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Bilstein shocks thread

yanzhixiang

By yanzhixiang
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Yondu Enthusiast

Yondu

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Move Over said:

 


I used mine and there is about a 1/2 gap so my truck is not resting on them. My truck is also not harsh so i don’t see a reason to remove them - they had about the same amount of gap with stock shocks too.


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Also I don't think mine is harsh around town, only on the highway does it have some harshness /bounce.  

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bwilloby46
bwilloby46

I put the bilstein 5100s on the rear of my 14 High Country with a new 2" block a few weeks ago. Ride is unbelievable compared to stock. Liked it so much I got the adjustable 5100s for my front, remove

schloppy
schloppy

Hello, I'm not new to the forum but I just joined and figured I'd contribute to the community.   2016 Silverado 1500 "Z71" removed rancho's and swapped with Bilstein 5100's all around. So after d

Jullian is not my name
Jullian is not my name

I just got done with installing my 6112's on my 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Cab.  Reading some install guides on here really helped, along with printing some Chilton Repair guide torque specs that I got from

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catpartsman Enthusiast

catpartsman

Posted
Posted
So, just a quick question as much for my curiosity as anything... I have a 2.25" ProComp level installed that uses 2 pieces.  Would it be better to install 5100s in the stock position and keep the pro comp level or install the bilsteins at max lift and add the bottom 1/4" spacer from the procomp kit?
 
 

This is the same lift I had before my 5100’s. I took the top spacer out, put 5100’s at max higher and kept the bottom spacer in. The shop told me the angles are MUCH better and I shouldn’t see any problems from excessive wear. This combo plus the 2” block out back gave my truck the stance of a 2500 with some added altitude that will still fit in most parking garages.


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papageoff Enthusiast

papageoff

Posted
Posted

This is the same lift I had before my 5100’s. I took the top spacer out, put 5100’s at max higher and kept the bottom spacer in. The shop told me the angles are MUCH better and I shouldn’t see any problems from excessive wear. This combo plus the 2” block out back gave my truck the stance of a 2500 with some added altitude that will still fit in most parking garages.


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BbyDgital Enthusiast

BbyDgital

Posted
Posted

Has anybody seen any updates in regards to the release of the 6112's?  Last e-mail I have from Chas at MRT Motorsports on 11/8/2018 stated that he met with Bilstein at SEMA but they could not give them an ETA and that their production line has been severely backed up for the last 4 months.

 

I'd really like to get the 6112/5160 combo for my truck once I am ready to buy new wheels.

 

Has there been any talk of Bilstein releasing the 8112's for our trucks?

jgraves13 Enthusiast

jgraves13

Posted
Posted
Has anybody seen any updates in regards to the release of the 6112's?  Last e-mail I have from Chas at MRT Motorsports on 11/8/2018 stated that he met with Bilstein at SEMA but they could not give them an ETA and that their production line has been severely backed up for the last 4 months.
 
I'd really like to get the 6112/5160 combo for my truck once I am ready to buy new wheels.
 
Has there been any talk of Bilstein releasing the 8112's for our trucks?


No and no


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Sierra Dan Senior Enthusiast

Sierra Dan

Posted
Posted

Give up on the 6112's

The news about them came out in 2015.

Funny thing is you can buy them for the Tahoe/Yukon/Suburban but not our 1500 trucks.

Jon A Senior Enthusiast

Jon A

Posted
Posted
On 12/11/2018 at 8:37 AM, BbyDgital said:

Has there been any talk of Bilstein releasing the 8112's for our trucks?

I talked to a tech at Bilstein a few months ago, and he assured me they will make them for our trucks.  Of course, after the 6112 delay I won't be holding my breath.  Looks like a fantastic shock though, the Toyota guys are raving about them.  Hopefully they'll be available before my truck qualifies for antique license plates....

Yondu Enthusiast

Yondu

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Sierra Dan said:

Give up on the 6112's

The news about them came out in 2015.

Funny thing is you can buy them for the Tahoe/Yukon/Suburban but not our 1500 trucks.

They also make them for the 2007 to 2013 GM half tons

Edited by Yondu
2kwik4u Enthusiast

2kwik4u

Posted
Posted (edited)

OK, 120 pages into this thread and I've lost myself in all the details. Hoping I can get someone to confirm/deny a few things before I pull the trigger on a set of 5100 shocks.

 

Getting ready to put new shocks on my 2015 GMC Sierra SLT w/Z71 package. Currently has the factory Rancho Shocks at about 63k miles. I'm also running BFG KO2's in a 275/55/20 size. This is the worst riding GM I've owned, beating out the somewhat lowered '06 Tralblazer SS I had, as well as the '00 S10 that you couldn't roll a coke can under the frame. I'm suspecting it's the stiff Rancho shocks, and the stiff KO2 tires. I'm not going to change tires until these wear out, so shocks are next on the list.

 

I don't want to lift/level at all, but like the reviews of the 5100 shocks. Can someone confirm these part numbers for me to make sure I'm getting the right ones?

 

Fronts = BILSTEIN 24238304

Rears = BILSTEIN 33238319

 

Also, I remember reading somewhere that there was a less expensive alternative to these if you didn't want a lift/level. I've lost that link or info somewhere along the way. Can anyone comment on an alternative Bilstein part number that will ride the same as the 5100's, but don' t have the height adjustment on them?

 

Finally, can anyone recommend a reputable source to purchase from? Amazon appears to have them in intermittent stock, and Rock Auto only has a single of the fronts left in stock. Those are my two "go to" sources for online parts.

