Safety Chain Hookup

[FreeAmerican]

FYI, those hooks are too small as well...my RV came with those, and I had to swap out with regular chain hooks because they wouldn't fit the receiver holes.

 

I think those s-hook are meant to pass through the holes in the receiver and then hook back onto the chain, but mine didn't have enough chain to do that either.

 

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I don't think they are meant to pass through, mine won't. I have to hook the big end of the S through the hole in the hitch.

[sdeeter19555]

On the 2.5" receiver, mine would pass but not enough to loop back and leave slack for turning.

 

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[Mike Hamm]

I did what the others stated, changed the hooks out for ones that fit right...

 

Can you provide a link to the hooks you ended up getting? Based on what you have said about other suggestions, your hooks must meet all your criteria so I'd be interested in checking out the same ones you got.

Thanks.

[sdeeter19555]

Can you provide a link to the hooks you ended up getting? Based on what you have said about other suggestions, your hooks must meet all your criteria so I'd be interested in checking out the same ones you got.

Thanks.

I replaced the factory s-hook with a grade 70 chain hook with safety catch that fit my receiver.

 

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[sdeeter19555]

This is my utility trailer, not my camper; but it will give you the idea...and the 2.5" receiver on my truck, which those hooks fit perfectly.

 

I've installed chain hooks on every trailer I own because they are easier to use and work better.

 

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[Mike Hamm]

Thanks for the pics and hook info. I can see why your setup works easily. The holes in your hitch are way bigger than on mine. That's been the trick. Finding something small enough, yet strong enough, to fit.

[Chevor]

Here is a 13. Up and out. Not sure if new hitch is any different.

[Mike Hamm]

Here is a 13. Up and out. Not sure if new hitch is any different.

Yup, very different. The "up" holes (in your pic) in the 16 are about the diameter of a pencil. The holes on either side of the receiver are also smaller.

Believe me, if it had been as simple as your pic makes it look, I wouldn't be asking for ideas.

[SouthpawHD]

I used two 5/8" quick links from Tulsa Chain, rated for 8,100 pounds each. I then attached an eye bolt through the bottom of the hitch to hook up the safety brake cable (this idea was from forum member jhplak325).

[Mike Hamm]

I used two 5/8" quick links from Tulsa Chain, rated for 8,100 pounds each. I then attached an eye bolt through the bottom of the hitch to hook up the safety brake cable (this idea was from forum member jhplak325).

Yeah, it looks like I'll be going with the 5/8" links too. The eyebolt is an interesting idea for the brake cable. Does the safety cable just slide through the slight open end of the eyebolt?

Edited May 1, 2017 by Mike Hamm

[SouthpawHD]

Yeah, it looks like I'll be going with the 5/8" links too. The eyebolt is an interesting idea for the brake cable. Does the safety cable just slide through the slight open end of the eyebolt?

My safety brake cable has a snap link on it, so I just attach it to the eyebolt.

 

Ideally I think the safety cable should be attached to frame somewhere, by I couldn't locate a good spot.

[sk]

My safety brake cable has a snap link on it, so I just attach it to the eyebolt.

 

Ideally I think the safety cable should be attached to frame somewhere, by I couldn't locate a good spot.

 

This. You actually shouldn't attach your breakaway cable to the same spot as your safety chains. I have seen receiver hitches come off the truck frame completely. When that happens if your breakaway cable is attached to the hitch then the cable will never pull and your emergency brakes will not activate. The trailer will actually just float away with the hitch and receiver still attached to the ball.

[SouthpawHD]

This. You actually shouldn't attach your breakaway cable to the same spot as your safety chains. I have seen receiver hitches come off the truck frame completely. When that happens if your breakaway cable is attached to the hitch then the cable will never pull and your emergency brakes will not activate. The trailer will actually just float away with the hitch and receiver still attached to the ball.

Right. But until GM actually thinks through that these trucks do some towing, there aren't too many options.

 

Now that being said, these hitches are part of the frame and the chances of them falling off are rather slim. And even if they did, the safety brake cable only needs a little tension to be set off. And the slightest dragging on the road might just be enough in most cases.

Edited May 3, 2017 by SouthpawHD

[sdeeter19555]

Not to mention if the receiver separates from tow vehicle, you probably have worse things to worry about at that point in time...

 

I've only heard of it twice, once was a uhaul-installed hitch with brass bolts (to prevent corrosion of course), and the other was a 2nd gen Dodge that had a metal fatigue failure from being overloaded all its life (rip parts of the frame off too). In all my years following the diesel forums, those are the only two hitch-related failures I can remember.

 

I worry more about someone tampering with my setup...stopped at a rest area, some teenage kids were hanging behind a SUV when I pulled in. I ALWAYS do a walk around before I start back down the road...the jerks had pulled the spring clip from the hitch pin so that it would fall out later down the road.

 

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[Mike Hamm]

Got my new quick links installed. I think I'm going to like this better than the other setup.

Trailer is at the dealer for some warranty work so I'll be giving these a try when going to pick it up.