Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 6/9/2022 at 3:11 PM, 2015 High Miler said:

2015 SLT CC 231,****** miles  on 3rd trans. engine has been really good though, except for I have an exhaust smell in my cabin.  dealer that did the 1st trans swap says it was cracked manifold and/or gasket. I put headers on and have had it smoke tested and still have the smell at idle. Liked the truck so much I bought a 2019 2500HD with 66,000 miles on it.  Aside form the trans issue, it has been stellar. Even the interior has help up well. knock on wood....

trucks 2.jpg

6.2 or 5.3? 6 speed or 8 speed?

  • 1 month later...
Posted

2014 5.3 4x4, 6 speed, crew cab, 6.5' (standard bed), 2.5" level installed around 65k

 

275550 as of today.

 

2 A/C condensers

on 3rd transmission (factory went at 120kish, replacement went out 94k later was replaced under warranty) on the warranty trans now with approx 65-70k on it.

front rotors and pads changed 2 times.

rear rotors and pads changed 1 time

2 starters replaced

plugs and wires replaced at 180k

 

only mods has been 2.5" level to front only (no rear blocks)

K&N air filter around 140k

 

Currently have (and been there for over a year)  ABS, Traction Control dummy light

 

Was looking hard at trading truck back in late 19 early 20 but just didn't find the right truck at the time.  In a way I wish I had found the truck as I'd have gotten a decent deal and in a way I'm glad I didn't as I'd be 50k in debt to a damn truck where as now I owe nothing on a truck.

 

 

Posted
7 hours ago, bullet225ho said:

2014 5.3 4x4, 6 speed, crew cab, 6.5' (standard bed), 2.5" level installed around 65k

 

275550 as of today.

 

2 A/C condensers

on 3rd transmission (factory went at 120kish, replacement went out 94k later was replaced under warranty) on the warranty trans now with approx 65-70k on it.

front rotors and pads changed 2 times.

rear rotors and pads changed 1 time

2 starters replaced

plugs and wires replaced at 180k

 

only mods has been 2.5" level to front only (no rear blocks)

K&N air filter around 140k

 

Currently have (and been there for over a year)  ABS, Traction Control dummy light

 

Was looking hard at trading truck back in late 19 early 20 but just didn't find the right truck at the time.  In a way I wish I had found the truck as I'd have gotten a decent deal and in a way I'm glad I didn't as I'd be 50k in debt to a damn truck where as now I owe nothing on a truck.

 

 

How often do you change your oil? What’s your brand? That would probably be useful info especially making it past 150K miles.

Posted

My 2015 was killed JUST SHY of 55K miles, 4 years ago.

 

My 2018 will be turning 45K tomorrow.

  • Like 1
Posted

Has anyone had the 6 speed transmission make it past 120-150 thousand? Seems like most go out around that mileage. I'm at 95,000 starting to get nervous cause I will still be driving it around 120,000 or so.

Posted

Generally speaking a vehicle that’s 6-7 years old should be paid for. Rebuilding a transmission amounts to a couple payments. Nobody likes major expenses. It’s still cheaper than on going payments. Six months ago we put 3K in my wife’s car. It amounted to major maintenance and a starter. We’ve already got our money back versus monthly payments. Most people get a new ride because of want not need. I’ve definitely been guilty of that. 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, 15 Z71 said:

Has anyone had the 6 speed transmission make it past 120-150 thousand? Seems like most go out around that mileage. I'm at 95,000 starting to get nervous cause I will still be driving it around 120,000 or so.

 

159,008 on mine and works perfectly. 

  • Like 4
Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, KARNUT said:

Generally speaking a vehicle that’s 6-7 years old should be paid for. Rebuilding a transmission amounts to a couple payments. Nobody likes major expenses. It’s still cheaper than on going payments. Six months ago we put 3K in my wife’s car. It amounted to major maintenance and a starter. We’ve already got our money back versus monthly payments. Most people get a new ride because of want not need. I’ve definitely been guilty of that. 

 

Sometimes, a PIA is just a PIA.  Last week, my mom's '09 VW Tiguan with EA888 engine (100k miles) tossed its drive belt.  I was planning on replacing the belt and tensioner for her (replacing the belt tensioner on that chassis requires dropping the engine 🤬), but my dad found the AC compressor seized.  The local shop then found the system full of metal.  $3400 later, they have a new AC in a 13 year old car.  Per my recommendation about continuing to throw good money after bad (the car looks and runs like new and is exceptionally maintained, as per me, but every 100k mile German is going to cost $2k/yr in maintenance unless you have the cheat codes), they went down to the local Ford Dealer (we only have Ford and Chrysler dealers in my hometown... I pushed for Chrysler, but they had nothing on the lot of interest) and wrote a check for a loaded Escape on the spot.  I'll sell the VW for them and probably get close to $9; dad's military and veterans discounts got $2k knocked off (which is great today).  They sprung for the extended warranty, so it'll be covered for the next 10 years until they're ready to trade up.  My dad is only 69, but after a lifetime of skinned knuckles, he's not planning on doing head gaskets or turbo replacements after 79.

