Bilstein shocks thread

huntr1117 · April 23, 2019

Battle Born, wondering your two cents on this... since I've already got the 2.25" ProComp kit for up front, what would be the advantage of running the 5100s with the 1/2" spacer as you suggested, vs running the 2.25" ProComp kit along with 5100s at the lowest setting? I got the kit a few months back so I'm pretty sure I'm stuck with it unless I sell it privately. Ultimately, will there be much of a difference in doing either setup?

I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure the factory rear block is 1.25" so the 3" block netted me 1.75" lift. If you use the front 5100s at the highest setting you should be at 1.85" lift. Add a 1/2" spacer that will put you at 2.35". Keep in mind that the spacer thickness is not 1 to 1. It's more like 2 to 1. So a 1/2" spacer is actually a 1/4" spacer. If you use an actual spacer that's 1/2" thick you'll gain 1" putting you at a total of 2.85" lift. I didn't catch what the year of your truck was but if it has stamped steel ucas you'll probably need aftermarket ucas if you go that high.

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SkiDooNick700 · April 23, 2019

5 minutes ago, huntr1117 said:

I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure the factory rear block is 1.25" so the 3" block netted me 1.75" lift. If you use the front 5100s at the highest setting you should be at 1.85" lift. Add a 1/2" spacer that will put you at 2.35". Keep in mind that the spacer thickness is not 1 to 1. It's more like 2 to 1. So a 1/2" spacer is actually a 1/4" spacer. If you use an actual spacer that's 1/2" thick you'll gain 1" putting you at a total of 2.85" lift. I didn't catch what the year of your truck was but if it has stamped steel ucas you'll probably need aftermarket ucas if you go that high.

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Agreed, i believe it is 1.25" as well. I have a 2015, I believe I have the stamped steel ucas, a magnet stuck to them. So you're saying a 1/4" spacer would get me the 1/2" of lift to put be around 2.35". Based on your response, it sounds like you'd suggest the Bilstein 5100s with a small spacer vs the leveling kit?

huntr1117 · April 23, 2019

Agreed, i believe it is 1.25" as well. I have a 2015, I believe I have the stamped steel ucas, a magnet stuck to them. So you're saying a 1/4" spacer would get me the 1/2" of lift to put be around 2.35". Based on your response, it sounds like you'd suggest the Bilstein 5100s with a small spacer vs the leveling kit?

My co worker has a 15 and his truck has cast steel ucas. You probably have the same. You can pretty much do either. 2.25" lift or 2.35". They'll look the same. Bilstein doesn't reccomend using any spacers with the 5100s. I ran them at stock height with the spacers hoping for the best ride. I also knew I didn't want to compress them again to change the height when I added my actual lift. I dont have experience using them any other way so I can't tell you that it would ride any worse running them at the highest setting with a small spacer. I imagine that it would be a little harsher because you're pre-loading the spring to achieve the majority of the lift.

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Grinnen · April 23, 2019

I would like to know someone who has rode on the 5100 at lowest settings and at top settings so we could know, from experience and not 3rd party anecdotal heresay, how the ride differs on and off road.

Edited April 23, 2019 by Grinnen

MBSierra17 · April 24, 2019

1 hour ago, Grinnen said:

I would like to know someone who has rode on the 5100 at lowest settings and at top settings so we could know, from experience and not 3rd party anecdotal heresay, how the ride differs on and off road.

I've had top setting, and currently have stock height setting with my zone 4.5" lift. I couldn't really tell a huge difference to be honest. I think stock setting is a little more comfortable, but hard to say. I think a bigger influence is the control arms / cv axles being strained.

Grinnen · April 24, 2019

Would you recommend the leveling kit and stock seeing for the 5100?

huntr1117 · April 24, 2019

Would you recommend the leveling kit and stock seeing for the 5100?

I would. Definitely rode better than the stock Ranchos

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Grinnen · April 24, 2019

17 minutes ago, huntr1117 said:

I would. Definitely rode better than the stock Ranchos

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So keep the 5100s at stock and use the leveling kit would be a smoother ride over setting shocks at the highest setting?

I'm aiming the best ride possible

Silverado-Hareek · April 24, 2019

54 minutes ago, Grinnen said:

So keep the 5100s at stock and use the leveling kit would be a smoother ride over setting shocks at the highest setting?

