Jump to content

Engine bay got you down...Clean it up with a new cover.

rxnotec

By rxnotec
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

rxnotec Enthusiast

rxnotec

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Those prices are right on. About $70 if you have an account. Emblem I used was a bit pricey but worth it.

 

The K&N I like. Sounds much better or rather how it should. Different in price for airraid not worth it. That's my opinion though. To each their own.

  • Like 1
  • Replies 279
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

66nova
66nova

Looks great!     I just took my cover off.

Abearclaw
Abearclaw

Just finished my engine cover!     Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

sams819
sams819

Added this to my cover on my 2016. http://www.ebay.com/itm/281855850710?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Posted Images

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

Flames anyone?

Edit: this is a Camaro cover but it looks cool.

22149b83310fdf504aeb179815fd4f9c.jpg

 

Flames and CF

 

 

Ryan

  • Like 1
GTD Enthusiast

GTD

Posted
Posted

rxnotec, thanks for sharing this. I'm ordering a cover tomorrow for my 6.2. Is there any additional hardware required?

rxnotec Enthusiast

rxnotec

Posted
  • Author
Posted

rxnotec, thanks for sharing this. I'm ordering a cover tomorrow for my 6.2. Is there any additional hardware required?

No it should be already there. There are a couple posts sticking up towards the front end part of the intake manifold it just snaps down on to and two pockets on the intake manifold cover in the back. I did not need any additional hardware other than changing the badge out from Caddilac to a chevrolet badge which are from the Cruze engine covers.

GTD Enthusiast

GTD

Posted
Posted

Ordered yesterday, installed today, $72 couldn't believe how quick my Chevy dealer got it for me. Cadillac emblem looks OK, don't think there's a circular GMC emblem available.

  • Like 1
chuckl1218 Senior Enthusiast

chuckl1218

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ordered yesterday, installed today, $72 couldn't believe how quick my Chevy dealer got it for me. Cadillac emblem looks OK, don't think there's a circular GMC emblem available.

My bad. Post 21 shows the round Chevy emblem installed and post 18 shows the link to the part number.

Don't know of a GMC version. Chevy one is for the Camaro. Hmmm.

Are there any other GMC models that have engine covers?

Edited by chuckl1218
  • Like 1
rxnotec Enthusiast

rxnotec

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Are the Caddy covers the only covers which fit?

As far as we can tell they are the only ones unless you convert the intake manifold to a LT1 intake manifold.

(I believe the LT1 manifold only works on the 6.2 though, not the 5.3. I could be wrong here)

Edited by rxnotec
rxnotec Enthusiast

rxnotec

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

My bad. Post 21 shows the round Chevy emblem installed and post 18 shows the link to the part number.

Don't know of a GMC version. Chevy one is for the Camaro. Hmmm.

Are there any other GMC models that have engine covers?

TADA

http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-91-92-93-94-95-96-97-98-99-00-New-GM-15634865-GMC-Wheel-Center-Cap-Emblem-/351138655758?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51c17eae0e&vxp=mtr

 

This would work but may be straight flat. I debated on flattening the middle to eliminate the dome issue on mine but that will come at a later day.

 

GMC Center Emblem possible solution: GM Part 15634865

 

this is not a GMC engine cover emblem but should work as one for you GMC guys and gals. This is from the older hub center covers but appears to be just shy of 3.5" so could be just like the Chevy one I did on mine.

Edited by rxnotec
rxnotec Enthusiast

rxnotec

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Anyone done the GMC logo I linked up above or found another option? curious to see some GM version photos.

rxnotec Enthusiast

rxnotec

Posted
  • Author
Posted

What about this take a hole saw cut the circle out and pop this in?

As long as it fits within the drillable space that it can clip in or maybe epoxy or super glue in its up to you. I posted an actual straight stick on version that would work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...