Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
On 5/14/2018 at 12:41 AM, z71truck82 said:

Just confirming the black HD has 35x12.5x18 tires with no lift at all? That’s crazy. 

Correct, I'm running Bfgoodrich 35x12.5x18 on stock wheels w/ no lift or modification of any kind to the suspension.

 

I was originally concerned about clearance, but any shop I spoke with or post I read did not actually mount one and check clearance prior to lifting.

 

Will always consider a lift / spacers or new wheels but for now the rubbing is not an issue.

 

driver-side-.thumb.png.0b6e48a8ef99eb3e39855bbe5695e1c5.png

 

side-shot.thumb.jpg.cc7b5e815e754c7fece9cf649454b059.jpg

 

Driver side rubbing chassis at full lock

 

full-lock-rub-driver-side.thumb.jpg.6cc9355e7cf3a1eb2cd1b8e397eadba8.jpg

 

passenger side rubbing at full lock

 

full-lock-rub-pass-side.thumb.jpg.dcd9e2a8fee689c54be26244213d0fc2.jpg

 

Sway bar has no contact 

Edited by OpsWest
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Okay cool thanks. I ended up ordering 17x9 +18 offset wheels, and 295/70R17 tires (33.3”x11.77”). Hope it will all fit. Might give the torsion bar bolts like 2 full turns to get front end up about .5”. I tow a 7500k TT so want to keep the rake.

Edited by z71truck82
Posted
On 5/14/2018 at 2:24 AM, z71truck82 said:

Going to get after market 17s with at least an 18mm offset. Can you attach a link to your pictures please.

I"m guessing that was directed towards me. I don't have any pictures in my gallery, but here's a link to the build thread where I posted pictures of my truck along the way: 

 

Posted
On 5/19/2018 at 2:10 PM, z71truck82 said:

Last question...when you turned the keys did you jack up one side at a time or both? I think I will turn 4 times and see if the tires fit. Thanks

I did one side at a time, but there's no reason you couldn't do both, as long as you can find a good placement for the jack. 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Just sharing my experience with my 2018 Silverado HD. With 20x9 wheels +18 offset and Nitto Exo Grappler 275/60/20 (measure 33.25x11), they fit with no rubbing on completely stock height. The tires come VERY close to rubbing on the thick gatorback mudflaps. Without the mudflaps (or maybe with a set of kickbacks), you may fit one size bigger tire with this offset wheel.

Posted
On ‎6‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 10:03 PM, z71truck82 said:

Thanks GForce! Would you mind posting a picture, including the ones where we can see how much the tires stick out of the wheel well. Thanks!!

here's a couple pics. I'd say the tires stick out roughly 3/4" - 1" passed the fender well.

comp.JPG

truck8.jpg

truck9.jpg

truck10.jpg

Posted

Anybody know if I can fit Nitto Terra Grappler G2 295 60 R20's on a stock 2015 2500 High Country without doing anything to the torsion bars? 

 

And if it just needs a little adjusting with the torsion bars will it make it that much rougher of a ride?

 

Thanks!

Posted
On 6/20/2018 at 12:51 PM, czamarron5 said:

Anybody know if I can fit Nitto Terra Grappler G2 295 60 R20's on a stock 2015 2500 High Country without doing anything to the torsion bars? 

 

And if it just needs a little adjusting with the torsion bars will it make it that much rougher of a ride?

 

Thanks!

If you're keeping the stock rims, they'll probably fit without any lift. However, if they don't, then it won't take much torsion bar cranking to make them clear. And, as long as you keep the front lift at 2" or less (and add shock extensions) the ride will be just fine. 

Posted
Anybody know if I can fit Nitto Terra Grappler G2 295 60 R20's on a stock 2015 2500 High Country without doing anything to the torsion bars? 
 
And if it just needs a little adjusting with the torsion bars will it make it that much rougher of a ride?
 
Thanks!


If they don’t rub your going to be very close. I just put on the G2’s in 275/65/20 with aftermarket wheels at +15mm offset. I was very close to the front fender and would just rub the liner at the back with full turn. Your a little wider but with the stock wheels. Like the other post said if they do rub you probably won’t need much more to clear.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
On 5/15/2018 at 8:53 AM, OpsWest said:

Correct, I'm running Bfgoodrich 35x12.5x18 on stock wheels w/ no lift or modification of any kind to the suspension.

 

I was originally concerned about clearance, but any shop I spoke with or post I read did not actually mount one and check clearance prior to lifting.

 

Will always consider a lift / spacers or new wheels but for now the rubbing is not an issue.

