Jump to content

Rear window leak

Demon
 Share

Recommended Posts

ShamrockShooter Senior Enthusiast

ShamrockShooter

Posted
Posted

Made it one day on the new window with no leaks. Soaked it down with the hose last night still dry this morning inside

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  • Replies 3.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Rocz3cqg
Rocz3cqg

Sliding Glass or / and Stop Light Module reported Leaking Situation             Contacts

ShamrockShooter
ShamrockShooter

Well my 2019 early build leaker was replaced with 2020 hopefully not leaker. No signs of an leaks on the window or headliner of the 2020 so fingers crossed. Very impressed with the 10 speed after th

Thomcat
Thomcat

No leaker here so can't do a 100% verification, but the problem seems to be with the spoiler design, regardless of weather the sealer leaks or not, and any cracks in the trim make it worse.  

Posted Images

Centrebaseball Enthusiast

Centrebaseball

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, ShamrockShooter said:

Made it one day on the new window with no leaks. Soaked it down with the hose last night still dry this morning inside

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
 

Getting mine back today from the dealer as well. New window installed yesterday. They said there was also a cracked grommet (some hard plastic piece) under the rear spoiler that they replaced as well, as that could have also been a cause for the leak. So, I think there is something to be said about the rear spoiler design having issues with letting water in the cab (in some instances - not all).

 

I look forward to daily ShamrockShooter all ok updates! :)

 

 

Jamie73 Enthusiast

Jamie73

Posted
Posted

My rear window was ordered on Dec 30, talked to my service guy today and he was doing some research on it, looks like may be next week it will be here. I asked him what he thought the hold up was and said he did not know. The last time I asked him that, he said it was because of the holidays. I just laughed and told him, maybe GM is having to replace a bunch of windows, he had no response to that. Funny, you would think they would admit there is a issue.

6.2TB Enthusiast

6.2TB

Posted
Posted

My truck is scheduled for delivery in the next few days.  After reading through this leak issue thread (and being very concerned) I have a couple of questions:

 

Is every truck having leaking issues?

Are leaks occurring on trucks, regardless of build location?

Centrebaseball Enthusiast

Centrebaseball

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, 6.2TB said:

 

 

Is every truck having leaking issues? - to be determined - certainly not all, but a significant minority are leaking

 

Are leaks occurring on trucks, regardless of build location? - yes

Rocz3cqg Enthusiast

Rocz3cqg

Posted
Posted
50 minutes ago, 6.2TB said:

My truck is scheduled for delivery in the next few days.  After reading through this leak issue thread (and being very concerned) I have a couple of questions:

 

Is every truck having leaking issues?

Are leaks occurring on trucks, regardless of build location?

As Centrebaseball says, build location does not matter. Is every truck leaking? At this moment, I'd say anyone receiving a truck with a slider should inspect the inside very well, especially those sitting on the lots for awhile. Mine sat for a month and no indication of leaks until a couple of months later. Also water down the backside and see what happens.

Jamie73 Enthusiast

Jamie73

Posted
Posted

Knowing now, what I could have looked for would have kept me from buying a truck that had been sitting on the lot leaking. Lift the back seats and check for any corrosion on any of the metal parts. Surface rust on the black, back seat brackets. Also rust on your jack.  The first thing I noticed was after I had the truck home for a couple of days. I was looking at the jack assembly to familiarize myself with it and noticed rust on it. I immediately thought has this truck been in a flood. Looking back, I am sure the dealer knew my truck was leaking, it had been sitting on the lot for close to a year. I bet it was stored indoors after they discovered it. It had a very strong new car smell when the salesman drove it up to me to test drive, but that odor went away within a few days, like they had sprayed something in it. just my thoughts. Good luck!

JohnCasey Enthusiast

JohnCasey

Posted
Posted

Well today came and went with no call from my GM Executive customer service rep from Michigan. I’m going to call her tomorrow and see if she’s alright since she didn’t call today and let my dealership know. I’m fed up at this point and I also noticed rust on the hardware on the underside of my flip up rear seat. 

PtownVdub Enthusiast

PtownVdub

Posted
Posted
15 minutes ago, JohnCasey said:

Well today came and went with no call from my GM Executive customer service rep from Michigan. I’m going to call her tomorrow and see if she’s alright since she didn’t call today and let my dealership know. I’m fed up at this point and I also noticed rust on the hardware on the underside of my flip up rear seat. 

HI @JohnCasey do you have a picture of the rust that is on the seat hardware? I would like to compare it to what I have going on since the dealer keeps telling me that the corrosion is not a problem. Thank you!

JohnCasey Enthusiast

JohnCasey

Posted
Posted

I don’t have a picture. Today is trump day(45 days at the dealership).  To everyone else I’m have a friend with a 2015 that I had take a picture of his rear window. He has e same window in his 2015 that we have leaking in our 2019-20

  • Like 1
Jamie73 Enthusiast

Jamie73

Posted
Posted

@PtownVdub, I posted several pictures a few days ago of the underside of my rear seats. Easy to tell. Flip the seats up and take a look.

SilveradoRST Enthusiast

SilveradoRST

Posted
Posted

I was always under the impression that painted metal parts wouldn’t rust as easily unless there are chips or exposed metal to water.  Hence, there is always talk about how GM should have painted frames instead of the wax coating to better protect it from corrosion.  I get paint isn’t going to be a permanent corrosion inhibitor but that rust seems to be a bit more rust than I would expect for painted parts on a new truck.  

PtownVdub Enthusiast

PtownVdub

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Jamie73 said:

@PtownVdub, I posted several pictures a few days ago of the underside of my rear seats. Easy to tell. Flip the seats up and take a look.

Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • PunchT37
      Would this CV Shaft be bad?

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
    • anthony2558
      Would this CV Shaft be bad?

      By anthony2558 · Posted

      Would this be normal or a worn CV Shaft? 51K miles 3.5" lift? Boots are intact and no visible leaks showing. Attached is a the video I took. Thanks     https://youtu.be/ZnW7PPRmjJY?feature=shared    
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...