Edited by 16LT4
  • Like 1
Posted
10 minutes ago, 16LT4 said:

100k mile German is going to cost $2k/yr in maintenance

 

So $167 per month?

What can I buy for $167 a month?

Yea....I'd be keeping it.

Just say'n

:P 

Posted
55 minutes ago, 16LT4 said:

 

Sometimes, a PIA is just a PIA.  Last week, my mom's '09 VW Tiguan with EA888 engine (100k miles) toss its drive belt.  I was planning on replacing the belt and tensioner for her (replacing the tensioner required dropping the engine), but my dad did found the AC compressor seized.  The local shop found the system full of metal.  $3400 later, they have a new AC in a 13 year old car.  Per my recommendation about continuing to throw good money after bad (the car looks and runs like new and is exceptionally maintained, as per me, but every 100k mile German is going to cost $2k/yr in maintenance unless you have the cheat codes), they went down to the local Ford Dealer (we only have Ford and Chrysler dealers in my hometown... I pushed for Chrysler, but they had nothing on the lot of interest) and wrote a check for a loaded Escape on the spot.  I'll sell the VW for them and probably get close to $9; dad's military and veterans discounts got $2k knocked off (which is great today), so the car is a few retirement checks after the fact.  They sprung for the extended warranty, so it'll be covered for the next 10 years until they're ready to trade up.  My dad is only 69, but after a lifetime of skinned knuckles, he's not planning on doing head gaskets or turbo replacements after 79.

My wife’s Genesis had a 10-100K bumper to bumper. It’s been paid for 7 years and still looks almost new. The right color helps. So dropping 3K at 120k miles was a no brainer. My 02 Avalanche cost me 6700$ ttl. So far 200$ for AC work. I had it 2 1/2 years. Liking a vehicle plays a role. As does pride in your vehicle. The only way I’d buy a new vehicle is if I can get a warranty equal to the Hyundai warranty. I’m not going to be in the market for awhile. I’m too used to deals. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

So $167 per month?

What can I buy for $167 a month?

Yea....I'd be keeping it.

Just say'n

:P 

 

Headaches, breakdowns and time lost cost far more than that.  On that car, there isn't a separate AC belt, so the car was undriveable without the belt.  U-haul to the rescue to get it to the local Euro Indy!  Dad had to replace the clutch on his 170k mile '91 Maxima last summer, and is about reaching his limit of wanting to save money, lift a finger to perform any repairs, or patience.  They got about $3k off in rebates/discounts.  The local dealers don't require appointments to drop off vehicles if you're a local, which was a huge selling point: pull in, drop it off, hop in any vehicle on the lot as a loaner, and come back when it's done.  Locals (especially those with roots) take priority. 🙃  Their brand new car is paid off, so in that regard, it costs $0/month.

 

 

IMG_0043.jpg

Edited by 16LT4
  • Like 2
Posted
2 hours ago, 16LT4 said:

 

Headaches, breakdowns and time lost cost far more than that.  On that car, there isn't a separate AC belt, so the car was undriveable without the belt.  U-haul to the rescue to get it to the local Euro Indy!  Dad had to replace the clutch on his 170k mile '91 Maxima last summer, and is about reaching his limit of wanting to save money, lift a finger to perform any repairs, or patience.  They got about $3k off in rebates/discounts.  The local dealers don't require appointments to drop off vehicles if you're a local, which was a huge selling point: pull in, drop it off, hop in any vehicle on the lot as a loaner, and come back when it's done.  Locals (especially those with roots) take priority. 🙃  Their brand new car is paid off, so in that regard, it costs $0/month.

 

 

IMG_0043.jpg

My ex learned the hard way about the 2.0L Turbo VW Tiguan after  plenty  of warnings....... Had a 2011 GTI with same APR'd up engine with no problems.....Daughter drove it to 150,000 before trading for a GS vette. 

 

EV's will stop alot of this nickel and dime crap. Fewer moving things to break. Average consumer will embrace it and I predict drive in and out service of batteries etc when the heavy hitters need replaced. 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/18/2022 at 10:28 PM, Ravenkeeper said:

My 2015 was killed JUST SHY of 55K miles, 4 years ago.

 

My 2018 will be turning 45K tomorrow.

Ok, misread odometer, it just turned 44K last night on the way home from work, after I filled up.  These were taken after I got to work this afternoon.

Current Miles.jpg

Current HRs v Miles.jpg

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 460 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...