Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I did not want to be the first to post in this section, however here I am. I took my truck to get an xpel and ceramic coat quote and lone and behold we found some paint defects. The worst being the hood. It looks like there was either dirt in the paint, a run or both on the front of the hood. Second is multiple areas where the bed liner material was over sprayed onto the bed side. 

 

I dropped it it off to the dealer yesterday, the entire hood is being repainted and the bed liner material is being removed. 

 

Having the hood hood repainted one week after ownership isn’t exactly ideal, but may be a blessing. The factory clear coat is now water based, which is soft. There is a good chance that the repainted hood will have a harder finish. 

Posted
I did not want to be the first to post in this section, however here I am. I took my truck to get an xpel and ceramic coat quote and lone and behold we found some paint defects. The worst being the hood. It looks like there was either dirt in the paint, a run or both on the front of the hood. Second is multiple areas where the bed liner material was over sprayed onto the bed side. 
 
I dropped it it off to the dealer yesterday, the entire hood is being repainted and the bed liner material is being removed. 
 
Having the hood hood repainted one week after ownership isn’t exactly ideal, but may be a blessing. The factory clear coat is now water based, which is soft. There is a good chance that the repainted hood will have a harder finish. 

Any pictures of the bed liner problem?
How the heck do they remove the spray in bed liner?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Sorry for your troubles CJ.  Hope they match the paint well on your Trail Boss.

As for removing spray liner overspray a clay bar may do the job if not too thick.  Otherwise one could use gasoline on a cloth to lightly rub out the material.

Either way it will be necessary to apply a paint sealant or wax afterwards.

Posted
8 hours ago, Loco Diablo said:


Any pictures of the bed liner problem?
How the heck do they remove the spray in bed liner?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t have pics but fortunately the bed liner doesn’t stick well to an un-prepped area. It comes off pretty easy. 

Posted (edited)
On 8/19/2018 at 11:55 AM, Cmillerjr said:

I did not want to be the first to post in this section, however here I am. I took my truck to get an xpel and ceramic coat quote and lone and behold we found some paint defects. The worst being the hood. It looks like there was either dirt in the paint, a run or both on the front of the hood. Second is multiple areas where the bed liner material was over sprayed onto the bed side. 

 

I dropped it it off to the dealer yesterday, the entire hood is being repainted and the bed liner material is being removed. 

 

Having the hood hood repainted one week after ownership isn’t exactly ideal, but may be a blessing. The factory clear coat is now water based, which is soft. There is a good chance that the repainted hood will have a harder finish. 

Factory paint has been water based since at least 2005 ish +/-, you can thank Democrat tree huggers / the EPA but, we probably saved some endangered gnats or horse flies by making the switch to water based, it's better than it was when it first came out... The paint they use to repair will be the same stuff used at the factory....

Edited by Imcrazy
Posted
On 8/20/2018 at 7:15 PM, Sierra Dan said:

Water based clear coat?

Sheesh..... is that durable?

 

It's much better now than it was when they switched in the mid 2000's... I had an 08 Civic that was pathetic...

  • Like 1
Posted
11 minutes ago, Imcrazy said:

Factory paint has been water based since at least 2005 ish +/-, you can thank Democrat tree huggers / the EPA but, we probably saved some endangered gnats or horse flies by making the switch to water based, it's better than it was when it first came out... The paint they use to repair will be the same stuff used at the factory....

Yep, they are using PPG Waterborne clear coat. 

Posted
On 8/20/2018 at 6:15 PM, Sierra Dan said:

Water based clear coat?

Sheesh..... is that durable?

 

No it’s not, especially with black. Ceramic coating really makes a difference though. It adds a level of hardness that the clear coat lacks. 

Posted (edited)
On 8/22/2018 at 12:55 PM, woyster_00z71 said:

Which ceramic coating are you going with?

cQuartz Professional, by car Pro. I’m having the Xpel PPF installed on the hood and bumper as well. 

Edited by Cmillerjr
Posted

The paint defect/hood saga continues. The sent the truck out to have the hood painted and the end product didn’t go very well. Rather than send it out again my dealer is going to pull a hood off of one of the three black trucks in stock. 

 

This is where it gets interesting. Each of the black trucks seem to have a blem on the drivers side front of the hood. Almost like where the hood was hung when it was sprayed at the factory. None of the other colors on the lot have this blem, just the black. 

 

There is one of the three that the blem is minimal and isn’t visible. I was there after hours so I haven’t brought this finding to the dealerships attention yet. I’m courious to how this will play out. 

Posted

Man Chuck...

Im sorry to hear about your troubles and hope you have resolution soon!

There have been others who special ordered new 2019 trucks and they were pulled for QC

issues. The new RAMS have also had several QC problems.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...