Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

FYI, those hooks are too small as well...my RV came with those, and I had to swap out with regular chain hooks because they wouldn't fit the receiver holes.

 

I think those s-hook are meant to pass through the holes in the receiver and then hook back onto the chain, but mine didn't have enough chain to do that either.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

I don't think they are meant to pass through, mine won't. I have to hook the big end of the S through the hole in the hitch.

Posted

On the 2.5" receiver, mine would pass but not enough to loop back and leave slack for turning.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

I did what the others stated, changed the hooks out for ones that fit right...

 

Can you provide a link to the hooks you ended up getting? Based on what you have said about other suggestions, your hooks must meet all your criteria so I'd be interested in checking out the same ones you got.

Thanks.

Posted

Can you provide a link to the hooks you ended up getting? Based on what you have said about other suggestions, your hooks must meet all your criteria so I'd be interested in checking out the same ones you got.

Thanks.

I replaced the factory s-hook with a grade 70 chain hook with safety catch that fit my receiver.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

This is my utility trailer, not my camper; but it will give you the idea...and the 2.5" receiver on my truck, which those hooks fit perfectly.

 

I've installed chain hooks on every trailer I own because they are easier to use and work better.16d39cecc36758b6ba48c6a6205eae48.jpgad38b4483d51ada525f700cc1111bd8b.jpg

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

Thanks for the pics and hook info. I can see why your setup works easily. The holes in your hitch are way bigger than on mine. That's been the trick. Finding something small enough, yet strong enough, to fit.

Posted

Here is a 13. Up and out. Not sure if new hitch is any different.

20170429_081619-1_zpsi6foxicu.jpg

Posted

Here is a 13. Up and out. Not sure if new hitch is any different.

Yup, very different. The "up" holes (in your pic) in the 16 are about the diameter of a pencil. The holes on either side of the receiver are also smaller.

Believe me, if it had been as simple as your pic makes it look, I wouldn't be asking for ideas.

Posted

I used two 5/8" quick links from Tulsa Chain, rated for 8,100 pounds each. I then attached an eye bolt through the bottom of the hitch to hook up the safety brake cable (this idea was from forum member jhplak325).

post-140744-0-62030000-1493650747_thumb.jpg

post-140744-0-62030000-1493650747_thumb.jpg

post-140744-0-62030000-1493650747_thumb.jpg

post-140744-0-62030000-1493650747_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I used two 5/8" quick links from Tulsa Chain, rated for 8,100 pounds each. I then attached an eye bolt through the bottom of the hitch to hook up the safety brake cable (this idea was from forum member jhplak325).

Yeah, it looks like I'll be going with the 5/8" links too. The eyebolt is an interesting idea for the brake cable. Does the safety cable just slide through the slight open end of the eyebolt?

Edited by Mike Hamm
Posted

Yeah, it looks like I'll be going with the 5/8" links too. The eyebolt is an interesting idea for the brake cable. Does the safety cable just slide through the slight open end of the eyebolt?

My safety brake cable has a snap link on it, so I just attach it to the eyebolt.

 

Ideally I think the safety cable should be attached to frame somewhere, by I couldn't locate a good spot.

Posted

My safety brake cable has a snap link on it, so I just attach it to the eyebolt.

 

Ideally I think the safety cable should be attached to frame somewhere, by I couldn't locate a good spot.

 

This. You actually shouldn't attach your breakaway cable to the same spot as your safety chains. I have seen receiver hitches come off the truck frame completely. When that happens if your breakaway cable is attached to the hitch then the cable will never pull and your emergency brakes will not activate. The trailer will actually just float away with the hitch and receiver still attached to the ball.

Posted (edited)

This. You actually shouldn't attach your breakaway cable to the same spot as your safety chains. I have seen receiver hitches come off the truck frame completely. When that happens if your breakaway cable is attached to the hitch then the cable will never pull and your emergency brakes will not activate. The trailer will actually just float away with the hitch and receiver still attached to the ball.

Right. But until GM actually thinks through that these trucks do some towing, there aren't too many options.

 

Now that being said, these hitches are part of the frame and the chances of them falling off are rather slim. And even if they did, the safety brake cable only needs a little tension to be set off. And the slightest dragging on the road might just be enough in most cases.

Edited by SouthpawHD
Posted

Not to mention if the receiver separates from tow vehicle, you probably have worse things to worry about at that point in time...

 

I've only heard of it twice, once was a uhaul-installed hitch with brass bolts (to prevent corrosion of course), and the other was a 2nd gen Dodge that had a metal fatigue failure from being overloaded all its life (rip parts of the frame off too). In all my years following the diesel forums, those are the only two hitch-related failures I can remember.

 

I worry more about someone tampering with my setup...stopped at a rest area, some teenage kids were hanging behind a SUV when I pulled in. I ALWAYS do a walk around before I start back down the road...the jerks had pulled the spring clip from the hitch pin so that it would fall out later down the road.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

Got my new quick links installed. I think I'm going to like this better than the other setup.

Trailer is at the dealer for some warranty work so I'll be giving these a try when going to pick it up.

post-156314-0-50789200-1494279258_thumb.jpg

post-156314-0-50789200-1494279258_thumb.jpg

post-156314-0-50789200-1494279258_thumb.jpg

post-156314-0-50789200-1494279258_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
    • This landing is worse than most. Patchy blacktop with washouts, soft gravel/sand at bottom that washes out with every heavy rain. I tell everyone to put it in 4WD. A lot of them think they can pull out their trailer in 2WD. They end up digging a hole and then putting it in 4WD.  The lake is a pristine lake and has a lot of money on it. There are several wake boats and lot of large tritoons. The people with the money don't want it improved because they don't want more traffic.    Boat Landing 1.jfif Boat Landing 2.jfif Boat Landing 3.jfif
    • How wide are your rims?   Toyo specs 8.5-10.0-11.0 inches. My thought would be rim might be pulling the tire inwards creating a center that is more pronounced.    I also noticed that the spec sheet says max 65psi. So you could be right lowering the pressure to ~40 psi. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...