 

driver-side-.thumb.png.0b6e48a8ef99eb3e39855bbe5695e1c5.png

 

side-shot.thumb.jpg.cc7b5e815e754c7fece9cf649454b059.jpg

 

Driver side rubbing chassis at full lock

 

full-lock-rub-driver-side.thumb.jpg.6cc9355e7cf3a1eb2cd1b8e397eadba8.jpg

 

passenger side rubbing at full lock

 

full-lock-rub-pass-side.thumb.jpg.dcd9e2a8fee689c54be26244213d0fc2.jpg

 

Sway bar has no contact 

good to see this. now im very much considering running a 35x11.5/20 with my stock 20s. (from research, they appear to be the same width and offest as your 18s. )

  • 4 months later...
Posted

I have a 2015 GMC 2500HD All Terrain with stock 18 inch wheels and 265/70r18 tires. What is that largest tires I can fit on these factory wheels without rubbing. I was thinking of the BFGoodrich All Terrain KO2 285/65r18. Thanks for you input

Posted

285 75r18 on 18x9 with a +12 offset, the offset had me switching the stock keys for aftermarket torsion bar keys, so I could get the tire off the front mud flap at full lock.

IMG_1725.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 87 down as low as $5.14 here... winning!
    • Progress... sort of.   Intake is disassembled, spider is out, fuel lines removed. Used a torch on the stripped screw with the lower intake off, much easier when I've got the intake sitting on my workbench, I made it talk. Walked right out with a pair of vice grips once it was nice and toasty hot.   New parts are piling up on my service cart waiting to be installed. Distributor, temperature sensor, new gaskets, fuel line kit, themostat, water neck.   My new pickle is I don't want to spend $600 on a replacement spider. I'm not sure IT is bad. I'm probably splitting hairs. Or it's $300 to send mine away and another 3 weeks of the truck just sitting. I have half a mind to assemble everything with the old spider to see if I can get away with just replacing the fuel pressure regulator to be safe. The obvious issue was the gushing high pressure fuel line which will be replaced. Getting to the spider really isn't that hard, and now I know what I'm doing , swapping it would be a breeze should it absolutely need one. Stupid, or smart?   The part that gives me pause is replacing the distributor. Well, it's already out. And I didn't mark it, whoopsie! Engine was at TDC when I removed it, I know that, so upon correct reinstall the metal tip on the rotor should point to the TDC mark on the distributor because that's where it was pointing on the old distributor. Worst case I'm a tooth off and have to re-stab it.   But then, what? I assume the truck will start. It doesn't appear the timing can be set. Here's the problem: These distributors can't be rotated but a degree or two, by design. What I read is Cam ****** needs to be -2 to +2 degrees, ideally at 0 (and checked/set above 1000 rpm). There should be enough wiggle to get that properly set, but checking the reported value is another potential issue. My Actron 9185 scanner says it supports enhanced GM PIDs and Cam ****** is one of them but it's unclear that I'll be able to correctly see it over OBD 1.5. I can see why people end up junking these things with life left in them. They're an absolute nightmare with tweener-year diagnostics/electronics and unobtanium parts.   Fingers crossed it starts and idles nicely. There can be hope, right? I'ma buy a lottery ticket the same day just in case.   Next steps..DO IT. I have not installed an intake before so I've been reading and watching a lot. Some say NO RTV except on china walls, some say DO RTV on water ports but not fuel/air intake. 1/4 or 3/8 bead on China walls? I think my strategy will be, obviously, RTV china walls with overlap on the gasket corners. Chapstick-style RTV the water ports. Leave intake ports dry. The only set of intake gaskets I could find locally are Edelbrock performance gaskets (uh...for an asthmatic 190hp V6? LOL) so we'll see how they do.   #NoToolLeftBehind. It took an hour, but my recovery mission for my deep 10mm socket was successful. It had rolled down the bellhousing and wedged itself between what I think are the fuel lines? I couldn't see it at all, but with a junk antenna I had laying around, I blindly went poking/sweeping for it, heard it clink, raised the truck, and caught a sliver glimpse of chrome with a flashlight way up there in Narnia. I had pushed it farther along the lines holding it captive, but within access of severely improvised tools, poking and cursing at it to finally knock it free to where I could get a fingertip on it to bring it home.    Not much to see.      
    • Thats crazy considering im right next door (Indiana)
    • For a limited time, retail and commercial accounts receive an AMSOIL Vinyl Tool Tray with their order of $500 or more when they use code TRAY726 at checkout. The promotion runs through July 21, 2026.   Order at https://syntheticadvantage.com   Want to use AMSOIL in your business or sell at your store, apply here.  https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/?zo=521390  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...