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Posted (edited)

AD544886-5543-471B-B8C3-9EDB839ECFCB.thumb.jpeg.e7be10c4a65e29e92a64bc3bfe5052de.jpeg37107B27-6E1D-43AA-8F9F-4DBC08389CC6.thumb.jpeg.d0b5c8c277e763723f7c98d20056964d.jpeg

Not sure what you’re asking about.  What we inserted is the round frame plugs, that I got off of Amazon for $12.

Edited by Ravenkeeper
Added Pictures.
  • Like 1
Posted
10 hours ago, Crazyjoker77 said:

 

Are those the factory wheel liners? They look the same felt material that the fronts are made of.  I've been trying to get some people to post pics of them and the aftermarkets to compare how far they come down.  I was hoping they would drop down another few inches to cover up the frame.  Any chance you take a picture look up at the where the liner and box meet? Any chance of hiding a LED strip there without it showing the actual strips?

This is the best I could get where it meets the bed. This is on a GMC so I have the wheel well trim also. It's tucked up enough to hide the LEDs from anyone who isn't blatantly looking for them. Hope this helps.

1124181118a.jpg

  • Thanks 1
Posted
12 hours ago, goeb34 said:

What kind of foot lighting did yall do?

 

I just used some bulk 5050 RGB led strips with a chinese RGB RF wireless controller.

 

  2K73f2V.jpg

 

DV3M77z.jpg

 

ymlgjHR.jpg

 

1nujvoI.jpg

 

Ot7a6zd.jpg

 

I redid the rears since I took those pictures and made a quick bracket so the leds face back instead of straight down.

 

ilS6a3a.jpg

 

Honestly the novelty of RGB gets old quick and I ended up just setting it to a blue that matches the stereo controls and dimmed them cause they are a bit excessive at night.

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Posted
Did some budget rock lights.  Hooked it up to my factory upfitter switch I installed for the lightbars.
 
-9 $ worth of waterproof LEDs
-4 $ Waterproof Sleeves 
-3 $ Tube of silicone
-2 $ Stainless steel metal Ties.
-20 $ 18G wire
- 9 $ Waterproof connectors (so I can remove the wheel liners)
-7 $ Wire loom
 
Made the harnesses and ran them to the back but Holding off mounting the LEDs untill I order some rear liners since mine Didn't come with them from factory and I don't want to drill into the metal to mount them.
 
Pictures make them look much more blue than they actually are.
VJEHLAE.jpg
 
Dr6mSUO.jpg
 

So I’m halfway across the country from the truck but I screwed into the well up top but just chose a spot that it didn’t go into the bed. I can send a pic when I get back next week but I don’t have the liner in back either so I chose to drill but I’m waiting on new pods to come in with the proper wiring and a better Bluetooth app


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Posted
Was it pretty secured in the lower position before you put in back in the CD slot? I have a tablet mounted below with a home made mount, and this looks like a better solution for me. I'd need it to hold a 7 inch tablet. 

It handled an iPhone7 pretty good! There is no real support there but it held okay. When I moved it to the cd slot I noticed some slight warping of the plastic from it. It eventually went back to normal. I’m sure if something that weighs more would hold though.


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  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 8/28/2018 at 7:50 PM, pgamboa said:


Nope. With the HMI unlocked, I gained the camera icon that allows me to call the camera up.


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Hi Phil I would like to unlock my HMI do you have kits for sale?

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Posted

Orange piping, under $16. Did the front and back doors. 

IMG_20181222_130653.thumb.jpg.7ce0c76bfb6a69d541878d502886daa8.jpg

  • Like 5
Posted
Hi Phil I would like to unlock my HMI do you have kits for sale?

Nope. I don’t sell the kits. The last HMI Sale was was part of a dash take off.


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Posted

Ditch lights arrived today and just finished installing them.  Lights were 26$ for the pair and the brackets I snagged for 12$

 

Lights were advertised as 20W each, measured them pulling 14.1W that like all other LEDs I've tested stays constant power sweeping voltage from 11V to 14.8V Due to constant current drivers used.  Seems to be pretty common with LED bars that they advertise the max W of the chipset used and not the actual power.

 

NNFW38o.jpg

 

bpi0jya.jpg

 

That Clearance

4l4dbmT.jpg

 

I was originally torn on if I should mount them on the sides or the back of the hood, but just decided to go with them mounted on the back side.  I took some comparison pics of both, so may as well post them.

 

Side

a8GJXaE.jpg

 

Back

9jh1YMa.jpg

 

Side

EhfkSQ6.jpg

 

Back

1Nc2Mvj.jpg

 

Side

lq4Uq91.jpg

 

Back

Ess8z83.jpg

 

Side

eZLjyZH.jpg

 

Back

hk4UH0G.jpg

 

Posted (edited)

Covered the distorted flush mount factory convex mirror in the driver's mirror with a proper 3" stick on convex mirror.

Stuck one on the passenger side too !! Got rid of that huge blind spot on the right side you could loose a full size truck in !!

Best 8 bucks I've spent in a long time !!5c3123905e9c3_ConvexMirror.thumb.jpg.c44cb9f32787fe3d0b30249486cbf28f.jpg

Edited by Enough
  • Like 1
Posted
9 minutes ago, Enough said:

Covered the distorted flush mount factory convex mirror in the driver's mirror with a proper 3" stick on convex mirror.

Stuck one on the passenger side too !! Got rid of that huge blind spot on the right side you could loose a full size truck in !!

Best 8 bucks I've spent in a long time !!5c3123905e9c3_ConvexMirror.thumb.jpg.c44cb9f32787fe3d0b30249486cbf28f.jpg

Looks factory to be honest...does it block off the turn signal?

Posted

I haven't installed the DL3 mirrors yet but it looks like the 3" spot might block the top turn signal LED. When I install the DL3 mirrors if the 3" spot is too big I'll get a smaller spot to keep from blocking the turn signal. 

 

The distortion around the edges of the factory spot made it useless to me.

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