 

Thanks in advance!

Edited by 2kwik4u
Yondu Enthusiast

Yondu

Posted
Posted (edited)

You can go with Bilstein 4600s for no lift, but the valving is different and the 5100s are supposed to ride better.  

 

For tires, you could go with a 275/60r20 if your wheels are stock offset.  The .75" front lift would ensure there are no clearance issues.  I'd definitely make sure you do not get LT tires.  Goodyear makes a Duratrac P rated tire in 275/55 and 275/60 - the 60 will ride a tad better. If you want a aggresive tire.  

 

I finally threw some sand bags in the back of mine to fix the highway bounce.  70lbs behind each wheel well did the trick.  

Edited by Yondu
2kwik4u Enthusiast

2kwik4u

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Yondu said:

You can go with Bilstein 4600s for no lift, but the valving is different and the 5100s are supposed to ride better.  

 

For tires, you could go with a 275/60r20 if your wheels are stock offset.  The .75" front lift would ensure there are no clearance issues.  I'd definitely make sure you do not get LT tires.  Goodyear makes a Duratrac P rated tire in 275/55 and 275/60 - the 60 will ride a tad better. If you want a aggresive tire.  

 

I finally threw some sand bags in the back of mine to fix the highway bounce.  70lbs behind each wheel well did the trick.  

Thanks for the info.

 

Most likely will go with 275/55/20's again on the next set so I don't have to monkey with the speedometer and being off (even your suggested sizes aren't off by much). I've had my eyes on the Continental A/T tires. I run Continentals on everything else I own with wheels (including the Cannondale, excluding the lawn mower), and like them. The BFG's were on the truck when I bought it, and have been wearing well. Probably a year or two left in them at this point.

 

I also run around with 200lbs of sand in the bed. 100lbs on each side behind the wheel well. Tried U-Bolts, clamps, and a few other things to get the 75mph shake to go away. Sand was the cheapest and easiest. Been considering having some steel plates cut at the shop to bolt to the frame back there so I don' t have so much sand in the bed, just haven't gotten around to it.

 

Bought the truck when I was commuting 6 miles one way. Changed jobs and am now 28 miles one way with lots of interstate, and a fair amount of business travel thrown in as well. The highway shake, and super rough ride are getting old quick, but I love the truck otherwise.

Yondu Enthusiast

Yondu

Posted
Posted

I think you will like the Bilsteins.  They have a firm ride like everyone says, but they're an improvment over the Ranchos. 

 

It's funny I also considered bolting something more permanent into the rear so I don't have to explain why I have sand bags in the back or a 4wd truck, especially in the summer.  I feel the Bilsteins helped a little with the bounce on the highway, but then I threw 210lbs back there and when I got on the highway sighed and said - finally. I've since taken 1 bag out and moved the two a little further back.  

 

I have 275/65r18 tires, Goodyear Duratracs. I don't put a lot of miles on so I wanted a more aggressive tire.  If I ever upgrade it would be a 275/60r20 in a Duratrac or Trail Runner. 

Roscopcoletrain Senior Enthusiast

Roscopcoletrain

Posted
Posted
18 hours ago, Yondu said:

You can go with Bilstein 4600s for no lift, but the valving is different and the 5100s are supposed to ride better.  

 

For tires, you could go with a 275/60r20 if your wheels are stock offset.  The .75" front lift would ensure there are no clearance issues.  I'd definitely make sure you do not get LT tires.  Goodyear makes a Duratrac P rated tire in 275/55 and 275/60 - the 60 will ride a tad better. If you want a aggresive tire.  

 

I finally threw some sand bags in the back of mine to fix the highway bounce.  70lbs behind each wheel well did the trick.  

from what I understand, its the same shock, just ones yellow, ones silver, and the 5100's allow the lift. 

  • Like 1
2kwik4u Enthusiast

2kwik4u

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, Yondu said:

I think you will like the Bilsteins.  They have a firm ride like everyone says, but they're an improvment over the Ranchos. 

 

It's funny I also considered bolting something more permanent into the rear so I don't have to explain why I have sand bags in the back or a 4wd truck, especially in the summer.  I feel the Bilsteins helped a little with the bounce on the highway, but then I threw 210lbs back there and when I got on the highway sighed and said - finally. I've since taken 1 bag out and moved the two a little further back.  

 

I have 275/65r18 tires, Goodyear Duratracs. I don't put a lot of miles on so I wanted a more aggressive tire.  If I ever upgrade it would be a 275/60r20 in a Duratrac or Trail Runner. 

Sounds like the 5100's are the way to go. Would I just leave them on the lowest setting, or is there a "middle setting" that results in no lift/drop?

 

My biggest complaint with the Ranchos is the "bounce" after the hit. Most noticeable on sharp edged bumps like expansion joints and things like that. It's almost as if there is NO rebound damping, and only bound damping. Hit the bump and there is a noticeable procession after the initial hit. Feels like there are 3-4 more oscillations in the suspension before it comes to rest. The low shaft speed damping seems OK as the truck doesn't float or bounce excessively, but the high shaft speed damping is off and makes the truck to stiff overall.

 

With any luck the 5100's will cure some of that. I'm nervous on going to a P tire as I tow a LOT in the summer. 2 trips a week on average to the lake with a 5,200lb boat, 4 people, coolers, etc. Don't want to get a set of tires that tow "squishy". Had P tires on my '03 Yukon, swapped to LT tires and the towing got much better immediately.......I'll go read some other threads on that though :D

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