Jump to content

2003 GMC Sierra No Brake Lights

jput2014

Recommended Posts

jput2014 New Member

jput2014

Posted
Posted

I am not sure if I am posting in the wrong place...so I am sorry if that's the case. I have a 2003 Sierra on which I had the heating coil replaced last month. A couple of days after the vehicle was returned to me I noticed that the cruise control stopped working. Last week my wife was following me home and noticed that I did not have any brake lights (all 3 brake lights not working, but signals and tail lights are fine). I checked all of the obvious things (fuses, pedal switch, and bulbs) and found that I had 12v on both sides of the fuse, but nothing at all in the switch plug. I found a schematic and realized that the only way this could happen is if the wire from the main fuse box to the switch has lost connection somewhere. So I traced the wire from the switch back and found that the mechanic who replaced my coil did not plug the brake switch back in. My problem is that I cannot find where it goes. For clarification, it is the wire that comes off of the switch on the brake pedal. It runs up behind the dash (I had to take most of the dash apart to find it), just under the top dash cover, and runs horizontally across the dash to about the center ofo the dash and stops. I have looked all over that area and many others but I cannot find anywhere for it to plug in to. I have looked for pictures online and cannot find anything. Please someone point me in the right direction here. Thanks for any help you can provide.

gmtech4 Senior Enthusiast

gmtech4

Posted
Posted

I am not sure if I am posting in the wrong place...so I am sorry if that's the case. I have a 2003 Sierra on which I had the heating coil replaced last month. A couple of days after the vehicle was returned to me I noticed that the cruise control stopped working. Last week my wife was following me home and noticed that I did not have any brake lights (all 3 brake lights not working, but signals and tail lights are fine). I checked all of the obvious things (fuses, pedal switch, and bulbs) and found that I had 12v on both sides of the fuse, but nothing at all in the switch plug. I found a schematic and realized that the only way this could happen is if the wire from the main fuse box to the switch has lost connection somewhere. So I traced the wire from the switch back and found that the mechanic who replaced my coil did not plug the brake switch back in. My problem is that I cannot find where it goes. For clarification, it is the wire that comes off of the switch on the brake pedal. It runs up behind the dash (I had to take most of the dash apart to find it), just under the top dash cover, and runs horizontally across the dash to about the center ofo the dash and stops. I have looked all over that area and many others but I cannot find anywhere for it to plug in to. I have looked for pictures online and cannot find anything. Please someone point me in the right direction here. Thanks for any help you can provide.

You take it back to him , it's called a "comeback" not your problem

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Gas Prices

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • Chuck FB
      Joke Thread

      By Chuck FB · Posted

    • txab
      Gas Prices

      By txab · Posted

      $3.59  
    • needafix
      2019+ Brake failure, it's complicated

      By needafix · Posted

      I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...