Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

image.png.af4fa6f7eca0945d819713118f0c8f28.png

 

Out of curiosity I charted the number of pages of posts by month to see if a trend is forming.  My leaks were all after washing, not rain because I'm in California.  But still not exactly scientific because obviously leaks are gonna be noticed more in the wet months so impossible to say it's temperature related... Still interesting.  We'll see if there is another massive spike in Jan/Feb.

  • Like 5
Posted
2 hours ago, n8huntsman said:

My second window failed after exactly one year, to the day.  I noticed after washing it both times.  This time was shortly after our first frost.  Thermal cycling maybe?  Took about 9 days to replace with another new window.  I took it to a different dealer this time.  They did a much better job but unfortunately the damage had already been done by the first dealer.  However, as soon as I opened the door I immediately heard the sound of the pressure equalization flapper valve between the cap and bed.  Took a peak in there and guess what!  It was dislodged again lying between the bed and cab just like last time.  Took them over a month to get the part last time and a week to install it.  This time they ordered the part in about a week and we'll see how long the install takes.  They have to remove the bed to get to it apparently.  I've got a case open with GM waiting to see if theyll do a buy back.  I had the caulk job done, and now two windows so that should count as 3 repairs for the same issue.  If they don't do something to satisfy me I'll investigate the lemon law route because I have zero faith that this new window wont be leaking come next November.

Can someone from GM just please read this, this is too common with this attempted repair, and why people are frustrated!

  • Like 1
Posted
Doesn't the lemon law only go for the 1st year of ownership?
Depends on the state. Some allow for duration of warranty.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
Posted
Can someone from GM just please read this, this is too common with this attempted repair, and why people are frustrated!
I have a simple fix for the bulk of GM's problems. They need to stop telling suppliers to "sharpen your pencils". I knew a guy who was a GM supplier. He gave them the best price for the best parts that he could provide. He got fed up with GM coming back to him every time he submitted a competitive bid, being told "sharpen your pencil". Last I heard he became a beta tester with HPTuners, started doing work for other companies, and started working with some NASCAR teams for electronic tuning when the cars jumped over to EFI. To him, "sharpen your pencils" was another way of saying, "use inferior products". Look at what it has done to GM over the decades. GM isn't alone with this problem. "Saticficing" seems to be a business term GM hasn't figured out yet.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

Well I picked up my truck from a detailer and he told me my rear window leaked a little. Scheduled for the dealership to see it Friday. After reading this thread I’m not super excited about all this.  It’s a 2020 1500 RST crew cab that I got in January.  Really enjoy the truck but not thrilled about a possible repeating issue like this happening. Wish me luck. 

Posted (edited)

2019 Silverado 1500 LTZ (Black Ops edition by Tuscany). 

Not sure how to check when it was built but according to my VIN it was in Mexico.  I cant seem to find the date on the door.  

 

I joined the leaky rear window club yesterday morning.  Well probably before then since I had weird moisture building up on the interior of the cab and for some reason my windows just kept getting fogged up so easily.  Driver side is leaking pretty good, passenger side is a couple drips. 

I called the dealership and I'm scheduled for Dec 18th and they wont let me have a loaner.  They want to charge me $35 a day to get a rental car through them.  I opened a case with GM already.

 

After reading about 120 of the 173 pages here, I'm tempted to do the silicone fix since I'm pretty good with shipboard electronics and use the marine stuff already.  I'm just not too familiar with cars/truck maintenance repairs if its not an oil change or tire change.  I'd also have to rent a dry space/garage since my truck doesn't fit in mine. 

 

I'm really concerned with water getting in and since its freezing at night here in Washington it will just cause further damage.  Which I suspect is what triggered the water to be large enough for me to see it now.  I've got a waterproof truck cover on its way but its going to be a huge hassle taking that off and on if I want to drive the truck and now on rainy days I need to leave it covered at home.  I feel extremely robbed of the new car/truck experience from GM.  I really wish there was a recall and permanent fix from GM already.  I love the truck even though this will be the second time in the shop(a front left shaft broke already, J, F, or S, I don't remember but I still have the paperwork).  I've owned the truck for 4 months and its spent 1/5th of its time at the dealership and with this it will only extend the time spent away from me.  

 

 

Edit 1, Dec 3rd:  Changed dealerships to fix my truck.  Going 30mins further to the next chevy dealership since the tech I talked with knew exactly what my problem was and said he just fixed one two weeks ago and I'm having the exact symptoms.  Still they don't have a loaner vehicle either... its a Chevy Equinox for $35 a day.....  

Edited by jason1derful
Posted

I'd go to a different dealership. I did not buy my truck from the dealership that I have handle my warranty issues and they have no problem giving me a loaner (car) for as long as I need.

Posted
38 minutes ago, Jac365 said:

I'd go to a different dealership. I did not buy my truck from the dealership that I have handle my warranty issues and they have no problem giving me a loaner (car) for as long as I need.

X2

Posted
On 11/28/2020 at 10:24 PM, RadBrad said:

This would be great news if indeed there is a new design for that back window that has a more robust frame.  I think that just might help mitigate some of these leakers.  

I might be able to tell you soon. Mine is going in for new window tomorrow. I’ll see if I can get the part number off it or any other info from them. Hoping they don’t mess up my truck putting it in...

 

Posted

Well, update on mine. Went in on Monday for new exhaust, there was a rattle at cold start and they found something broke off inside... and the new window that came in. They fixed the exhaust Monday but didn’t get to the window... then on Tuesday their “window” guy had an emergency and couldn’t get to my truck. Then today I get a call that he removed my old window but when they went to get the new one they saw a hole in the box and then they found a “blemish” on the window frame on the outside portion. They texted me and sent me the pic I’ve attached and said that they don’t think I want that window and I said NO! So now I’m waiting until next Monday for the newest window to arrive! Ugh.... and so it continues.... I just texted my service guy and asked him to look at my old window tomorrow and see if there are any cracks and to send me pics as I’m keeping track of everything for when this new window fails and I have bullets for GMC....

067180FB-3D9E-482B-A172-65BEB8953BAE.jpeg

Posted

Just looked over my paperwork from the window installed last week. It is the new part number 84944319. The frame might be a bit thicker but without measuring the old one with a caliper I can't be sure. If anyone measures theirs I can measure mine too ?

Posted
On 12/2/2020 at 10:18 PM, n8huntsman said:

Just looked over my paperwork from the window installed last week. It is the new part number 84944319. The frame might be a bit thicker but without measuring the old one with a caliper I can't be sure. If anyone measures theirs I can measure mine too ?

 

Can you post a picture of your new glass like this ?

 

 

 

image.thumb.png.5113b10b5a862b982adbf471381eb4ab.png

Posted (edited)
On 12/4/2020 at 2:51 AM, UGADawgs said:

 

Can you post a picture of your new glass like this ?

 

Here are my numbers on the window. Also, the frame measured about .160" from the glass to the plastic frame. 

 

Resized_20201204_122150.jpeg

Resized_20201204_121814.jpeg

Edited by n8huntsman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...