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Posted

First time poster, long time reader. I am looking for some specific info, as I can't seem to find it thru hours of searching and reading. I have a 2016 double cab all terrain, 5.3, 3:42's, factory 20's. I am going with a 2.5" front leveling kit with 2" rear blocks. The front end is a combo of blistering 5100's set at the .75 setting, motofab upper 2" spacers, and diff drop kit. Rear is getting bilsteins, shock extensions, and 2" block kit. I am running the factory 20's with 285/65R20 Nitto Terra Grappler G2's. I haven't started anything as I want to have all the right components and get it done right the first time.

 

My question is - Can I run cognito uca's (ball joint as I am in the northeast) without tire rub? I know I may rub the sway bar. The cognito instructions say "larger tires will not work on factory wheels'". Isn't this one of the reasons for me uca's? Aftermarket wheels run almost the same offset to fit correctly in the 14+ trucks. Do you think the rub would be a lot? Could I possibly run a 1/4" wheel spacer and clear it? Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated. I really don't want to run uniball units, as I live in the salt region. I would like to eliminate the future wear and tear of the upper ball joints, and the possibility of failure.

 

Thank you

Rob

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Posted

Per cognito

 

"In that case, typically no smaller than a 17” wheel…and backspacing allowances can change depending what diameter you plan to run. Most offerings in the aftermarket world will fall between 4.5” and 5.75”. We usually suggest no more than 5” of backspacing on a 9” wide wheel."

 

Also, why not just purchase longer shocks? Shock extensions aren't ideal.

 

 

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Posted

At what point of the front end lift do you need to upgrade the UCA'S. I too plan to lift the front of my truck with Bilstein's at max height with 1/2" top spacer (should come out to 2.25 front lift)...Then add an additional 1.5 height in the rear for level towing.

 

 

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Posted

Anything above 2 inches. If you plan on using your truck more than just on the street I would recommend it on any sort of level 2 inches or less as well.

 

 

 

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Posted

Per cognito

 

"In that case, typically no smaller than a 17” wheel…and backspacing allowances can change depending what diameter you plan to run. Most offerings in the aftermarket world will fall between 4.5” and 5.75”. We usually suggest no more than 5” of backspacing on a 9” wide wheel."

 

Also, why not just purchase longer shocks? Shock extensions aren't ideal.

 

 

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Can anyone shine any light on the factory backspacing/offset of the 20's? Do you think I will clear any rubbing issue seeing I am larger than the 17" wheel?

 

I purchased the front and rear bilsteins for my previous 14 Silverado and planned on pulling out the lowering kit and going to a leveled truck. I sold the truck so I have had the shocks for about 6 months. I really didnt want to purchase new rears. I am only going up one inch in the rear, so I may not even need them at all.

 

Thank you for your help

Posted

I was told by cognito that you shouldn't have any problems until you get wider than 11.50 on a factory wheel. Any more than that there might be some slight rub on the control arm.

Posted

I was told by cognito that you shouldn't have any problems until you get wider than 11.50 on a factory wheel. Any more than that there might be some slight rub on the control arm.

 

Excellent, I am wondering if running a 1" Bora Spacer would help the as well?

Posted

I honestly think you will not need it. The guy at cognito said he ran an 11.50 tire and never had any issues with rubbing on their control arms. I plan on running the same set up as you except with the 35x11.5 ridge grapplers. I actually have everything except the control arms and tires. Just bought a house so recouping some funds right now but I hope to get it all together soon. I was told I should be fine with that setup and if anything a .25" spacer may be needed but unlikely.

Posted

I honestly think you will not need it. The guy at cognito said he ran an 11.50 tire and never had any issues with rubbing on their control arms. I plan on running the same set up as you except with the 35x11.5 ridge grapplers. I actually have everything except the control arms and tires. Just bought a house so recouping some funds right now but I hope to get it all together soon. I was told I should be fine with that setup and if anything a .25" spacer may be needed but unlikely.

 

 

Excellent, thank you sir!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Just an FYI, the factory 20" all terrain rims are contacting the front of the UCA's when turning at 80%. Full lock? Forget about it. Stock tires are clearing, but the rim is grinding the arm. I will get pics. Now I'm screwed

Posted

Just an FYI, the factory 20" all terrain rims are contacting the front of the UCA's when turning at 80%. Full lock? Forget about it. Stock tires are clearing, but the rim is grinding the arm. I will get pics. Now I'm screwed

0f7e50fd056a09dc6c8d5aa3c9fb4992.jpge44c8895972328bc5badea4ef7f351b4.jpgd60965b676470de66faeb5f430d3a4d4.jpg

 

 

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Posted

0f7e50fd056a09dc6c8d5aa3c9fb4992.jpge44c8895972328bc5badea4ef7f351b4.jpgd60965b676470de66faeb5f430d3a4d4.jpg

 

 

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That's a factory 20? Did you take the picture while the truck was on a jack?

 

 

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Posted

That's a factory 20? Did you take the picture while the truck was on a jack?

 

 

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Factory 20, pictures on the ground as it sits in the other picture. This sucks

 

 

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Posted

Factory 20, pictures on the ground as it sits in the other picture. This sucks

 

 

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Have any other pictures? A top and front shot perhaps

 

 

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