Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
So, finally installed my 5100’s up front so I have them all the way around now. The truck definitely rides more planted now and handles bumps and potholes and rough roads a lot better. I chose to put the ride height at the 2nd setting which says 3/4” avg lift. I think that’s right about what I got, at least between that and an inch. And I wasn’t looking for much. Never really been interested in lifting or leveling and I don’t mind the rake usually because I haul a big ATV or tow multiples on a trailer. but it seems like the gm trucks have more than others. So before I had just over 3” of rake, and now I have just under 2-1/4”.

One thing I definitely noticed tho is that the steering really tightened up. I did an alignment at the same time and that’s right on, but when I’m at full lock left or right, I also noticed the front of the tires are rubbing on my UCA’s now and didn’t before. And this isn’t all that much lift.

So my question is: Is that normal, and to be expected? And is that gonna cause problems for the UCA’s/ tires in the long term? If so I’m probly gonna remove these and drop it back down to factory height cuz I already don’t like the way the steering feels, and to do damage over 3/4” front end lift isn’t worth it to me.

Thanks for any info, peeps!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have no experience in the matter. That being said, I would think from what your describing there is stress on everything which equates to less service life. How much less is hard to say.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Posted
On 8/15/2019 at 9:32 AM, slide187 said:

So, finally installed my 5100’s up front so I have them all the way around now. The truck definitely rides more planted now and handles bumps and potholes and rough roads a lot better. I chose to put the ride height at the 2nd setting which says 3/4” avg lift. I think that’s right about what I got, at least between that and an inch. And I wasn’t looking for much. Never really been interested in lifting or leveling and I don’t mind the rake usually because I haul a big ATV or tow multiples on a trailer. but it seems like the gm trucks have more than others. So before I had just over 3” of rake, and now I have just under 2-1/4”.

One thing I definitely noticed tho is that the steering really tightened up. I did an alignment at the same time and that’s right on, but when I’m at full lock left or right, I also noticed the front of the tires are rubbing on my UCA’s now and didn’t before. And this isn’t all that much lift.

So my question is: Is that normal, and to be expected? And is that gonna cause problems for the UCA’s/ tires in the long term? If so I’m probly gonna remove these and drop it back down to factory height cuz I already don’t like the way the steering feels, and to do damage over 3/4” front end lift isn’t worth it to me.

Thanks for any info, peeps!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm on the 3rd setting and there was no difference in steering feel.  That much of a change shouldn't even require an alignment really. 

 

If you're on stock wheels and tires you shouldn't be close to rubbing either.  Something is way off. 

Posted

Yeah I mean. That’s what I’m saying. Mechanic did the alignment after the install and he said it all looked good. And he’s very good.  So any ideas on where to look for what could be goin on??

Posted

There was a guy that got the wrong ones before, can you verify the part numbers on the unit?  Post some pics up of them installed too. 

Posted

Bought the 5100's. I put the rears on while I wait for the front to be delivered. The rear substantially addressed the bobble head feeling as well as helped with increased traction around corners when starting from a stop as it keeps the rear wheels more plated. It does cause a little bit more jarring on rougher roads but for the most part, the benefits outweigh the cost. 

 

I am happy with the result so far. I will be installing the fronts tonight on the 3rd setting (1.25"?). Hope the install goes smooth as I haven't changed springs in some time and plan to use those cheap rentals from Autozone or similar. 

Posted
Bought the 5100's. I put the rears on while I wait for the front to be delivered. The rear substantially addressed the bobble head feeling as well as helped with increased traction around corners when starting from a stop as it keeps the rear wheels more plated. It does cause a little bit more jarring on rougher roads but for the most part, the benefits outweigh the cost. 
 
I am happy with the result so far. I will be installing the fronts tonight on the 3rd setting (1.25"?). Hope the install goes smooth as I haven't changed springs in some time and plan to use those cheap rentals from Autozone or similar. 
Take them to a shop! Dont risk hurting yourself to save 50 bucks. I attempted this with the strut compressor from autozone and the spring flew out! Not worth your saftey. All they clamps they have will bend backwards be for the springs are even compressed.

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted
8 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

Take them to a shop! Dont risk hurting yourself to save 50 bucks. I attempted this with the strut compressor from autozone and the spring flew out! Not worth your saftey. All they clamps they have will bend backwards be for the springs are even compressed.