I'm aiming the best ride possible

My opinion is to use the 5100's as designed for leveling over using another leveling kit with the 5100's set to the lowest setting. If you do some research on the 5100's, you'll find that if you use them for leveling as designed, you'll end up with the ability for more shock travel distance and your factory spring will still be close to the OEM compression (still slightly more compressed/preloaded though because of the level). As to whether that rides better or not, it's purely subjective. You'll find opinions both ways. My opinion is that no matter what you do, it will be a huge improvement over the stock shocks so either way, you'll be happy. I will add that I had a 2007 Silverado with the standard size and standard load range D tires and bilstien 4600's. I currently have a 2014 with larger 33" tires in load range E (stiffer tire/more plies) and bilstien 5100's set the the 2nd highest setting. My 2014 rides rougher than my 2007 and I tend to think it's the stiffer tires more so than the shocks. But overall, the truck feels more planted and sturdy and reacts to bumps and potholes etc. incredibly well. I'm happy with my current setup as long as this truck lasts a good while and I didn't introduce a ton of problems with these modifications. We'll see.

TLDR: Be exactly like me and buy the 5100's and use them as intended for leveling and you'll be happy.

Snowcamo · April 24, 2019

My opinion is to use the 5100's as designed for leveling over using another leveling kit with the 5100's set to the lowest setting. If you do some research on the 5100's, you'll find that if you use them for leveling as designed, you'll end up with the ability for more shock travel distance and your factory spring will still be close to the OEM compression (still slightly more compressed/preloaded though because of the level). As to whether that rides better or not, it's purely subjective. You'll find opinions both ways. My opinion is that no matter what you do, it will be a huge improvement over the stock shocks so either way, you'll be happy. I will add that I had a 2007 Silverado with the standard size and standard load range D tires and bilstien 4600's. I currently have a 2014 with larger 33" tires in load range E (stiffer tire/more plies) and bilstien 5100's set the the 2nd highest setting. My 2014 rides rougher than my 2007 and I tend to think it's the stiffer tires more so than the shocks. But overall, the truck feels more planted and sturdy and reacts to bumps and potholes etc. incredibly well. I'm happy with my current setup as long as this truck lasts a good while and I didn't introduce a ton of problems with these modifications. We'll see.

TLDR: Be exactly like me and buy the 5100's and use them as intended for leveling and you'll be happy.

^^^^

MBSierra17 · April 24, 2019

2 hours ago, Grinnen said:

So keep the 5100s at stock and use the leveling kit would be a smoother ride over setting shocks at the highest setting?

I'm aiming the best ride possible

My point is that the shocks shouldn't feel any different in either of your scenarios. It's the rest of the suspension being stretched that makes it ride rougher (my theory anyway). The shock shouldn't care which notch it is on, the length of the spring with vehicle weight on it is the same in any configuration.

Snowcamo · April 24, 2019

7 hours ago, MBSierra17 said:

My point is that the shocks shouldn't feel any different in either of your scenarios. It's the rest of the suspension being stretched that makes it ride rougher (my theory anyway). The shock shouldn't care which notch it is on, the length of the spring with vehicle weight on it is the same in any configuration.

False. How ever it is a combination of both the control arms close to their articulation limits and the strut height. The higher up on the notch setting the more you compress the spring thus more stiff ride will be. It will not be much different because your working within the designed limits of said strut. Not trying to start an argument but I wish I had the correct understanding when I did mine. Probably would of done the lowest setting and a spacer of some sort on the bottom.

Edited April 24, 2019 by Snowcamo

MBSierra17 · April 24, 2019

8 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

False. How ever it is a combination of both the control arms close to their articulation limits and the strut height. The higher up on the notch setting the more you compress the spring thus more stiff ride will be. It will not be much different because your working within the designed limits of said strut. Not trying to start an argument but I wish I had the correct understanding when I did mine. Probably would of done the lowest setting and a spacer of some sort on the bottom.

Yes, spring is more compressed when weight is off the strut, but with the vehicle on the ground it should be the same. The spring constant doesn't change just because you moved a snap ring. Compressed length should be virtually identical. You've added no extra weight.

Damonator · April 24, 2019

Hey guys, I’m a newbie to the forum but thought I’d post my shock setup. Recently just changed my magneride to Fox 2.0 front and back. I have the front coilover adjusted to 2” and have a 1/2” spacer on top of the coilover assembly.

Snowcamo · April 24, 2019

Yes, spring is more compressed when weight is off the strut, but with the vehicle on the ground it should be the same. The spring constant doesn't change just because you moved a snap ring. Compressed length should be virtually identical. You've added no extra weight.

Willing to bet if someone did a side by side of lowest and highest settings mm measurements we'd see a difference in spring heights. Theory is cool but until we get actual measurments were just spectators. Lowest setting will allow more suspension travel and a better ride vs the notches above. Having said that one wipes all that extra travel away once they add spacers, but the strut still has less preload and more travel, so the ride will be better.