Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I drove my 96 Chevy k1500 with the 350 vortec over a train track like any normal day and all of a sudden my truck is shaking real bad. I managed to get it to a friends garage nearby but I couldn't accelerate. It would only coast. It was running really lean and would fall flat on its face when i gave it gas. It had low fuel pressure so changed the fuel pump and fuel filter. It drives a lot better now but it still starts to fall flat when I try to accelerate too much. I still can't figure out why it won't accelerate.

So far I've replaced my...

Fuel pump

Fuel filter

Idle air control valve

Elbow tube on the pvc

Breather tube grommet

Spark plugs and wires

I put a new mass air flow sensor on it and that only made it drive worse.

What else could it be?

Posted

Do you notice a strong smell of gas when idling, or burning black smoke? Sorry, I know you said it was running lean, but mine was doing a very similar thing but it was running rich.

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Posted

When I first bought the truck back in November, I could smell gas back towards the gas tank but now I cant smell anything. I've been crawling under the truck for the past 4 days now and haven't smelled any gas. I checked the fuel pressure from the fuel pump to the fuel filter. the pressure was good but I haven't checked anything past that. The truck drives fine now that I have replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter but as soon as a try to really accelerate, it loses power and falls on its face. I put on a new mass air flow sensor which actually made it drive worse. What I think this means is that my old mass air flow sensor does need replaced but the lack of fuel is still to great to allow the new mass air flow sensor to improve the truck.

Posted

I haven't yet because of time and effort. I work 50 hour weeks and just haven't had time. I have thought of the injectors but another reason I haven't checked them is because I wouldn't expect driving over a railroad track would cause them to fail. it very well could be them but I haven't had time to check them or get them checked.

Posted

I understand that. Stupid work getting in the way of free time... if not that, the only other think I can think of is maybe the coolant temp sensor? I know you said it's running lean, but mine did the exact same thing when I would accelerate (it also gave me problems just idling) but the sensor was telling the computer to dump to much fuel in. I don't wanna insult you or anything, but the intake is clean huh? Like, no blockage or anything small like that ?

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Posted

It's clean as a whistle. I have considered changing the fuel pressure regulator, but I don't know much about them.

Posted

There Is a plug directly above the oil filter that is missing on my truck, do you know what plug that is?

Posted

tracks are lit.

but these trucks are great at anti-reverse (like hooking jumper cables backwards- the truck will keep running)

 

I'd pour over gadgetry, if no codes.

map sensor is another gadget.

there is also a knock sensor.

 

 

I found after modernizing and fixing the ever lasting 96 vortec.. fuel for the 305 is 16mpg...and a lot more power than factory.

I'd keep going until mpg was 12-14 on the 350.

 

A common spot to get attacked backwards (ground up) the grounds in the back by tail lamps, licnese plate light, trailer wires, electric brake..

I had to scrap all of the oem setup for LED.

Posted

If you are not getting the check engine light (which typically would indicate an injector misfire), then I'd suspect the MAP sensor. It is located on the upper plastic intake manifold next to the ignition coil. For some reason, the ECM does not set a code if this is faulty. I replaced mine and it ran like a bat out of hell afterwards.

 

Word to the wise, if you remove the MAP sensor, make sure you pull it straight up and out. Don't try and pry it out with a screwdriver as I did once. It broke off and fell down into the manifold. That was a nice six hour job.

 

Have you considered upgrading to the MFI fuel injection system. The CSFI fuel injection system caused a lot of heartache and misery as the poppet valves would clog up which would lead to a misfire condition.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...