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk
 

Amen James! 

The big box store rental compressors are designed for car MacPherson struts and not our trucks.

Posted
30 minutes ago, Sierra Dan said:

Amen James! 

The big box store rental compressors are designed for car MacPherson struts and not our trucks.

Sounds good. Likely, I'll see what they are able to do for me. 

Posted

Sitting at Big O who is swapping the springs now. Having seen them up close, y’all are on point suggesting bringing them in! 

 

The removal was fairly straight forward and thankfully there was a lot of info here what to do/expect. 

 

What is is the torque on the strut mounting bolts? What about that sway bar bushing thing? 

 

Thanks! 

Posted

Finished the install last night on the 2nd to highest perch. Big o tires charged me $100 to swap the springs. Ouch! 

 

Definitely need alignment as now as now it kind of wonders but I’ll het that taken care of in the next week or so. 

 

Pretty thank you happy with the results. Will report long term soon. 

Posted

** UPDATE and a honest 250mi review**

 

Got the truck back Saturday morning from the shop. First impression - WOW!! It almost sits like a 2500 does from the factory. It looks like an AT should. I am in love with the overall feel of it and the way it sits. The truck has an ever so slight rake to it still which I love. I need to upload pics to photo bucket and then I will post them up here. There is minor rubbing when backing up with the 275/65/20's. I was wrong about the stock 20" AT rims fitting with the Camburg arms. They hit at full lock and I am currently addressing it. I have G2 1.25" spacers on the way to see how that works out. I have delt with G2 in the Jeep world so they should be fine. Spidertrax does not make spacers for our trucks. They make a 6 x 5.5 spacer but the bolts are Toyota size (too small). I love the look of the AT rims so they aren't changing. For right now I can get away with 98% of my driving with out ever having to go full lock on the wheels. It handles a standard right or left turn just fine. The tires are fully under the fenders like stock. With the spacers it should sit how I would like. Top of the tire is under the top of the fender and slight poke from the rocker edges. 

 

Now on to the ride. I have logged 250mi so far of mixed road driving. I live in central NJ and take the NJ turnpike daily to work. Around home is back country roads that twist / turn and vary from 25-50mph. 0-30mph these shocks are meh for bumps and such. I knew buying them that they aren't meant for low speed control and are not built for it. They do have a planted feel and reminds me of my lifted Yota or Jeep. My Jeep was a fully custom Rokmen system so its not what most are used to when driving a lifted Jeep. The truck is smooth but has that feel to it we all know. You can barely notice road hum from the AT2's and I drove home last night from dinner with the wife and had the windows up. She commented that there isn't the loud HUM to them and that she approved. 40mph and over these shocks wake up. Just drove 287 where there are plenty of expansion joints, dips, bumps and pavement patches in a concrete roadway. The truck just takes it. Cruised at 75-80mph the entire 35mi stretch of TP to and from work and loved it. I love driving the truck now. Its not just a generic run of the mill truck anymore. 

 

Wife took the truck Sunday with the horse trailer in tow. Ben the Clydesdale on the drivers side and Oliver the paint/draft mix on the passenger. Yes, the wife owns a Clydesdale and rides him in a English saddle on the trails near home haha. Anyway, the truck got an approval from her and her only complaint is that it needs AMP steps or sliders to assist her in getting in. She said she was going to get them for my BDAY but I chose flooring for the house instead haha. Priorities I keep telling myself haha. The wife takes the truck quite a bit as we own a horse / chicken farm in addition to our full time jobs so her opinion does matter. She takes it once a month out to Lancaster for feed so I want her to enjoy it. I support her hobbies and she mine. With the trailer on and the boys in, it has a slight nose up rear squat to her. I notice it but its not terrible. Eventually the Firestone airbag kit will go in to help with feed runs. Between the boys, tact and trailer I would guess 4500-5000lbs. If you made it this fair, congrats and thank you! 

