I had cleaned up the pan both inside and out completely ( touching the outside of a dirty pan and dealing with installing a gasket at the same time would be a disaster ). First I slipped the pan into place and yes it took me a while as it won't go unless its slid in just at the right angles, then once the back of the pan was into the area of the flange mount, I went and got the gasket and then threaded that through the front of the pan and feeding it under the filter etc and finally working it onto the flange of the pan and lining up the two locating nubs to drop into the pan. Then lifted the pan up into place and get a couple of bolts started and check and make sure the gasket is where its supposed to be as the bolts were being put in. I never used any power tools as I don't have any of the whimsy little drive guns, I use what looks like a small screw driver handle with shank that has a 1/4 drive on the end of it and added an extension and those bolts use a 10 mm socket as some times power tools can bite a person if used on delicate parts ( torqued to 80 inch pounds ). Also should note as per rules around pulling the add plug out first, yes I cracked that loose with a 8 mm Allen bit socket on a 3/8 slim head ratchet as there isn't a lot of room to work with there either due to the exhaust on the right side of the trans.    I already had delco ULV oil on hand and of course the quart bottle pump wasn't made for those small cap threads so I had to use some other containers that the pump would fit and keep transferring oil over into them so a wasted exercise there but indeed the small pump did work just fine as ULV oil is thin and easy to pump in summer time weather. I put in 9.5 quarts as per prior minimum recommendation and yes that cut it pretty close as once I had the truck ( off the jack stands so its level ) and the trans oil up to 167f , about 6 ounces came out but a level kit or what have you could throw it off just enough that it wouldn't be enough oil so probably that 10 quarts is a good amount to put in so one doesn't have to add more oil as when its hot I sure wouldn't want to be adding oil so would have to let the exhaust cool. All I do for warming up the transmission is sit there with it in park and rev it to about 2500 rpm and it takes close to 20 minutes to get it up to that lower limit of 167f, weird how it will warm up more doing that then by driving it, I am not real keen on power braking the truck to get the temp up there and don't seem to have to either. By the way I only have 9000 miles on the truck so probably not a very good payback on doing it that soon and the magnets had such a minor thin layer of fines on them so that was good to see and the color of the oil was a darker red then new oil but still looked very good as it should and I've not done any towing with it so its been living a pretty easy life so far. The filter is made in such a way that its next to impossible to pull out the filter media but there certainly was some fines showing up there which makes sense give the trans having to break in.    I hadn't really planned on explaining this much of what I had done since there are various instruction videos kicking around or I think so, as the gist of my message as that by fluke or what have you, for some reason my truck has just enough clearance to slip the pan out from the trans. Of course there is no guarantee that other trucks like this in general will also allow the pan to be taken out without messing with the exhaust as I expect its probably a crap shoot if it will or won't, I was just happy to find out that mine would work and avoid all the other struggling and possibly damaging things in the process,     
    • BCGM
      Fog Lamps 2024 2500 HD

      By BCGM · Posted

      Do you fellas think Fog Lamps would  be a good upgrade for our 2024 2500 HD Custom ? As you probably know it did not come with them ,  Would you put in GM Chevy parts ? Do they get wired up to the switch panel ( Upfitter or whatever the correct terminology is ) on the dash ? Thanks
    • davester
      Looking at ordering a '26 WT because I want a std cab, std bed

      By davester · Posted

      It would depend on what you do to lower it.
    • txab
      Navigating senior years.

      By txab · Posted

      You got a 4 legged walker or a 4 wheel rollater?
    • GN2018
      Looking at ordering a '26 WT because I want a std cab, std bed

      By GN2018 · Posted

      Does lowering the truck change its towing capacity?  I wouldn't mind lowering mine, but I loan it out a few times during the summer for my daughter to pull her travel trailer (5,000lbs).

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...