Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

No the rears are a set height...not adjustable like the fronts

Correct they are not adjustable like the front but they are designed to handle raising the rear with a block at least 1" I think I read in this thread they may also work up to a 2" raise but I would double check that.

Posted

I would say yes...I can't tell u that 100% cause when I did mine I also added air bags so it seemed to lift the rear a little....but I am pretty sure it will sit the same with just the shocks

Posted

Can anyone comment on this?

 

Is the ride quality on Bilsteins significantly better than the Beltech's? I am looking to soften the ride on mine, particularly the rear. I'm getting annoyed by the harshness on rippled roads, manhole covers etc. THANKS

Posted

Can anyone comment on this?

 

Is the ride quality on Bilsteins significantly better than the Beltech's? I am looking to soften the ride on mine, particularly the rear. I'm getting annoyed by the harshness on rippled roads, manhole covers etc. THANKS

I had 5100's put on the front this AM. Rode great on the way home very happy. Just put the rears on myself took it for a ride slightly stiffer but still great and I would never go back to Stock.

 

Never had Beltech's, had Bilsteins on my last truck and was very happy.

 

The Bilsteins are much better than my Z60 set up on my 1400 mile Sierra.

 

Not sure you would feel that way but I a do.

  • Like 1
Posted

So I have been reading this thread and I can't seem to find a definite answer. Can Bilsteins be ran on RC 2.5'' level front and rear? If so, what model of bilsten and what level are they set at? I have an RC 2.5 level and it rides a little rough so I am hoping to smooth it out some. I need ever inch I can get as I am running 33x12.5 on -24 wheels.

Posted

Just purchased my Full Set of Bilstein 5100's from MRT Motor Sports.Hoping it levels the truck for the most part. Now the wait begins......

  • Like 1
Posted

Just purchased my Full Set of Bilstein 5100's from MRT Motor Sports.Hoping it levels the truck for the most part. Now the wait begins......

 

Thank you for the business!! We will get these shipped out today to you, hopefully for a Wednesday or Thursday delivery.

 

 

So I have been reading this thread and I can't seem to find a definite answer. Can Bilsteins be ran on RC 2.5'' level front and rear? If so, what model of bilsten and what level are they set at? I have an RC 2.5 level and it rides a little rough so I am hoping to smooth it out some. I need ever inch I can get as I am running 33x12.5 on -24 wheels.

 

4600s (Yellow) can be used no problem. 5100s will need to be used on the lowest setting only.

 

 

 

Posted

 

Thank you for the business!! We will get these shipped out today to you, hopefully for a Wednesday or Thursday delivery.

 

 

 

4600s (Yellow) can be used no problem. 5100s will need to be used on the lowest setting only.

 

 

 

 

I had them sent to my friends house so that my wife wouldn't see what I got. I told her I was getting a $50 leveling kit lol. Going to install before she sees what I got. Wish y'all had Koozies to keep my beverages cold!! Or did I not see them on the site?

  • Like 1
Posted

 

I had them sent to my friends house so that my wife wouldn't see what I got. I told her I was getting a $50 leveling kit lol. Going to install before she sees what I got. Wish y'all had Koozies to keep my beverages cold!! Or did I not see them on the site?

 

Ive got some gear leftover from the offroad expo left over, I will send it your way. Also just shot you tracking on the shocks!

 

Thanks!

  • Like 1
Posted

 

Ive got some gear leftover from the offroad expo left over, I will send it your way. Also just shot you tracking on the shocks!

 

Thanks!

 

Awesome!!! Thanks!!!!!

Posted

Very common for the 2.5" leveling kits to have a 1.5" taller than stock rear block. Stock rear is either 1.5" or 2" if a z71, you said it measures at 3" overall which sounds like the 1.5" larger rear blocks. The 5100 are rated 1" over stock, but can really go to 2" if you are beating on them offroad.

Good info , 5100's ordered!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • In their own words:    https://blog.amsoil.com/how-engine-sludge-forms-and-how-to-prevent-it-2/   [Quote] Synthetic Oil Helps Prevent Sludge Fortunately, sludge and varnish deposits are something that can be controlled. Using thermally stable synthetic base oils reduces the rate of degradation (oxidation).   Antioxidant additives further help reduce the rate of degradation. One of the most widely used is zinc dithiophosphate. Not only is it an excellent oxidation inhibitor, but it is also an outstanding anti-wear additive.   High-Quality Additives Fight Sludge Fortunately, it is possible to address many of the issues that occur after the initial oxidation stage. Additives, such as detergents and dispersants, help promote the suspension of contaminants within the oil and keep them from agglomerating.   Detergents, which are also alkaline in nature, assist in neutralizing acids generated in the sludge-building process. Antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives are consumed during use.   To achieve maximum life expectancy, use a motor oil with high concentrations of antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives.  [End Quote]   So quality base oil and then the last sentence above. TBN and ZDP levels matter. The one thing not covered was sufficient viscosity. Sad.     And yet we now have since API SN lower amount of them all with the only real change being a slight up tick in base oil selection. Along with lower concentrations of everything that makes oil work and lower and lower viscosity there is still an insistence on longer OCI's.    How low does the peanut butter and jelly level have to get before we say it's just white bread folded?    The new smoke and mirror treatment is the 'additives are INVISIBLE' to UOA testing with a health dose of TRUST ME.    I'm not picking on AMSOIL. This is coming from all of them. Every last one of them that abandon the low wear model in favor of the high mpg/EPA compliance model. 
    • First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...