Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just had the 6112 kit put on my 18 6.2 slt and wow it rides so much better compared to the z71 ranches that were there. Also put 5100s in the rear. Front set at the highest setting.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, Sharp780 said:

Just had the 6112 kit put on my 18 6.2 slt and wow it rides so much better compared to the z71 ranches that were there. Also put 5100s in the rear. Front set at the highest setting.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk
 

In what way?  Is it softer?

Posted
In what way?  Is it softer?
On road it's honestly on par if not slightly firmer than the z71 ranchos. Way less body roll than stock. Offroad it soaks up everything alot better than stock going down washboard or rutted out roads around here before it would toss you around quite abit same roads with this setup very controlled and feels it has alot more stability. Braking in the vehicle doesn't feel like it wants to fight you like it did before to me anyways.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

Posted
On ‎7‎/‎28‎/‎2019 at 10:29 AM, Sharp780 said:

Just had the 6112 kit put on my 18 6.2 slt and wow it rides so much better compared to the z71 ranches that were there. Also put 5100s in the rear. Front set at the highest setting.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk
 

Glad to hear !

Posted

Just installed 5100’s on all four corners. Initial impressions are that it was well worth the expense. I had 39,000 miles on the stock Rancho’s and couldn’t stand the bouncing on the freeway. 

I put the fronts on the 4th ring for the highest lift and removed my roughcountry 2” lower block. It almost looks higher now than it did before. I’ll give it a week or two but I may end up looking for a 2” block for the rear. Here’s a picture of it after the install. 

C5C97555-5E2F-4722-A8E9-DC207F172837.jpeg

Posted
2 hours ago, damnthetorpedoes said:

Just installed 5100’s on all four corners. Initial impressions are that it was well worth the expense. I had 39,000 miles on the stock Rancho’s and couldn’t stand the bouncing on the freeway. 

I put the fronts on the 4th ring for the highest lift and removed my roughcountry 2” lower block. It almost looks higher now than it did before. I’ll give it a week or two but I may end up looking for a 2” block for the rear. Here’s a picture of it after the install. 

C5C97555-5E2F-4722-A8E9-DC207F172837.jpeg

Looks really good.....why are you interested in putting rear block if I may ask?....for a bit of brake I presume?

Posted
8 hours ago, TheGreatOne said:

Looks really good.....why are you interested in putting rear block if I may ask?....for a bit of brake I presume?

Initially it looked a little high in the front. Not sure how that is possible coming from a RoughCountry 2" level when Bilstein say theirs is a 1.85"

I put a tape to it today and I an still about .5" higher in the rear, so I will ride with it for a few weeks before going the block route. I only tow a handful of times per year and even the wake boat doesn't sag the rear too much. 

Posted

These trucks, especially the 16+ with their higher hood look nose high when "level". 

 

I put a 2" block in for a .75" rear lift when I lifted the front 1.25".  Trucks look best with a rake, especially if you want to use it as a truck. Level trucks look frumpy like they have worn out springs!

Posted
3 hours ago, Yondu said:

These trucks, especially the 16+ with their higher hood look nose high when "level". 

 

I put a 2" block in for a .75" rear lift when I lifted the front 1.25".  Trucks look best with a rake, especially if you want to use it as a truck. Level trucks look frumpy like they have worn out springs!

I started trying to get educated on blocks (would be looking for the same size you used) and there are a lot of differing opinions on tapered vs non tapered. What did you go with and how do you like it?

Posted
3 hours ago, damnthetorpedoes said:

I started trying to get educated on blocks (would be looking for the same size you used) and there are a lot of differing opinions on tapered vs non tapered. What did you go with and how do you like it?

I bought a 2" non tapered.  I had a little, very slight hard acceleration vibration stock and have a smidge less now. 

 

The blocks I bought off eBay are aluminum and powder coated.  I had to drill the alignment peg hole slightly larger, FYI.  Check that before bolting it back up.  

Posted (edited)

I just got my 6112's on this weekend and the 5160's out back, replaced the front sway with a hellwig. Didn't have time to add the rear sway. 

 

I'll say that I think that my thoughts of what it would be got to be much much more than it actually is, and although I'm not dissatisfied I was a little disappointed at first. My first order through battleborn/MRT I had to cancel because their website says they have them in stock, when they don't. Then I ordered from 4WP which had a competitive price, but then they were backordered. Which was fine, this is a bilstein issue in this case so I'll just wait. Unfortunately, they shipped me an F150 kit, so no go there. Then i just overnighted the right kit from summit and returned the one to 4wp. 