 

Now for the breakdown :

6112 Kit - 580

5160's - 320

5160 Mounting Kit - 80

All new GM hardware - 200 

Camburg UCA - 780

Tires / M&B / Alignment / Install - 2000

 

Total OTD = $3960

 

  • Like 2
Posted
On ‎8‎/‎20‎/‎2019 at 9:33 AM, madsen203 said:

Finished the install last night on the 2nd to highest perch. Big o tires charged me $100 to swap the springs. Ouch! 

 

Definitely need alignment as now as now it kind of wonders but I’ll het that taken care of in the next week or so. 

 

Pretty thank you happy with the results. Will report long term soon. 

Was the $100 charge with the units on the truck? If so that is not bad.

Also, did you get an alignment?

 

Posted

Great review. Thanks!

20 hours ago, mbatzel14 said:

** UPDATE and a honest 250mi review**

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Dealer just confirmed that GM is "out of AC compressors."  Not sure if all 2019 to 2026 trucks use the same compressor, but a shortage like that is hard to believe.  
    • I think we're reaching the end of constant projects/work.   The water pump bolt appears to have self-sealed, as it's not leaking anymore. I'll take it, and, I'm ready should it self-unseal! I was also getting an oil leak at the front oil pan seal and timing cover and came to find a pan bolt on the corner wasn't even finger-tight. Too easy. And, it was. But, it appears tightening it has reduced a leak producing spots on the ground every time I parked, to just a weep, leaving an occasional dot on the cardboard that lives under it while parked. That's acceptable on a 30 year old engine in my book. I do hate leaks, but, replacing the pan seal is quite the job.   The rear washer line is reconnected and the sprayer works, although getting an intermittent washer fluid drip off the bottom. I think it's just residual...the reservoir filled up the channel in the rear floor and drained down into the upside-down spare tire/wheel. So there are residual puddles all over under there, will wait a few days for it to spill out and dry before I go chasing a potential leak.   The door speaker...no dice. Speaker works just fine, it's that channel in the factory amp that's gone bad. Can't win 'em all. And, whomever buys this will probably tear out the factory radio for something more modern anyway.   I put about 110 miles on it yesterday. Put a lot of wind and heat into it with some mountain driving. Still runs great. Near the top of the pass I got off on a gravel side road and put about 10 miles on with 4hi engaged. Works great.   If ya squint, she's mint! God I wish these were still in production. I can see why they're not. They're rudimentary bordering on agricultural. They began life as a pickup truck and then modern society demanded the rear be enclosed for kids and crap. They're still a pickup underneath, and that gives them lots of ride character, sway and bounce and bump steer. They're alive on the road, and, at least for purposes of nostalgia, it makes driving one a lot of fun.   The Check Engine light did come back on the pass, P0134 for the upstream O2 sensor dropping out. Putting heat into the exhaust causes it after about 10-15 seconds of increased load at higher RPM. The downstream sensor is completely mangled (someone clearly had a rough time removing it, but they didn't replace it?) so I'll just put two in it. For what, mostly to cure the CEL, I can tell the cat is damaged. It's not plugged or fractured, but it's not catalyzing. There's some guilt in not fixing it, but at a cost of $500+, the truck just won't get driven much under my watch. I dislike the smell...running the truck in the shop even with both doors open and the overhead fans blasting, I still reek of pre-cat exhaust. Sticks to clothing and everything else.   Window motor (I'm dreading this), and tires, and that should be about it. 50/50 on Starfire Solarus H/T's, or spending $20 more per tire and going with Cooper Discoverer RT's. I like the look of the RT's a lot more, but is it worth it? I've got a really good (just very old) Toyo Open Country XTX on there now and I like it.  
    • From what I've seen, they "could" sell the switch but designed the assembly such that the switch can't be readily removed and replaced without removing a plastic locating pin.  Sure appears aimed at forcing the end user to purchase a $900 shifter assembly instead of a $20 switch.  Thankfully I still have some extended warranty left...  this one has had warranty repairs almost every 5K miles from the day I bought it.  
    • I'm well aware of the typical bathtub failure curve, but plotted, this truck has been more like an elevated straight line.  It started days off the lot with misfires that GM couldn't solve for almost 2 years, and steadily continued over the last 5 years with repeat replacements of wiring harnesses, camera modules, cameras, parking sensors, head unit, rear windows, rear leaf springs and bushings, lower control arms, a radiator, and now an ac compressor and a column shift assembly.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...