 

I installed mine on the highest setting, 1.85' lift in the front and the truck sits level now wheel well to wheel well. It also fixed my slight rubbing issue on the felt liner from my plus size stock wheel tires. 

 

The ride is now very much more controlled, low speed bumps are significantly reduced and the truck doesn't lean or nose dive like it used to. At higher speeds over bumps it still has that shimmy where you feel like the truck is stepping out on you, albeit slightly reduced. 

 

For the money, I think that it was a good investment, if I had to do it again I'd pony up the cash for the kings. 

 

 

Edited by SWOYER
Posted
3 hours ago, SWOYER said:

I just got my 6112's on this weekend and the 5160's out back, replaced the front sway with a hellwig. Didn't have time to add the rear sway. 

 

I'll say that I think that my thoughts of what it would be got to be much much more than it actually is, and although I'm not dissatisfied I was a little disappointed at first. My first order through battleborn/MRT I had to cancel because their website says they have them in stock, when they don't. Then I ordered from 4WP which had a competitive price, but then they were backordered. Which was fine, this is a bilstein issue in this case so I'll just wait. Unfortunately, they shipped me an F150 kit, so no go there. Then i just overnighted the right kit from summit and returned the one to 4wp. 

 

I installed mine on the highest setting, 1.85' lift in the front and the truck sits level now wheel well to wheel well. It also fixed my slight rubbing issue on the felt liner from my plus size stock wheel tires. 

 

The ride is now very much more controlled, low speed bumps are significantly reduced and the truck doesn't lean or nose dive like it used to. At higher speeds over bumps it still has that shimmy where you feel like the truck is stepping out on you, albeit slightly reduced. 

 

For the money, I think that it was a good investment, if I had to do it again I'd pony up the cash for the kings. 

 

 

 

how is it over speed bumps and hitting dips at an angle? My truck has the NHT shocks and it has a lot of bouncing like a bobble head. My car is one initial bounce and then totally settled. Truck is like a trampoline. I want to do the 6112 up front (due to weight of the front end thinking the larger diameter shock would help with controlling vertical oscillation).  

Posted
On 7/18/2019 at 1:17 PM, mbatzel14 said:

Been watching and reading this thread for a VERY long time now.

Finally bit the bullet and ordered everything.

 

2014 Sierra 1500 AT Extended Cab w/ 87k miles

 

Last piece of the puzzle is tires.

I will get everything installed and see what I actually have to work with.

Right now I am thinking 275/65/20's

 

What I ended up getting - 

Camburg UCA's 

6112's in the front

5160's in the rear

5160 mounting brackets

All new mounting hardware

Mine FINALLY goes on this Friday and picking her up Sat morning! Can't wait to see how she does. Ended up with 275/65/20 Toyo AT2's.  Once I get it home, she gets hooked up to the horse trailer and then tested on a 2 hour haul out to Lancaster 

Posted
8 hours ago, mbatzel14 said:

Mine FINALLY goes on this Friday and picking her up Sat morning! Can't wait to see how she does. Ended up with 275/65/20 Toyo AT2's.  Once I get it home, she gets hooked up to the horse trailer and then tested on a 2 hour haul out to Lancaster 

pics?

Posted (edited)
On 8/7/2019 at 6:23 AM, mbatzel14 said:

Mine FINALLY goes on this Friday and picking her up Sat morning! Can't wait to see how she does. Ended up with 275/65/20 Toyo AT2's.  Once I get it home, she gets hooked up to the horse trailer and then tested on a 2 hour haul out to 

Stock wheels? What's the backspacing? 

Double check before putting on those camburg uca. Think the minimal amount is around 5" or so. Maybe little less is ok. Believe camburg recommends 0 offset wheels. Which is exactly what I have. Heck my stock uca had a slight rub from my stock 20's. I like the slightly aggressive look with the 0 offset as well. Pokes out about an 1- 1.5 with the cooper at3 xlt 285/65 18.

Wheels are black rhino Mozambique.

Good luck.

Another thing. I have the 6112 at max and also 1" shackle lift on the rear and they look same height. Maybe that's just cause my driveway is sloped? I'll check on flat ground today. Thought it should have at least 1" rake. No worries as I rarely tow or haul around anything atm. If I do more towing I might add bags or active suspension.

I know pics. I'll try to pop some up later.

Just measured and sitting 1" higher rear.

Have to use photo editer to upload. I'll still try later

Edited by Slash L86

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,395 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...